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Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody know of a good shop in Michigan that shortens and changes the brackets on the Ford 9 inch housing? It comes off of a 70 something LTD and I'd like it to be a bolt in to replace the 8.8" just in case my car starts making some real power.

Thanks
 

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Nothing against a 9", but an 8.8 should hold up pretty well with a C4 and convertor. And the 8.8 is lighter. Strange and Moser both make 9" housings to fit a Fox, I am pretty sure. But there are a lot of 9 sec cars running 8.8" housings. I have a 3400 lb stick car that I put 105 runs on in 2002 alone with a best of 1.43 second 60' without a whimper on my 8.8.

Joe
 

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there are a couple of mustangs running 9" rears around here. Its not the durability factor, as the 8.8 is proven well into the low 9's, high 8's. Getting rid of the c-clips in a better design, cheaper parts, and quick-change of rear gears is what makes it sought after.

moser and currie both make nice, <expensive> drop in units if thats what your going for
 

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Brett, sure a 9" is nice. It just isn't always necessary, that's the point I was making.
Joe
 

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and I was in total agreement with you Joe. We've seen shanes car go 9.20's with a beefed up 8.8, and Chads old GT from lubbock went 8.8's with a beefed up 8.8 rearend. Its like Tony's supra.. you buy a much more expensive car (initial investent) and (usually...) its quicker, easier, and sometimes more economical to go quicker in the long run.

I think the perfect drag race rearend would be similiar to this...
start with an 8.8, cut end of axle tubes off and 9" ends welded on, checked for strightness, and welded where they enter the housing. Add a spool, some 35 spline axles, long studs, and a rear end girdle and your set to handle ~1000hp and some 1.2-1.3 sixty foots without concern ;)
 

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91azul_coupe--I guess Brett and I don't know a specific shop in Michigan that can do what you want to do. We're both in Texas, LOL. But we hope you find one if you really want to go that route.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. The thing is - it'll probably going to be cheaper for me to build up the 9" than convert over the 8.8 with c-clip eliminators and a beefer center section. I've been quoted a price of $400 by a friend of a friend to do all the necessary machining and welding (shortening tubes, respining axles, welding correct brackets, etc.) to fit the axle into the car, but that does not include the new ring gear. So about $600 for a rear that'll drop in sounded pretty good to me, I was just looking for second opinions.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Forgot to mention that I already picked up the complete 9" while on vacation in Texas for $50. Guess it is also a reason to leave my 3.73 8.8" alone and build a rearend to my liking.
 

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I'm mini-tubbing my car right now and I bought my 9" housing from Moser. I had them send it to me without the ends installed since I still have to figure out the width. It came with brand new center section mounting hardware as well as hardware for the backing plates too. It's a very high quality piece. It came with brand new 3.25" 1/4" wall axle tubes installed.I paid around $370 for the housing, shipped to my door.
Also, if you need spherical bushings for the upper housing mounts check out UPR. They had them for about $100.

John
 

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Anyone know the stock width of the 8.8" setup from flange to flange? I'm probably going the 9" route as well. Better resale value when I'm done with it.
 
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