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I did try the 1 5 4 , it wouldn't run.
And you are sure you were not 180* out? Rotor stabbed on #1 on the compression stroke and not exhaust?

Reason I ask is because I was under the impression that a 5.0 HO cam will run, very poorly, with a 1-5-4 firing order even if 180* out. You have 4 cyl of overlap.

The fact yours didn’t run makes me wonder if you are 180 degrees out and should be running the 1-5-4


Not to sound like a broken record, but if you are proceeding with the MAf, Mustang ECU you really should verify the cam. However I understand a lot of info is being thrown your way right now


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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Blacklx actually has me thinking. When at tdc/ my rotor is pointing closer to almost straight back. Maybe ever so slightly towards cyl 1. Maybe I'm a tooth off.

Mustang5l5. I'm not doing the maf until some more things are sorted. I posted what i had to rule out 60 pin hacking and running issues.
Again I'll grab new plugs and confirm timing events before going forward with anything else.
 

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Any wire that has a butt connector: tell me what factory wire color it is and what pin # it's going to.


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Blacklx actually has me thinking. When at tdc/ my rotor is pointing closer to almost straight back. Maybe ever so slightly towards cyl 1. Maybe I'm a tooth off.
Now rotate it to 10° BTDC and it should be pointing at #1....

one tooth off means nothing....


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Blacklx actually has me thinking. When at tdc/ my rotor is pointing closer to almost straight back. Maybe ever so slightly towards cyl 1. Maybe I'm a tooth off.

Mustang5l5. I'm not doing the maf until some more things are sorted. I posted what i had to rule out 60 pin hacking and running issues.
Again I'll grab new plugs and confirm timing events before going forward with anything else.


Roger. Will let you sort through things and wait for the update. Good luck


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Any wire that has a butt connector: tell me what factory wire color it is and what pin # it's going to.


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Do you see where i'm going with this?

You may have some improperly pinned wires causing issues that you'll chase until you give up and burn the truck to the ground.

You need to see what wires this person hacked up when attempting the MAF conversion. They may have started to move some pins and then never moved them back when they gave up on the MAF conversion.


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Can you post a pic of the distributor with and without the cap?

To clear it up, you’re running the stock ecu with a chip and stock harness? Is the harness in the truck pinned correctly?


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Can you post a pic of the distributor with and without the cap?

To clear it up, you’re running the stock ecu with a chip and stock harness? Is the harness in the truck pinned correctly?


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We are trying to figure that out now. Someone started to pin the mass air conversion harness to it and then stopped for whatever reason. Then they started to cut the harness and used butt connectors to splice the SD harness back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Stock ecu. No chip.
Stock harness. Unsure if pinned correctly. Lots to verify before going forward. I will post pics of the distributor tomorrow while verifying cam events.
 

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We are trying to figure that out now. Someone started to pin the mass air conversion harness to it and then stopped for whatever reason. Then they started to cut the harness and used butt connectors to splice the SD harness back in.
I just wanted to clarify which harness was used but I know you guys got a handle on that. Not trying to step on toes.

The distributor I’m more interested to see.


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I just wanted to clarify which harness was used but I know you guys got a handle on that. Not trying to step on toes.

The distributor I’m more interested to see.


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Oh no, no one's stepping on toes.. just letting you know what's going on

I'm interested in the distributor as well.

OP can make a video like the previous ones, showing the timing pointer on the balancer and removing the cap - showing the position of the rotor... would be much easier to show us that way


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Oh no, no one's stepping on toes.. just letting you know what's going on

I'm interested in the distributor as well.

OP can make a video like the previous ones, showing the timing pointer on the balancer and removing the cap - showing the position of the rotor... would be much easier to show us that way


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Exactly why I asked. Also the picture above of the eec connector, is that the one he’s running? I’ll go back to the op to see if it’s pictured above.

Edit: I looked at it again and the one pictured above is what he is running. He says it’s stock F150. It should be a matter of splicing color for color to get it back to stock and rule out everything except cam and timing.

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to find your cam's firing order....

turn engine until #1 cyl is at TDC compression stroke (verify by holding your finger over the #1 spark plug hole, when your finger gets pushed off the plug hole, stop. Then rotate the engine over by using a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft bolt. Now use a screwdriver and push it down into the #1 cylinder until you feel the top of the piston. Turn the engine by hand (ONLY by hand), you'll feel the screwdriver being pushed upward by the piston. Once it stops moving, you are at TDC compression stroke. STOP! Now what does your timing mark say? Hopefully it's pointed at zero.

Now with it at TDC compression stroke, wad up a paper towel and stuff it kinda tight in the #1, #3, and #5 spark plug hole. Now rotate the engine by hand only. Which is the first towel to get blowed out of the hole? If #5, you have a 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order. If #3, you have HO firing order (13726548). Easy.

You can use an early firing order (15426378) computer with a ho cam no problem but you will want to rewire the injectors so that they fire in the correct sequence. #1, 2, 6, and 8 stay the same. OR you can move them in the EEC connector which is the way I'd do it especially if the computer is already out. Just stating this, as it's really not that important here, but worth mentioning for those that didn't know.

so now that you know what firing order the cam is set up for, you can wire the distributor accordingly. If your cam is 13726548, sequence the plug wires the same way. Also, look at your distributor's trigger wheel...as it has one tooth that is smaller than the other 7, that is #1. Sometimes people forget about that. That smaller tooth is the only way the pip sensor knows that the engine is at #1 cylinder compression stroke. it is kinda used as a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor, all in one. Well kinda. You get the idea.

By the way #1 is the front cylinder (front of vehicle) on the passenger side. #4 is in the back, passenger side. Driver side is 5678, front to back. People that have worked on GM and Chrysler products never seem to get it right, but in their defense, I had to work on a neighbor's 85 Silverado a while back and even I got myself confused, so it works both ways. again it doesn't really pertain much to this discussion, but if it helps anyone, you are welcome.

If you have the 13726548 ho firing order, you could have some sort of ho cam, or maybe even aftermarket cam in the engine. If so, you'll probably wanna use the A9M computer and then you'll have to put a MAF on it, and wire it accordingly. Oh, and disconnect the vacuum hose from the map sensor. On MAF cars, that sensor is a bap sensor, and if you put a vacuum hose on it, it will run like poopie!

If you have a verified stock correct-year camshaft for your truck and the correct computer, make it work. Just remember that speed-density computers do NOT like any modification that affects the intake manifold vacuum, which would include almost any aftermarket camshaft and sometimes even an intake swap. Vacuum leaks will also do similar things, as now the intake manifold pressure is higher (higher pressure, lower numerically) and the map sensor reads it and adjusts the engine fueling and timing thinking it's under some kind of load.

You have a real project on your hands...one I'm not sure I'd get too involved in, but then again, as I age, I want less stuff to work on.
 

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Exactly why I asked. Also the picture above of the eec connector, is that the one he’s running? I’ll go back to the op to see if it’s pictured above.

Edit: I looked at it again and the one pictured above is what he is running. He says it’s stock F150. It should be a matter of splicing color for color to get it back to stock and rule out everything except cam and timing.

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Pin outs were provided. Besides going color for color I would check that each pin is connected properly & id even go as far as ringing out wire, end to end. Whoever did that hacking had no shame in the "work" they did so I wouldn't trust anything that was touched.

Just my suggestion


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Yea, that is correct. Rotor should be pointing at #1 and it will vary a bit from car to car depending on where you stabbed the dist.


Technically you can stab it anywhere and just rotate the dist 360 degrees until you line it up with #1. That’s why “1 tooth off” isn’t really a thing. You are just limited by the distributor hitting thrn intake which gives you a smaller range that you can stab it in and still adjust to #1
 

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For me, mine points more towards the other side of the intake but as long as you can get it pointed at the #1 cap terminal and hit 10 btdc (no spout) on the light its fine. If you cant you need to rotate it towards the passenger side 1 tooth. You absolutely need to use the #1 designated on the cap as the #1 plug.
 
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