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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I deleted my smog pump, and I installed the Ford Racing A/C Delete (the one where it moves the PS pump the the A/C location)

Im just running, crank, alternator, water pump, and power steering.

I tried a 67.5, 69.5 (which were too small)
and a 74 (too big)
 

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just measure. The charts dont know what alternator pulley you have, or under drive crank size etc.. Just take a string and measure. Pretty simple process.
 

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belt length

do you have stock pulleys on everything,

if so how much bigger is the 74" belt. is the tensioner touching at all


I'm doing the same exact thing, with a 3-g alt upgrade, and the a/c delete ps relocate. no smog. and almost ready to get a belt
 

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Measure it with a piece of string. If I remember right there is not as much room for error as you would think. On the second attempt I got it right. Smog bypass, 3G alternator, FMS PS relocator, and oversized PS pump pulley. Belt length was 77" (Autozone 770K6).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All stock pullies. Ill measure when I get out of work but ill bet my left arm the 73" belt works.
 

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71.5" goodyear belt here.
 

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x2 on the 71.5" belt for me. the best thing to do is measure with a string like previously suggested.
 

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Stumbled upon this thread while trying to figure out a belt size for a STOCK 5.0, stock pullies, Ford A/C eliminator kit, and NO smog pump. That chart is wrong. A 73" belt is too long. I tried every belt from 73 down. NO BELT FITS. The one that fits, the belt rubs itself under tensioner.
 

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Try this belt routing instead of the one in the earlier diagram to eliminate the rubbing problem:

 

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Try this belt routing instead of the one in the earlier diagram to eliminate the rubbing problem:

Thanks. I will try that but right now I already got fed up and moved onto something else on the car. I'll be back in this thread.
 

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Try this belt routing instead of the one in the earlier diagram to eliminate the rubbing problem:

Bullit95....thank you SO much. This routing worked. Set up as follows:

1989 Mustang 5.0L engine
STOCK CRANK, STOCK ALT, STOCK WATER PUMP PULLIES
Ford Racing A/C Eliminator kit
Bypassed Smog Pump
73.5" belt with this routing as pictured works.

Fan spins the same way and now I don't have to worry about my smog pump locking up and I don't have to spend $139.99 on a new one or $79.99 on a smog pump eliminator kit. The belt cost me $13.99 at the auto parts store. Cheapest belt I have ever bought!!! LOL
 

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Hey guys to further the smog delete I was wondering if although maybe doesn't make a lot of sense. One could leave the vacuum lines, pump, and lines in general still intact and just bypass the pulley with a smaller belt ultimately leaving it intact for a quick emissions inspection if necessary?
 

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why don't you want to run the pump?
 

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Hey guys to further the smog delete I was wondering if although maybe doesn't make a lot of sense. One could leave the vacuum lines, pump, and lines in general still intact and just bypass the pulley with a smaller belt ultimately leaving it intact for a quick emissions inspection if necessary?
Sure, but if you're thinking you're going to free up any HP by doing this then forget it. The primary reason most people remove it is to reduce clutter in the engine bay and lose weight. It takes an insignificant amount of power to run that thing so if you need it for emissions testing just run it.
 

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Is it possible to bypass the A/C compressor/pulley without having to remove the A/C? Maybe by adding an additional pulley and/or another size belt. I want to keep the A/C, yet bypass it at the track to gain more hp. 1990 LX 5.0.
 
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