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Hey guys. Wondering what I should use for parts for my 410w build. This is what I have so far. I dont want crazy power. Maybe around 500-600whp with boost. Something that will last and not break the bank.

I have a 1991 Ford Bronco with a 351w non roller. Im looking to build a 410w as I already have pistons for it that I recieved in a trade. They are DSS forged -31cc dish pistons that are designed for a 4.040 bore and for a 410w using a 6.200" rod with chevy journals. I also have AFR enforcer as cast 185cc heads with 59cc chambers not sure if there are too small but going to have to run them.

What I want to do is build a turbo setup eventually. Not in the budget as of now to turbo but with the pistons I have they are perfect for boost so why not eventually. As of now ill be running N/A.

Do I need a forged crank or can I use a 9000 series Scat cast setup? Also I'm thinking of getting the Scat "I" beam forged rods and not the "H" beam as I was told they are not necessary for my power goal.

So I guess my main question is what do you guys think I should get parts wise?
 

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you can build 600 na hp from a 408 and still be streetable ....

i drove my car around everywhere on pump gas and still ran 9.6s at the track in the 1/4 mile.

get you some good parts and build a good motor.... or better yet just buy one from Jim at fordstrokers.

if you want to do turbo... build will have to be a little different... requires some added BS... but even a little 331 will put down over 1100 RWHP if built right and add a turbo..
 

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'90 Windveil Blue LX (Dart Turbo T56)
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I have a 1991 Ford Bronco with a 351w non roller.
if you're ultimately looking for 500-600rwhp than..

rebuild the short-block on the budget meaning a better of-the-shelf-piston, arp rod bolts, and a good oil pump

invest in some good heads and custom cam geared towards your application/use as its a bronco not a mustang

and then when you're ready or have the funds throw a vortech s-trim on it and maybe some meth injection and be done
 

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there was a lot of horse chit in that article... wouldn't suggest that garbage to anyone.
Can you list whats wrong? I try to keep it up to date as much as possible. if theres any bad info in there it would be best to correct it.
 

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solid mounts can be used on road race vehicles and the like but should NEVER be used on drag vehicles
False
Dart says it's perfectly fine with their blocks.


All engines should have MLS head gaskets
FALSE
often times a head gasket is used as a fuse in case of detonation.. esp for new combos that haven't got a tune dialed in 100%. we just replaced them every few pulls on the dyno until we got the results we were looking for.

Aftermarket distributors CANNOT be used for high performance applications and SHOULD NEVER BE USED regardless
FALSE
totally FALSE..... todays high compression boosted motors running on methanol require a MAG and MAG points box. this can be used with your Fuel injection quite efficiently. NO STOCK DISTRIBUTOR can be compared to the output of a 44 amp mag.

If your engine currently has CHAMPION plugs they MUST BE REPLACED prior to getting your engine tuned
FALSE
horseshit champion plugs are noted for being one of the best supercharged plugs with high boost, high compression, high horsepower motors. Easy to read after each pass..

It is imperative that on all supercharged engines a supercharger byass or recirculation valve is utilized
FALSE
my 14-71 supercharged motor does not need a bypass or recirculation valve....



i could go on and on..... bottom line is for kids in the sandbox... no one would ever need knowledge outside of that BS... but for those of us in the real world .... building real cars..... competing in real events... this stuff is just stupid AF
 

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solid mounts can be used on road race vehicles and the like but should NEVER be used on drag vehicles
False
Dart says it's perfectly fine with their blocks.
the majority aren't using dart blocks and in that case it wouldn't hurt to run them regardless. You must have missed the part about solid mounts causing stock blocks to split

All engines should have MLS head gaskets
FALSE
often times a head gasket is used as a fuse in case of detonation.. esp for new combos that haven't got a tune dialed in 100%. we just replaced them every few pulls on the dyno until we got the results we were looking for.
That's pretty idiotic. It sounds what you really need is a competent tuner.

Aftermarket distributors CANNOT be used for high performance applications and SHOULD NEVER BE USED regardless
FALSE
totally FALSE..... todays high compression boosted motors running on methanol require a MAG and MAG points box. this can be used with your Fuel injection quite efficiently. NO STOCK DISTRIBUTOR can be compared to the output of a 44 amp mag.
This doesn't apply to 99.9% of the people of this forum. MSD distributors were the objective here as they have been known to have significant spark variations from cylinder to cylinder due to their poor tolerance reluctors.

If your engine currently has CHAMPION plugs they MUST BE REPLACED prior to getting your engine tuned
FALSE
horseshit champion plugs are noted for being one of the best supercharged plugs with high boost, high compression, high horsepower motors. Easy to read after each pass..
again this doesn't apply to someone with an actual street vehicle i.e. 99.9% of the people here

It is imperative that on all supercharged engines a supercharger byass or recirculation valve is utilized
FALSE
my 14-71 supercharged motor does not need a bypass or recirculation valve....
again, 99.9% of the people here aren't running a 14-71 so its irrelevant. When running a stock ecu with a mass air flow sensor it is required.

i could go on and on..... bottom line is for kids in the sandbox... no one would ever need knowledge outside of that BS... but for those of us in the real world .... building real cars..... competing in real events... this stuff is just stupid AF
it sounds like your nit picking just things applicable only to your specific setup. Its general information for the majority of what people are running here.
 

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Those heads and a Bronco friendly intake and cam will not be making 600 rwhp naturally aspirated so that is off the table.

I guess the question is what are you trying to do with this? I get the feeling that your rear axle and transmission won't be long for this world with 500+rwhp, 35" heavy 4x4 tires while hauling around 5000+ lbs of truck. That kind of horsepower it also going to need fuel system upgrades.

I don't think doing this without breaking the bank is that realistic.
 

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The mount stress on the block is entirely from reaction to the drive shaft torque. It isn't from horsepower, it is from the peak torque on the driveshaft. That peak torque has everything to do with rear gear ratio, weight, and tractive effort.

The reaction to that twisting force on the driveshaft by the transmission output is what makes the transmission try to roll over, and that force is coupled through the bellhousing to the block .

The big issue with solid mounts is they are generally crappy designs. They are tall and narrow, concentrating the load in a small area. They don't sit flat and wide against the K-member pads, so they are spindly and they try to rock and bend. They act like a little rigid lever on the mount pads, so they bend and pry on the block.

My 3200lb car does 1.12 60 ft times. I got one or two passes out of a Maximum Motorsports mount and the things laid over. They screwed up the Team Z K member, despite my having two torque straps (one at the bell and one at the alternator on the driver side).

I fixed the K-member and went to Summit poly mounts and my car has been good for a few years. Not a single sign of any issue.

I run a STOCK OEM 1989 Ford distributor with all but one tooth in the shutter wheel and a 36-1 crank trigger. I use the OEM distributor with OEM cap and rotor as a cam sensor and spark distributor with a single coil CD ignition. I can run 30 psi boost (not that that means much) at 8K RPM plus on E112 and my system never misses a lick, and I can get a whole season out of plugs. I never change them unless I have the intercooler or exhaust out of the way. My cylinder pressure is over the moon, because I get over 1000 lb/ft on a 3.4" stroke engine.

I use MLS gaskets, and have for years, even on stock blocks. I wouldn't have a different gasket on my stuff.
 

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the majority aren't using dart blocks and in that case it wouldn't hurt to run them regardless. You must have missed the part about solid mounts causing stock blocks to split



That's pretty idiotic. It sounds what you really need is a competent tuner.


This doesn't apply to 99.9% of the people of this forum. MSD distributors were the objective here as they have been known to have significant spark variations from cylinder to cylinder due to their poor tolerance reluctors.


again this doesn't apply to someone with an actual street vehicle i.e. 99.9% of the people here


again, 99.9% of the people here aren't running a 14-71 so its irrelevant. When running a stock ecu with a mass air flow sensor it is required.



it sounds like your nit picking just things applicable only to your specific setup. Its general information for the majority of what people are running here.
not just mine.. but many of those i work on... and yes it does sound like nit picking... but it's wrong information ........ YES it does apply to the 99% or so.. but in no way does that make it correct... i am not trying to pick anyone in particular apart... but i was voicing that the information in not necessarily correct.. i believe everyone that reads it should know...
 

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I can get a whole season out of plugs. I never change them unless I have the intercooler or exhaust out of the way. My cylinder pressure is over the moon, because I get over 1000 lb/ft on a 3.4" stroke engine.
our plugs are garbage after each pass with the mag and dual mag setups.... my own cyl pressure isnt that bad... 11:1 motor at 38% overdrive.. neighborhood of 48 to 50 lbs of boost depending on density altitude.. but one of the cars i worked on had a 16/71 pushing almost 60 lbs of boost on his 13:1 BAE. It was to the point that car wasnt fun at all... at least i can get 40 passes before going into my bottem end ... he was in his after almost every other pass.
 
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