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402rwhp/359rwtq Stock Short Block 302

3145 Views 65 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  FineLineMtrSprts
I put this combo together based on Rock4451's post here 372rwhp Thread I thought it was super impressive for a bolt on 302. Life gets busy and he unfortunately never got it dialed in at the track. I happen to drag race quite a bit so I decided I would try to put one together and see how quick I can go. My previous combo was ported GT40Y's, F303+ cam = 11.86 at 114 354rwhp STD.

I got it on the dyno yesterday and the results blew me away. The TFS 190 11R's and Ed's cam picked up 60 HP at the wheels!(STD) I'll post the SAE smoothing 5 sheet since that is what Rock had posted in his thread(Uncorrected and STD numbers/sheets are in the video). I did not do any tuning, just a couple pulls and the AFR is pig rich. I'll be able to fine tune that at the track. I had looked at the plugs and put in a fresh O2 sensor before the dyno and pulled some jets and it was still rich at about 11.5 AFR across the board.

I've been to the track a few times this year before the dyno and ran a best of 11.58 at 117mph. PB 60' at 1.58. Now the goal is to get the suspension, clutch program, chassis, and me the driver as efficient as possible and see how quick we can go.

1968 Torino GT 3260 pounds with driver
Stock explorer 302 short block - stock lifters
FTI custom hydraulic roller cam
TFS 190 11R’s 56cc
Victor JR intake 1 inch open spacer
Holley 650HP
1 5/8" headers - 3” HARM X-pipe and mufflers
MSD ignition
Electric fan - Small crank pulley
Aluminum flywheel and driveshaft
G-Force street T5
9” 4.30’s 31 spline Yukon locker
MT 26 x 10 stiff wall slicks
Calvert 90/10 shocks
Mororo 242# trick springs
Calvert mono leafs and Caltrac bars
Viking double adjustable shocks
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Plot
Receipt Font Number Pattern Temperature

I started posting some vids on youtube just sharing the process if you're interested. I don't have the personality to carry a channel lol. Just having some fun. Not much out there for Torino content... especially SBF stick car stuff.

Dyno video.

First passes of the year.
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I wish they drilled those heads for the 3" sbf bolt pattern. if you have a tig and can do some basic fab work those cheap China ls swap 1 3/4 or 1 7/8" long tubes can be made to work at least on a fox body, cheaper then making a set from scratch or buying a kit. I've done it on a couple cars now but Ive been been doing real budget cheap stuff the last few toys.
Its a pretty proven combo, there's been a few local fti camed sbe 11r head cars running into the 10's na, a good bit lighter and good air east coast tracks, Cecil atco etc. Can't think of the name on here but was a nice red coupe in NJ used to see at the local tracks, ran good with similar set up but with efi and a systemax. Most ppl get hung up on dynos, weight and gearing are going to play the major roles on the track once you get it all working, have to make everything count when it na and don't have a bottle or boost to make it up on the back half.

This is the car I'm thinking of.

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I think 11.3 or maybe even quicker is doable. With some seat time I'll get there. It takes some practice to make the hero runs.

In my opinion heavy flywheels steal torque. Torque is what moves the car. People love to say the inertia of the heavy flywheel will help the launch... do these people have 50 pounds of crank pulley and harmonic balancer for inertia? The bog is clutch, suspension, tire, and driver issues which I will continue to work on... again in my opinion. Also it bogged with the heavy flywheel also.

Cale at Black Magic shared his info from all of his data saying the inertia helps very little and the weight savings on each shift is worth more.

Think its a catch 22 on your typical low hp street car vs a set up more to rev and race. unless your ok with upping the gearing or getting the chassis lighter, but with a 4:30 I think it probably wouldn't be an issue. I know The light weigh one I tried killed the 60ft in my car when it only had 3.73's, then 3.55's on a 26" for the bottle, car was never strictly a NA car tough, Was a tiny bit more then your race weight but I could never get it to 60ft on motor or the bottle like it would with the old billet steel no matter how much I played with the suspension and low mid 1.5s where normal on motor before I tried one and I never could show a gain from one on that car over the billet steel, ran the same on the bottle too but that was more getting a clean pass off then anything else.

I keep seeing a cheap Swiss cheese looking chromo one these days that claims USA made, that's 15lbs but haven't really looked into them ,think my old spec aluminum was 13lb and the billet steel was 18ish lbs, the cheap ass in me is kind of tempted to try one of them though lol.
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Both have one common denominator.....
A b cam and 11r heads?😁. To lazy to read the other thread so idk lol.
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