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I own a '96 Cobra with 110K miles. The engine is stock (and N/A). I've completed moderate suspension upgrades, MGW shifter...I'm considering swapping out the 3.27 gear with a 4.10 or 4.30. Any recommendations as to which ratio and why? Also, my stock clutch is going. I'm looking at the Exedy Mach 400 Stage 2 ($245 @ AM). It's a random consideration based on reviews I've read. Any suggestions regarding clutches, brands etc? Should I replace the clutch cable, and is a speedo gear a good choice for re-calibrating the speedometer? Lastly, if anyone happens to know, approximately where would the rpm be hovering at 65/70 mph if I installed a 4.30? Thank you for your time.
 

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there are speed calculators all over the web

trans gear, rear gear, tire revolutions per mile are inputted
 

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It won't, there aren't any trans gears that'll get it correct for 4.10s or 4.30s. Just get it changed in the tune. 4.30s for a B headed car if you don't care about highway RPM.
 

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You didn't say what you plan to use this car for. Every part, every modification, should only be considered AFTER you know what the intended use will be. You might already know, but we don't.

Have you ever driven a car with 4:80'd or have you just read about them and they sound cool? While often appropriate for a track strip car, or an ultra serious street racer... they're not at all the best choice for a spirited street car. 4:10's maybe, 3:73s are imo a great choice for a spirited street car.

Clutches are the same. Some are better used for different purposes. Virtually any get the job done, call the manufacturer and be honest about intended use and take their advice. I'm partial to Centerforce. Do you know why you might want to change the cable, or quadrant or adjuster? Many people get in real trouble with the wrong choices with these and many never know it till their knew clutch is toast waaaaay prematurely.

Not sure if your model has a speedo gear or is electronic, but if it is a gear you should know that after you know your intended use, choose a gear set, wheel and tire sizes, then it's possible to change both the gear inside the transmission tail shaft as well the gear on the end of the table.. you choose both to be in the range you want when one doesn't do it.

Good luck..
 

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This is a modular forum, every modular speedo is electronic...

Also no not virtually any clutch will get the job done, they are rated for different power levels and there are multiple different styles.

The Exedy Mach 400 is a great clutch for anything the stock trans will support as it is rated for 500ft lbs which is right when the 10 spline input shaft will snap. Nice and light. Use the 01-up style 11" flywheel and clutch regardless of what year you are, it works with any modular.
 

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I own a '96 Cobra with 110K miles. The engine is stock (and N/A). I've completed moderate suspension upgrades, MGW shifter...I'm considering swapping out the 3.27 gear with a 4.10 or 4.30. Any recommendations as to which ratio and why? Also, my stock clutch is going. I'm looking at the Exedy Mach 400 Stage 2 ($245 @ AM). It's a random consideration based on reviews I've read. Any suggestions regarding clutches, brands etc? Should I replace the clutch cable, and is a speedo gear a good choice for re-calibrating the speedometer? Lastly, if anyone happens to know, approximately where would the rpm be hovering at 65/70 mph if I installed a 4.30? Thank you for your time.
I bought my 96 Cobra in Sept. of 1995. It has 20,000 miles on it with over 650 drag strip passes and over 700 1/4 mile street racing passes. I've shifted at 6,800 on all of them.

How you are going to use the car decides what kind of mods you are going to make. I put a Spec StageII in mine and, yes, change your clutch cable and add an adjuster that mounts on the firewall. You can dial in the amount of pedal travel you want with the adjuster.

These cars have no bottom end torque, whatsoever, and have to rev to get any response and to run at their optimum. I maxe the mistake of putting 4,10's in the car. You can't launch off the line with 4.10's. As soon as the tires bite the car will bog because there's not enough gear there to let the car pull back up into its power band. Ok, in with 4.30's. Much better. Snappier response but still a little lazy. After racing with this gear for a while i changed to 4.56 after Andy, on this forum, highly recommended them since my car is a saturday night special car. Bam!! For drag racing this is the perfect gear. Great lunch with Mickey Thompson drag radials and on an 1/8 drag strip it goes through the finish line at 6,600 in third and on a quarter mile strip 6,400 in fourth gear. Perfect! In its peak power band on either track and pulls in fourth like you wouldn't believe.

Of course, you may not use your car like i do mine. At 60 mph it is at 2,400 to 2,500 rpm. I rarely get on the interstate but when i do i drive at around 58 mph. If i try to drive at 70 the rpm's are pretty high...about 2,800. But, 4.56 is the optimum drag racing gear and i don't use the car for trips as you can see from the low mileage.

Installing 3.73's in your car is laughable as you won't really tell any difference with 4.10's. It takes too long for the car to pull into its power band and is a waste of money. I would go 4.30 if you are not going to mostly race it. Any gearing requires better tires. If i don't have drag radials on it will spin the tires in 2nd gear at 40 mph when i stomp on it. As far as the speedometer i bought one of the calibraters that will put it right on the money for you in accuracy.
 

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"every modular speedo is electronic... "

I didn't know that. Thanks.

"Also no not virtually any clutch will get the job done, they are rated for different power levels and there are multiple different styles. "

Depends what the job is which remains unstated. Though, if you read the entire paragraph you'd have seen the part about calling the manufacturer and detailing his usage in order to get the right clutch. I could have said it better, but all the pieces were there.

"Use the 01-up style 11" flywheel and clutch regardless of what year you are, it works with any modular. "

Yep, the 11" clutch will give you more surface area which means more of every positive characteristic.

"I bought my 96 Cobra in Sept. of 1995. It has 20,000 miles on it with over 650 drag strip passes and over 700 1/4 mile street racing passes. I've shifted at 6,800 on all of them. "

That's an impressive number of passes. Unfortunately the passes and the rant that follows them is patently irrelavent since the OP has yet to state what his car is used for. Without knowing what it's used for, any recommendations not general in nature are a guess at best.

Though, we can surmise a few things with the information he did give. For instance, he installed a short throw MGW shifter which next to a CAI is the most common modification when someone buys a new car and doesn't yet have a plan but wants to do something and has $300 burning a hole in his wallet.

No one but me thinks it's funny (and marginally ironic) the guy is asking for US, people who know nothing about his car other than it's a 96 Cobra with 110k miles, a fairly new MGW STS, and a clutch which is on the way out, to make recommendations on gearing and parts replacement? Think how much fun his service writer is having, his SW gets the same info and the benefit of his complete diagnostic skills all in one not very useful package.

I wonder what the next poster will recommend?
 

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This is a modular forum, every modular speedo is electronic...
Nope. Not correct. Not 100% correct anyway.

My '98 GT had 3.73's that I had put in and the speedo was corrected with a speedo gear. When the T45 transmission developed an aversion to staying in reverse, without physically being held in reverse I swapped it out and replaced it with a used T45 from a Cobra (supposedly...I didn't really care as I was broke and needed my driver to drive). Popped that speedo gear right in it and kept on going. Put 100K on that car with the 3.73 gears and speedo gear swap.

The T45 can take a speedo gear. Or you can correct in the tune. If you are going to tune that's the way to go.
 

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Nope. Not correct. Not 100% correct anyway.

My '98 GT had 3.73's that I had put in and the speedo was corrected with a speedo gear. When the T45 transmission developed an aversion to staying in reverse, without physically being held in reverse I swapped it out and replaced it with a used T45 from a Cobra (supposedly...I didn't really care as I was broke and needed my driver to drive). Popped that speedo gear right in it and kept on going. Put 100K on that car with the 3.73 gears and speedo gear swap.

The T45 can take a speedo gear. Or you can correct in the tune. If you are going to tune that's the way to go.
Actually yes, 100% correct. The speedometer is electronic and the sensor is a gear driven electronic sensor (VSS). The 99-up cars have the same setup and the same sensor except instead of a gear its a pulse sensor (OSS). This is why you can correct any 94-up car with a speedcal or a tune... because the speedos are electronic. 93-down are fully mechanical cable driven speedometers.

And you didn't correct your car's speedo properly by putting that white 23 tooth gear in it, you were off by 10-15%. The white 23 tooth gear is a Chrysler gear that isn't meshed correctly for Ford transmissions. It gets it close but its the wrong way to do it and they get chewed up over time as well by the T-5/T-45 8 tooth drive gear. Been there, done that before I knew any better with my first Mustang. The 100% correct way to change your speedo is in the tune. Speedcals work but they are a hack way of doing it although they do work well but why not just update your tune? Most tuners will do a quickie speedometer calibration it for a few bucks or free. Definitely cheaper than buying a speedcal. Only good use for a speedcal IMO is as a converter box if you are putting a 99-up OSS car in a 98-down VSS car or vice versa... which I have also done.
 

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I bought my 96 Cobra in Sept. of 1995. It has 20,000 miles on it with over 650 drag strip passes and over 700 1/4 mile street racing passes. I've shifted at 6,800 on all of them.

How you are going to use the car decides what kind of mods you are going to make. I put a Spec StageII in mine and, yes, change your clutch cable and add an adjuster that mounts on the firewall. You can dial in the amount of pedal travel you want with the adjuster.

These cars have no bottom end torque, whatsoever, and have to rev to get any response and to run at their optimum. I maxe the mistake of putting 4,10's in the car. You can't launch off the line with 4.10's. As soon as the tires bite the car will bog because there's not enough gear there to let the car pull back up into its power band. Ok, in with 4.30's. Much better. Snappier response but still a little lazy. After racing with this gear for a while i changed to 4.56 after Andy, on this forum, highly recommended them since my car is a saturday night special car. Bam!! For drag racing this is the perfect gear. Great lunch with Mickey Thompson drag radials and on an 1/8 drag strip it goes through the finish line at 6,600 in third and on a quarter mile strip 6,400 in fourth gear. Perfect! In its peak power band on either track and pulls in fourth like you wouldn't believe.

Of course, you may not use your car like i do mine. At 60 mph it is at 2,400 to 2,500 rpm. I rarely get on the interstate but when i do i drive at around 58 mph. If i try to drive at 70 the rpm's are pretty high...about 2,800. But, 4.56 is the optimum drag racing gear and i don't use the car for trips as you can see from the low mileage.

Installing 3.73's in your car is laughable as you won't really tell any difference with 4.10's. It takes too long for the car to pull into its power band and is a waste of money. I would go 4.30 if you are not going to mostly race it. Any gearing requires better tires. If i don't have drag radials on it will spin the tires in 2nd gear at 40 mph when i stomp on it. As far as the speedometer i bought one of the calibraters that will put it right on the money for you in accuracy.
100% agreed. 3.73s are a tweener gear, you gain what like 150rpm on the highway and lose a pretty good chunk of extra oopmh in 1st gear because of how the multipliers work. Completely pointless. 4.10s or 4.30s for a NA street car and higher like those 4.56s for a drag car or leave the 3.27s if you do a lot on the highway. I left the 3.27s because I blast down the highways stationed over here in Europe and there are 0 dragstrips anywhere near me. I do also turn 2800 on the highway pretty regularly lol.

Also damn I though my car was low miles... 20k mile first run 4V Cobra is awesome!
 

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Actually yes, 100% correct. The speedometer is electronic and the sensor is a gear driven electronic sensor (VSS). The 99-up cars have the same setup and the same sensor except instead of a gear its a pulse sensor (OSS). This is why you can correct any 94-up car with a speedcal or a tune... because the speedos are electronic. 93-down are fully mechanical cable driven speedometers.

And you didn't correct your car's speedo properly by putting that white 23 tooth gear in it, you were off by 10-15%. The white 23 tooth gear is a Chrysler gear that isn't meshed correctly for Ford transmissions. It gets it close but its the wrong way to do it and they get chewed up over time as well by the T-5/T-45 8 tooth drive gear. Been there, done that before I knew any better with my first Mustang. The 100% correct way to change your speedo is in the tune. Speedcals work but they are a hack way of doing it although they do work well but why not just update your tune? Most tuners will do a quickie speedometer calibration it for a few bucks or free. Definitely cheaper than buying a speedcal. Only good use for a speedcal IMO is as a converter box if you are putting a 99-up OSS car in a 98-down VSS car or vice versa... which I have also done.
I know exactly how the system works/worked. I didn't say it was or wasn't electronic. It is. I didn't say anything about how it determines what to disply on the dash. I said a gear can correct it.

It can be corrected to be close enough, or even right on the money depending on your tire size, with a gear up until '98 if you don't have or want to buy a tuner. And sorry but the gear never gave me a lick of trouble in 100K miles of driving. More than once I passed one of those stationary speed signs that has the posted speed limit and then below says your speed is and the radar says your going X. Shock! Surprise! But it was always right on with the indicated speed on the speedometer. So it did correct for my R&P and my specific tire height which was not OEM. It may have been off 1-2%, but most definitly was not off 10-15%.

This is not to say I disagree with you that the best path is with a tuner. I agree totally on that. But the gear method can also work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all for responding to my post. I truly appreciate your collective insight, experience and knowledge. I posted the above query to a variety of Mustang forums; however, for some inexplicable reason, my e-mail account received no response-notifications (except for the first--indy2000) from this forum/thread. My loss for not subsequently checking (although I swear I did). My apologies for any frustration I may have caused by omitting my car's intended use. I highly doubt my car will ever see a road-course/1/4 mile. The engine will likely remain n/a, unless the heavens drop $ for a s/c (or ?). I decided on the 4.10s. I agree, the car is low-end-torque-deficient, and several factors lead me to the 4.10s (also considering a Traction-Lok re-build kit with carbon discs). My driving is mainly street. I've read that at 65/70 mph, with 4.10s, the rpm should hover around 25/2600. I chose the Exedy Mach 400 Stage 1 clutch kit (AM)...considered McLeod, also, keeping stock clutch-cable. At the flywheel, I believe it's 438 ft-lbs torque. I can't afford a tuning device, not for just a re-cal. Ford Performance no longer offers their speed re-calibration device (I called). Summit offers a universal re-cal device by Dakota Digital for $100. FP referred me to Modern Driveline. They offer something for $170. I'm considering Steeda's 23-tooth speedo gear, and yes, I've read the horror stories (I have the 7-tooth T-45). Thank you for your time and patience. Please feel free to offer suggestions, recommendations etc.
 
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