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Sounds so badass man.

I wonder if with long tubes and an electric water pump to offset my 2.5” pipes with your 3” would put me in around the same.

Are these motors ok to turn 6,400/6,500 without exploding ? I know stock is 6k, I didn’t think another 400 revs would kill it.


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Discussion Starter #266
Sounds so badass man.

I wonder if with long tubes and an electric water pump to offset my 2.5” pipes with your 3” would put me in around the same.

Are these motors ok to turn 6,400/6,500 without exploding ? I know stock is 6k, I didn’t think another 400 revs would kill it.


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Thanks a lot man. Actually it’s quieter now I just remembered. In this video those are 2.5” dyno max ultra-flo, I since upgraded to 3” to match headers and midpipe. Much more mellow and I know it’s breathing just as well obviously, at WOT it still howls pretty good.


For revving a stock stroke 302, I’m not worried, but it depends who you ask. Stock ECU enforced rev limit is 6250. Some very smart guys say never go over 6500 with stock style lifters, and truth be told I would have link bar lifters but when I did the cam swap I didn’t remove the lower or the heads because quite frankly I didn’t know where I was going to be making peak power but I decided I was willing to risk it.

The funniest part is when I first got it together I had a faulty shift light in there. Thought it died off kinda hard around the top of the tach so just for the hell of it I tested another known good shift light and discovered with the broken one I was shifting about 6900-7k. Talk about being pissed off. But it took the abuse and kept asking for more each time. Got the new shift light in and it felt great all the way up to 6700. My best advice if you really want to keep it stock bottom end and rev it, is get a good balancer and aluminum flywheel. Aluminum FW is another debate I won’t even think about touching but the hard fact is that it’s less rotating mass = less to fight through to spin the rear tires at high RPM. I still haven’t had my car dyno’d with the new balancer, aluminum flywheel, drag pack, electric water pump, 3” X pipe and 3” mufflers, it made 372 before any of those mods. I’d be tickled pink if it made 385rwhp now.

There’s no right or wrong answer when revving a stock block/SBE 302, MFE is a mod here and he split his block making 300ish rwhp shifting it at 5500-6000 IIRC. Other people say F it and spin them to 7200-7400. I will say in all my findings that actual factory Ford blocks and rotating assemblies untouched seem to handle the abuse better than the reman’d ones found on eBay and the like.

It all depends if you feel lucky. For my application, I felt it would survive the abuse and my tuner feels the exact same way. He wasn’t nervous at all on dyno day about the RPM discussion. This’ll be the last pushrod 302 I ever push so when it gives up the ghost, it’ll be onto something 351 based or Dart 363 based.

I am making it a priority this fall to hit the strip with it, whether it’s in SC or back in IL, who knows.
 

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Sweet man. I was going to go the dart route. But after expensive forged wheels, cobra brakes and literally everything MM has for these cars; I said enough is enough. If I could make 370 to the tire. I am happy. It’s a Street weekend car that weighs no more then 3,000lbs.

I do plan on on doing everything right on it. Custom cam, lifters and all. I can imagine good lifters and a good high quality balancer have a lot to do with keeping things together at a high rpm!


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Wondering what long tubes you are running? I’m really debating are the 1,500 dollar American racing pieces worth the money


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Discussion Starter #269
Sweet man. I was going to go the dart route. But after expensive forged wheels, cobra brakes and literally everything MM has for these cars; I said enough is enough. If I could make 370 to the tire. I am happy. It’s a Street weekend car that weighs no more then 3,000lbs.

I do plan on on doing everything right on it. Custom cam, lifters and all. I can imagine good lifters and a good high quality balancer have a lot to do with keeping things together at a high rpm!


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I know different strokes for different folks, but if I went dart and stayed NA, I’d be happy with no less than 600rwhp. Just takes some outside the box thinking and not succumbing to the fear of “omg this part is too big!” which seems to be all too common.
370 to the tires in a little old 302 is fun, foxes are light so it’s a great time. With all the pony cars now coming out with 8 and 10 speed auto trans and more power to boot, it takes a bit more to run with them than it did 10 years ago!
Wondering what long tubes you are running? I’m really debating are the 1,500 dollar American racing pieces worth the money


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Haha, hey man it’s your money so do what you want. I run a pair of used MAC 1-3/4” long tubes that I cut the ball flanges off of so it’s a true 3” collector, and use V band clamps to connect headers to X. Paid $200 used for my headers. Mac uses a true equal length LT design, BBK’s aren’t equal length.
 

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I’m only used to a stock powered 302 so I can’t imagine what it would feel like with 370 to the tire.

An 11 second car is pretty damn quick. Plus I also have every part under the sun when it comes to maximum motorsports suspension. So I’d utilize every bit I could!

But yes back to the dart block- I can’t swallow that bitter pill. My cost in it is 8k Canadian, mind you. Which is still a #### ton. Now you add your heads. Your intake. Custom cam. Balancer. Pushrods. Lifters. Rockers.

Just can’t do it! I thought 302s were making 320-330 to the wheel. I wasn’t happy with that. But another 50whp changes the situation huge!


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If you are looking to buy MAC headers right now, only buy them from someone that has what you want in stock. I'm 5 weeks yesterday since I bought my set and still no idea what or even if the ship date will be.
 

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I’d love to see if there are dunk graphs to indicate if the more expansive pieces from stainless and looks produce more power.


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Discussion Starter #273
I’m only used to a stock powered 302 so I can’t imagine what it would feel like with 370 to the tire.

An 11 second car is pretty damn quick. Plus I also have every part under the sun when it comes to maximum motorsports suspension. So I’d utilize every bit I could!

But yes back to the dart block- I can’t swallow that bitter pill. My cost in it is 8k Canadian, mind you. Which is still a #### ton. Now you add your heads. Your intake. Custom cam. Balancer. Pushrods. Lifters. Rockers.

Just can’t do it! I thought 302s were making 320-330 to the wheel. I wasn’t happy with that. But another 50whp changes the situation huge!


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I’m not sure what your goal is but if you have 370 and a good suspension, that’s a combination for some great performance. My 11.8 was roughly 35rwhp ago and some more weight and I am on bone stock suspension, and I mean bone stock. I got this car from a dealer who got it from a guy that kept it in his garage and babied it when it was sunny out.

You should be in for a real treat. Throttle response with the 190s and 1-3/4 headers is seriously as instant as it gets, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #274
If you are looking to buy MAC headers right now, only buy them from someone that has what you want in stock. I'm 5 weeks yesterday since I bought my set and still no idea what or even if the ship date will be.


There are also 2 different designs of MAC LTs for 302s IIRC. One of them has the steering shaft threading through primary tubes I believe, and the other (what I have) have the tubes hugging a bit closer to the block so the steering shaft goes around them “completely” and by that I mean I could maybe fit a playing card between my steering shaft knuckle and my primary (I forget which # primary it is).
 

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Yeah it’s a full suspension car. Coil overs up front, k member, control arms, torque arm, panhard bar. All that good stuff.

Does the sm2 come in one size only ?


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I ordered 1.75" primary to 3" outlet long tube ceramic headers. Hopefully I get them. Will be the LAST MAC products I buy. If I didn't already have a brand new 3" pro-chamber and 3" cat-back waiting, I'd look at something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #278
Yeah it’s a full suspension car. Coil overs up front, k member, control arms, torque arm, panhard bar. All that good stuff.

Does the sm2 come in one size only ?


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SM2 - Yes. You can hog the TB inlet out to 80mm safely and also align the upper to the lower, from the factory they could be slightly misaligned. I’m doing further modifications basically using the bottom flange of the upper and making my own 90mm upper inlet to weld to it, shorter runners and less bull#### 180 degree turns. If I wasn’t such a baby wanting to keep the stock hood I would get a TFS Box R.

Rock4451, any track updates yet?

Moved to SC and been an ongoing effort to hit the track in any conditions short of 85+ degrees and 100% humidity. This fall I’m getting to the track.
 

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I ordered 1.75" primary to 3" outlet long tube ceramic headers. Hopefully I get them. Will be the LAST MAC products I buy. If I didn't already have a brand new 3" pro-chamber and 3" cat-back waiting, I'd look at something else.


Not liking the Mac headers ?


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Not liking the Mac headers ?


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I am not liking the complete and total lack of communication. If they are made to order...fine. I get that. But tell me what the F is going on and give me a lead time. I work in purchasing. I know how production and lead time and shipping work. Just tell me the honest truth so I am not left hanging. But all I get is crickets. The vendor I bought through has this same problem with several orders right now. They have been great. I can't complain about them. Communication with them has been very good. I can tell they are as frustrated as I am.

I've used MAC before and they are a pretty good product. They've lost me over this though.
 
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