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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I’m new to the site and planning on building a single turbo 351w, just curious what’s a good set up?
So far I’m thinking of this list but if Something seems wrong or wouldn’t work well I’d appreciate some advise!

Stock 92 351w bored to .040

Scat lightweight 3.500 stroke crankshaft

Scat 6.200 length H beam Connecting rods

Trick flow Twisted Wedge11R 190cc heads

Full ARP engine bolt kit and head studs

Trick Flow:
Hyrdrologic Roller Lifters
.50 250/254 Cam
1.72 Rocker arms

Manley Chromoly Swedged End pushrods

Open to options on what Pistions, rings, gap, and head gaskets to run, Thanks!
 

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Well, a 6.200 rod is not used with a stock stroke, so that needs to be changed to a stock length 5.5956 rod, so you can use a normal, common piston. Figure out what chamber head, either 56 or 66cc and then get the appropriate piston for your desired static compression ratio
 

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Hey I’m new to the site and planning on building a single turbo 351w, just curious what’s a good set up?
So far I’m thinking of this list but if Something seems wrong or wouldn’t work well I’d appreciate some advise!

Stock 92 351w bored to .040

Scat lightweight 3.500 stroke crankshaft

Scat 6.200 length H beam Connecting rods

Trick flow Twisted Wedge11R 190cc heads

Full ARP engine bolt kit and head studs

Trick Flow:
Hyrdrologic Roller Lifters
.50 250/254 Cam
1.72 Rocker arms

Manley Chromoly Swedged End pushrods

Open to options on what Pistions, rings, gap, and head gaskets to run, Thanks!
I would like to see a build up of a wicked N/A small block Ford. I'd do it myself, but unfortunately I don't have the funds for such a build.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, a 6.200 rod is not used with a stock stroke, so that needs to be changed to a stock length 5.5956 rod, so you can use a normal, common piston. Figure out what chamber head, either 56 or 66cc and then get the appropriate piston for your desired static compression ratio
Thanks for the reply

The chambers of the heads I’m going for are 56cc. Unfortunately I’ve never boosted an engine before only true-to natural aspirated engines. What is the ideal compression ratio range to run for boost?
Also does that cam duration seem correct?
 

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What the lobe separation angle on the cam? Seems rather aggressive for a turbo 351, my custom N/A cam for my 428w is similar in duration BTW.

You'll need a good sized dish 26+cc piston to keep compression down to ~9:1 for the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What the lobe separation angle on the cam? Seems rather aggressive for a turbo 351, my custom N/A cam for my 428w is similar in duration BTW.

You'll need a good sized dish 26+cc piston to keep compression down to ~9:1 for the turbo.
Lobe angle is 110
Open to options for a cam
 

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Read a lot more about what you are talking about doing or be prepared to spend money you don't need or want to spend. Or, pay someone that knows what they are doing, because it sounds like you have no real clue.

EDIT: Reading this again...Sorry if I sounded like I was being a bit of D. Not my intention. Was just saying read more. Learn more. Revise your plan accordingly.
 

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Agreed. Not even enough info to recommend options for cam. Stage 5 TFS isn't going to be the best choice tho.

We don't know your goals for this project, nor the vehicle specifics. Do some research and post back.
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Agreed. Not even enough info to recommend options for cam. Stage 5 TFS isn't going to be the best choice tho.

We don't know your goals for this project, nor the vehicle specifics. Do some research and post back.
I guess that’s fair cause I haven’t really expressed my goal. Basically I know nothing about boosting an engine except for the fact that headstuds with multilayer gaskets is ideal. My vehicle is a 3850lbs 85 f150 with an AOD, 4:10s, and a stock 1992 351w block which will be running 91 octane fuel. I plan to push 10psi w/o intercooler. And looking around all the Trick flow products seem to be out of stock for quite awhile so now I’ve been looking at comp cams for a cam and AFR heads but not sure what size to go with. I’m going Clevite main and cam bearings, Fel-pro gaskets all around, and ARP mains, Engine bolts, and Head studs. Looking at Comps website the 35-601-8 “Mutha thumpr” hydraulic roller caught my eye with 107 lobe separation, 235 intake and 249 exhaust at .50, intake lift .522 and exhaust lift .526 so if anyone has an idea for heads to pair with those let me know. I also would like a forged rotating assembly but with stock stroke and control arm length. I’ve been looking at Scats rotating assembly kits but I’m not sure they’ll have one in-stock anytime soon either. I’m open to boring it out if anyone has any suggestions. Not trying to make the worlds fastest 351w, not interested in a larger stroke, just want a strong, good paired, efficient set up to hold boost in a stock block. Budget is irrelevant and I haven’t bought anything except for a bare 1992 351w block. If someone has a build list or any good pairing ideas I’m all ears.
 

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10psi without an intercooler is a bad idea. You have the room to run an intercooler so why not run one? That cam is not optimal at all. I'd consider (I'd actually buy) ProMAXX 180cc heads. 10 psi, intercooled, cam'd right with fuel and tune would be an easy 650hp+ setup. An AOD will struggle to hold that and survice long term without substantial modifications. WIll your suspension hold the new power level? Is your fuel system big enough to support that power level?

A stock crank rod and piston 351W, with proper fuel and tuning, can hold 700 hp. I can't stress how important tuning for the fuel you will run is or how important an intercooler is.

What induction do you plan on running? Blow through? MAF converted OEM Ford? Holley Terminator-X? Something else? The stock speed density system will object to what you plan to do.

The more you post, the more I question if you've given this much thought. I've been researching turbo setups for 3+ years because I "might" do one. Your approach so far tell sme you will spend a bunch of money and blow it up and/or roach the AOD. Probably both.
 

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I guess that’s fair cause I haven’t really expressed my goal. Basically I know nothing about boosting an engine except for the fact that headstuds with multilayer gaskets is ideal. My vehicle is a 3850lbs 85 f150 with an AOD, 4:10s, and a stock 1992 351w block which will be running 91 octane fuel. I plan to push 10psi w/o intercooler. And looking around all the Trick flow products seem to be out of stock for quite awhile so now I’ve been looking at comp cams for a cam and AFR heads but not sure what size to go with. I’m going Clevite main and cam bearings, Fel-pro gaskets all around, and ARP mains, Engine bolts, and Head studs. Looking at Comps website the 35-601-8 “Mutha thumpr” hydraulic roller caught my eye with 107 lobe separation, 235 intake and 249 exhaust at .50, intake lift .522 and exhaust lift .526 so if anyone has an idea for heads to pair with those let me know. I also would like a forged rotating assembly but with stock stroke and control arm length. I’ve been looking at Scats rotating assembly kits but I’m not sure they’ll have one in-stock anytime soon either. I’m open to boring it out if anyone has any suggestions. Not trying to make the worlds fastest 351w, not interested in a larger stroke, just want a strong, good paired, efficient set up to hold boost in a stock block. Budget is irrelevant and I haven’t bought anything except for a bare 1992 351w block. If someone has a build list or any good pairing ideas I’m all ears.
Worry about the cam after getting a basic rotating assembly and heads chosen. That's a heavy vehicle - getting a single turbo to spin up and provide 10 psi non-intercooled on 91 octane is going to be a challenge, if not impossible. I can say, you'll need lower compression to even attempt that, and a good cam that helps get the turbo spun up. Maybe a custom considering what you're asking for in a heavy-arse truck. Turbo cams typically have wider lobe separation (less overlap), especially whereas you have a heavy vehicle and you're gonna need all the torque you can get off the line and spin up a single turbo with the lower compression you'd need to even attempt without an intercooler.

AFR 185 - 205 heads should work, or I see Promaxx were suggested as I was typing this. Anything in this range that's not garbage china-cr** should work.

Don't worry about boring it any more, not going to help and the block may be maxed out at 0.040".
 

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Basically I know nothing about boosting an engine
did this truck run, or does it currently run in stock trim?

if not, why not?

what's your budget?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
10psi without an intercooler is a bad idea. You have the room to run an intercooler so why not run one? That cam is not optimal at all. I'd consider (I'd actually buy) ProMAXX 180cc heads. 10 psi, intercooled, cam'd right with fuel and tune would be an easy 650hp+ setup. An AOD will struggle to hold that and survice long term without substantial modifications. WIll your suspension hold the new power level? Is your fuel system big enough to support that power level?

A stock crank rod and piston 351W, with proper fuel and tuning, can hold 700 hp. I can't stress how important tuning for the fuel you will run is or how important an intercooler is.

What induction do you plan on running? Blow through? MAF converted OEM Ford? Holley Terminator-X? Something else? The stock speed density system will object to what you plan to do.

The more you post, the more I question if you've given this much thought. I've been researching turbo setups for 3+ years because I "might" do one. Your approach so far tell sme you will spend a bunch of money and blow it up and/or roach the AOD. Probably both.
I don’t plan on running an intercooler cause it’s just making a 1/4 pass than cooling off so I see no need for colder air I’m not worried about melting rings if I get it running and see issues building boost than I’ll put one in, AOD is 850hp rated, 1000hp rated fuel system, custom 4 link rear 9inch with qa1 coil-shocks Dana 44front axel again 4 link with qa1 suspension, gear driven tcase, solid ungreaseable u-joints etc. truck is caged, plastic windows, speed “holed” etc. I’m not worried about if anything will hold up cause it has so far with 800hp 460. I’m just trying to go with a lighter engine and trying to get into forced induction. It will be a blow through system. For the promaxx heads what camshaft would you suggest and yes the ****er is way heavier that I planned on it being lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
did this truck run, or does it currently run in stock trim?

if not, why not?

what's your budget?
Yes and no, it’s been through practice passes with no tree or speed trap so I don’t have an accurate pass time. However it has been driven around on the road 2500 miles as a daily lol I wanna build a small block for this coming season in fall, don’t have a budget the skys the limit
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Worry about the cam after getting a basic rotating assembly and heads chosen. That's a heavy vehicle - getting a single turbo to spin up and provide 10 psi non-intercooled on 91 octane is going to be a challenge, if not impossible. I can say, you'll need lower compression to even attempt that, and a good cam that helps get the turbo spun up. Maybe a custom considering what you're asking for in a heavy-arse truck. Turbo cams typically have wider lobe separation (less overlap), especially whereas you have a heavy vehicle and you're gonna need all the torque you can get off the line and spin up a single turbo with the lower compression you'd need to even attempt without an intercooler.

AFR 185 - 205 heads should work, or I see Promaxx were suggested as I was typing this. Anything in this range that's not garbage china-cr** should work.

Don't worry about boring it any more, not going to help and the block may be maxed out at 0.040".
So say I go balls to the walls and get the 205cc heads do those require notched pistons for valve clearance?
 

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So say I go balls to the walls and get the 205cc heads do those require notched pistons for valve clearance?
Most forged aftermarket pistons you'll be buying for this will have sufficient valve reliefs. Obviously it's something you have to check before you buy and when you're assembling the engine.
 

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Yes and no, it’s been through practice passes with no tree or speed trap so I don’t have an accurate pass time. However it has been driven around on the road 2500 miles as a daily lol I wanna build a small block for this coming season in fall, don’t have a budget the skys the limit
why not just add a turbo to the 460?

if you're really set on the 351W than i'd suggest getting a real block as factory block is questionable over 700ish to the tire, although frankly i'd start reading up on the fundamentals by reading bell's maximum boost or other turbocharging 101 articles/videos
 

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Discussion Starter #19
why not just add a turbo to the 460?

if you're really set on the 351W than i'd suggest getting a real block as factory block is questionable over 700ish to the tire, although frankly i'd start reading up on the fundamentals by reading bell's maximum boost or other turbocharging 101 articles/videos
I would’ve loved to turbo it but unfortunately the 460 is no longer with us lol

So what you’re saying is if I drop a forged rotating assembly into a N/A block the assembly would in theory out last the block itself? I’ll give the articles a read too thanks
 
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