[tjm73]

My brother has a 418W in a stock block that sees 7000rpm every single time he drives it. Last time it was apart for refresh/rebuild (mo powah!!) it had only the slightest evidence of cap walk. Nothing to even get concerned about.

 

[tjm73]

Internal or 28 oz balance?

Internal.

 

[tjm73]

A 351W put together with a decent set of heads, a good intake and well matched cam should put out 400 to 425 at the crank. It would be low stress and not a high RPM screamer. Any moderately well matched engine, IMO, should make an easy 1.2-1.25hp/CID on pump gas.

 

[tjm73]

How do you keep the power that low?

I say it should make that as a base minimum it should be able to put out with everything being on the "small side". If a 351W with ANY aluminum head, 9:1ish, a halfway decent cam and intake with a 750 had better make 425ish hp.

 

[tjm73]

I ran 99-100 every single run in an otherwise bone stock 90 GT convertible with 1.72 rockers and a B303 and full exhaust 25 years ago. 2.0-2.1x 60 foots. Suspension and practice would net the times you are talking about. Car was very consistent.

Suspension was 275/50 drag radials, a pinion snubber and 3.73's. OEM T5, Steeda Triax shifter.

Miss that in some ways. Simple. Reliable. Sounded good.

 

[tjm73]

That engine was flat out abused in it's former life.

 

[tjm73]

I'd strip it, send it to the machine shop to be checked. I'd clean it, extract all the broken bits, chase all holes, Then if it passed the check I'd have it machined and go from there. It's not a roller motor so no need to check the cam journals for cracks, but new bearings EVERYWHERE are a must in this pile to go forward IMO.

 

[tjm73]

Why does everyone avoid changing cam bearings? I've watched a friend change cam bearings a couple times.

 

[tjm73]

I would have expected worse damage, but I guess that exo-cage did it's job.