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looking into the 351 swap and need advice on some parts. for those of you have done the swap what heads, cam, and intake set ups did you use? looking for decent power gains and idle doesn't make a difference for me just trying to make some good memories with the kiddos. thanks
 

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Really? Mines is tight, but certainly not something I wouldn’t do again. I do run a aftermarket K-member. I will not argue that it is tight and frustrating at times. But definitely go for it.
 

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I had an s trim on my car in 1996, then a turbo from 98 to 2002. then the car sat due to college, marriage, life, ect. But i started working on a lot of NA stuff. I mean, i wouldnt want to put a turbo on a windsor, but it depends on how fast you go. if you are shooting for mid 8s with a turbo engine i would probably run a big bore 8.2. but you can run mid to low 9s on motor with the right windsor/clevor combo, and they are easy to work on without all that blower/turbo stuff on them. so it just depends on what you want to do. i know guys with NA 408s that are .4 and 6 mph slower in the 1/8th than the last NA 347 my RHS heads were on. but on the other hand, the last NA clevor we did with stock heads and stock windsor block was .2 and 5mph faster than that NA 347. So the real question is what is your goal? because there are a lot of ways to skin the cat.
 

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Who’s talking about turbos and mid 8’s??? Sounds like the guy just wants a N/A street car to have some fun with his kids.
And why not boost a Windsor?
 

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we need to know the goal. on motor you can pretty easily go as quick as mid 9s with off the shelf stuff using a windsor; or you can build a 358" clevor that runs high 10s on motor with stock block, crank, rods and some stock cleveland heads. for that a set of 2v heads would be fine and cheap. just depends on the goal.
 

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500-600 horses and budget have no business going together. That power level requires upgrading, well everything, I would think about 15-20k would cover it. A 351 with HCI swap might net you 350-400 at the tires, but even that will require supporting parts and get expensive.

What is your budget?
 
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did a $4500 408 carb to pan, probably 7 years ago that made over 600 flywheel on motor. but it was a lot of scavenging for used parts, and all the labor and fab work was done in the garage to keep the costs down. it was a stock 1980 windsor block, a $300 eagle 4340 crank off ebay, a set of used GRP rods that were $40 but worth the gamble, and a set of 408 flat tops that we had to cut the valve reliefs in. they were used off ebay for a couple hundred. then a set of $400 closed chamber, 4v 1971 iron casting stock cleveland heads, a chet herbert solid roller, some used old headers for a couple hundred, an old ford motorsport cleveland 9.2 deck single plane intake that we had to make spacer plates and a valley cover for, had to use the tfs clevor conversion neck, drilled the front and back of the heads for coolant flow, did the normal clevor mods to the heads and block. didnt prep the deck right and still used cometics, they sealed. but we also used copper coat and that wasnt supposed to work but did. it can be done, but its a lot of work.
 

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What are you working with now? Got a good running 5.0? Gears? Exhaust? The motor is just one step, then you need fuel system, transmission, rearend, ect. There's nothing really able to handle 500 hp reliably in the foxes stock. For 4-5k you can get the basics going, but think realistically for 300 at the tires. But it'll be faster then you would think.
 

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Mine is a fairly simple combo. Stock bore 351w roller block, stock crank, stock rods and DSS pistons. Ed Curtis custom grind cam, out of the box TFS twisted wedge 17o heads and Box-R intake. On top of that is a vortech S-trim. I built this on a pretty slim budget as others have said finding good deals on used parts. I never had any real clearance issues to speak of other than the blower hitting the hood and drop solid motor mounts fixed that for me. This is a blast to drive and I built it for the same reason you did-fun with the kiddos and it hasn't disappointed! Been together for going on 4 years now. Don't always have to spend big money to have some fun. Lots of little parts along the way like distributor, swap headers, oil pan, etc but honestly for me it was a worthwhile swap and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
 

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Mine is even simpler... lightning motor with a stock mustang roller cam and cobra roller rockers. The injectors are 24lb’ers. The mass air meter is calibrated to the injectors. Stock mustang computer... no special tune or anything. I pretty much daily drive it. I am gonna hook the a/c back up soon because the compressor is still there but no hoses. As far as the swap goes it is pretty straightforward, and has been covered many times before. If you’re looking for power adders and dyno numbers and time slips... I am not the guy to ask. But if you want an endorsement for swapping to a 351W for more power and more torque in a daily driver... Yes! Do it! I love mine.
 

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I'm trying to hit 500 to 600 horses, and keep good driveability. Budget-friendly minded. Sorry for the late reply crazy work schedule
I’m right around 500 with my 393 swapped notch. It’s possible. Just do cheap a stroker like mine and if you want to run pump gas you’ll need dished pistons. If you get flat tops compression will be super high and there goes driveablity out the window.. my 393 is right around 9:5:1 with je pistons and I’ll tell you that the 351w swap is totally worth it. A stroked 351w will move the rpm range down low instead of up high just because the 302 will have to rev higher to even make similar torque and power as the 351w. The potential is just higher with a 351 and it’s just way easier to make a street car because you can build a more tame engine and still make the power a 302 would if it were maxed to its potential. But then the problem of a transmission comes in. My t5 is holdling on for dear life. If you wanna do a 351 swap I highly recommend a top loader of swapping to manual.
 

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I'm trying to hit 500 to 600 horses, and keep good driveability. Budget-friendly minded. Sorry for the late reply crazy work schedule
I’m right around 500 with my 393 swapped notch. It’s possible. Just do cheap a stroker like mine and if you want to run pump gas you’ll need dished pistons. If you get flat tops compression will be super high and there goes driveablity out the window.. my 393 is right around 9:5:1 with je pistons and I’ll tell you that the 351w swap is totally worth it. A stroked 351w will move the rpm range down low instead of up high just because the 302 will have to rev higher to even make similar torque and power as the 351w. The potential is just higher with a 351 and it’s just way easier to make a street car because you can build a more tame engine and still make the power a 302 would if it were maxed to its potential. But then the problem of a transmission comes in. My t5 is holdling on for dear life. If you wanna do a 351 swap I highly recommend a top loader of swapping to manual.
*swapping to auto.*
 

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I’m right around 500 with my 393 swapped notch. It’s possible. Just do cheap a stroker like mine and if you want to run pump gas you’ll need dished pistons. If you get flat tops compression will be super high and there goes driveablity out the window.. my 393 is right around 9:5:1 with je pistons and I’ll tell you that the 351w swap is totally worth it. A stroked 351w will move the rpm range down low instead of up high just because the 302 will have to rev higher to even make similar torque and power as the 351w. The potential is just higher with a 351 and it’s just way easier to make a street car because you can build a more tame engine and still make the power a 302 would if it were maxed to its potential. But then the problem of a transmission comes in. My t5 is holdling on for dear life. If you wanna do a 351 swap I highly recommend a top loader of swapping to manual.
Just curious, I have 10.7:1 compression in my 428W with flat-top pistons, why does this make drivability go out the window?
 
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