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Gents,

I'm doing a 351w swap into a SN95 chassis. I intend to run the MegaSquirt 3 EFI . However, one thing I can find no information on is the crank trigger.

For those who have done the 351w swap, and kept it fuel injected. How did you do it? Did you use a crank trigger?

Cheers,
-Matt
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Crank trigger is great. Are you planning to run a Megajolt or EDIS? Late model Explorers and Mountaineers from '96-01 have 5.0L engines with crank trigger. If you decide to use the setup you'll need the entire front accessory dress (which I believe is the most compact ever designed by Ford, so it might fit well in the SN95 chassis). The 36-1 wheel is built into the balancer, I believe. The timing cover has a provisions for mounting a matching VR type crank sensor. Note that if you intend to run sequential injection that there's a difference in the cam sync sensors in those trucks. '96-98 employed a Hall effect style 3-pin sensor and the later models from '99-01 used a VR type 2-pin sensor.

For my 351W I ended up fabricating a 36-1 wheel that mounts behind the crank pulley. Since it spaced it out by 1/8" I also had to fabricate accessory bracket spacers that go between the cylinder head and accessory brackets. Made a custom VR sensor mount for the crank sensor too. As far as the cam sync for sequential injection, I used the Price Motorsports option, but you can combine parts from a 3.8L V6 (Windstar van or similar) and the Explorer 5.0 cam sync. You need the housing from the 5.0 and the shaft from the 3.8 for the 351W. The 351W cam sync will also fit 351C, 351M, and 400M engines too.

This thread should be in the EEC section!
 

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The crank trigger set up is not necessary to run a standard efi set up with a distributer unless you want to do the coil on plug set up. I run the MSPNP2 and the set up it works just fine for a 351 stroker in a 94.
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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For my 408 I'm running EEC-V (CDAN4 strategy) with integral EDIS8, integral 4R70W transmission controller, and sequential injection.
 

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Howdy,

I did mine a little different than Shaker.

I used a DIY 36-1 crank trigger wheel ( 6 3/4" 36-1 Trigger Wheel DIYAutoTune.com ) and mounted it between the front of the balancer and the pulley.

Since I'm using a '97 EEC-V 4.6 ECU I used the crank sensor from a '97 4.6 and fabed a mount to hold the sensor.

For the cam sensor I modified a MSD cam plu sync ( no longer made ) from a Hall effect to a VR sensor and used a cam VR from a '97 4.6 as well.

I've got mine "on the road" more or less ( it's still a go-cart ) and I'm happy with the way it runs expect for cold starts after it's sat a day or two.

Paul
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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You know, I'm really surprised that no one makes a 36-1 trigger wheel kit that just works on a small block Ford. BTW, spacing everything forward 1/8" isn't an option for everyone either, although that is a very doable method of adding a trigger wheel (between the damper and the crank pulley).
 
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You know, I'm really surprised that no one makes a 36-1 trigger wheel kit that just works on a small block Ford. BTW, spacing everything forward 1/8" isn't an option for everyone either, although that is a very doable method of adding a trigger wheel (between the damper and the crank pulley).
Are you referring to me? If so I did not space mine forward at all because I would have had to space all my acc.. I had the wheel machined to slide up over the pulley and then welded it to the pulley so that it did not have to go between the balancer and the pulley. Hope this makes since. It was very simple and the only fabbing was making a brackett to hold the trigger wheel.
Here is the wheel



And here is the brackett



I have been running this setup now for several years with no problems. And now with a turbo and had zero problems. In fact I have been Daliy Driven the car for the last couple months
 

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This is the route i went, I did not want to move anything close to the radiator on my car so i had ATI put magnets in my balancer and used a holley HAL effect sensor to read the signal. I used a dual sync distributor as a cam sensor and everything is fired by ls truck coils. Now price motorsports makes a HAL effect cam sensor so i would go that route if i was doing it over.

 

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I did the something similar as 92LX on my 302, cut the center out of the trigger wheel and welded it to the rear of the pulley. Local machine shop charged me $30 to have it balanced. Made a bracket for the sensor and welded it to one of the alternator spacers.
 

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Indo-Canuck-Yankee
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Are you referring to me? If so I did not space mine forward at all because I would have had to space all my acc.. I had the wheel machined to slide up over the pulley and then welded it to the pulley so that it did not have to go between the balancer and the pulley. Hope this makes since. It was very simple and the only fabbing was making a brackett to hold the trigger wheel.
....
I have been running this setup now for several years with no problems. And now with a turbo and had zero problems. In fact I have been Daliy Driven the car for the last couple months
Sorry, no I wasn't referring to you. I mean that I have actually got EDIS8 working on my 408 and I used the 1/8" spacing everything out method because it was simple and easy to do in that situation. In retrofitting EDIS8 to my Kenne Bell 306 I can't do this because the blower and pulley doesn't lend itself to being spaced forward. I'll end up doing what you ended up doing... fastening the 36-1 wheel to the pulley most likely this time around.
 
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