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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I'm going to switch setups and want some info on 351C

I have used a 351 based 393 with a YSI Vortech and ran near 800hp 5.90 in the 1/8th. Ended up with a cracked block eventually.

What if I ran this on a 351C 4 bolt main set up?

What block do I need? I guess 351C came with a factory 4 bolt main and if so what year?

What heads would I need? I ran my 393W off of old Iron Windsor SR heads with no work.

I will blow thorough carb again but may use E85 this time.

I want a strong foundation for near 1000hp but think I can do it this route. What do you think?
 

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You'll crack the block again. 351C has nasty core shift, and tends to crack the cylinders right down the middle under extremely high stress. Keep the bores as thick as possible to help alleviate this.

ALL 351C blocks are the same. 70-71 blocks were 4 bolt, but not all of them. You can get a set of main caps and have ANY block drilled and tapped for 4 bolt mains. Castings are all the same.

2 bolt and 4 bolt mains are the same strength. 351C has very wide main registers, which prevents cap walk. No real advantage in traditional 4 bolt mains on that application. Modern "splayed" 4 bolt mains may be an advantage, however.

My suggestion would be to go over to:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/1365...nks+to+Tod+Buttermore's+Cleveland+Block+Posts

And talk to Tom. He's making NEW 351C blocks, superior to the originals. Dunno what delivery dates are on it, he's kinda a one man operation.
 

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Your Windsor heads have the water jackets drilled in different location than a "cleveland" block. For simplicity and time saving you should look into a DART block. Way cheaper and with your combo you won't break it. You won't find a factory production block that will live long for your application.
 

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You'll crack the block again. 351C has nasty core shift, and tends to crack the cylinders right down the middle under extremely high stress. Keep the bores as thick as possible to help alleviate this.

ALL 351C blocks are the same. 70-71 blocks were 4 bolt, but not all of them. You can get a set of main caps and have ANY block drilled and tapped for 4 bolt mains. Castings are all the same.

2 bolt and 4 bolt mains are the same strength. 351C has very wide main registers, which prevents cap walk. No real advantage in traditional 4 bolt mains on that application. Modern "splayed" 4 bolt mains may be an advantage, however.

My suggestion would be to go over to:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/1365...nks+to+Tod+Buttermore's+Cleveland+Block+Posts

And talk to Tom. He's making NEW 351C blocks, superior to the originals. Dunno what delivery dates are on it, he's kinda a one man operation.
The man's name is Tod, and his block will do it. but a Dart block may be cheeper.
 

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You'll crack the block again. 351C has nasty core shift, and tends to crack the cylinders right down the middle under extremely high stress. Keep the bores as thick as possible to help alleviate this.
The core shift is not as bad on some blocks as others. From what we've seen, the 2 bolt blocks have the worst. Why this is I don't know. We have sleeved several blocks due to rust damage. During the boring for the sleeves, the boring bar would cut into the water jacket on the 2 bolt blocks. Haven't seen that on the 4 bolt blocks for some reason. It's a good idea to pour the water jackets half full of block filler on either to help strengthen the cylinders.
 

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Okay I'm going to switch setups and want some info on 351C

I have used a 351 based 393 with a YSI Vortech and ran near 800hp 5.90 in the 1/8th. Ended up with a cracked block eventually.

What if I ran this on a 351C 4 bolt main set up?

What block do I need? I guess 351C came with a factory 4 bolt main and if so what year?

What heads would I need? I ran my 393W off of old Iron Windsor SR heads with no work.

I will blow thorough carb again but may use E85 this time.

I want a strong foundation for near 1000hp but think I can do it this route. What do you think?

Your best bet is to go with an aftermarket 2 bolt 351W block. the Motorsport Sportsman III 351W block is a very good block and costs around than $1200. If your on a budget, you can use a pair of 4 barrel open chamber heads for your blow through setup and this block will hold the power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What about 460 based with decent heads or even stock I bet would flow more then my Windsor Sr's. I think I can make the power on a 1972W block with 4 bolt mains so wouldn't it be easier on a production 4 bolt main block and maybe one with more cubes and block strength like a 460 setup? I don't need many RPM's to get the boost like 6500 at the most and 20lbs of boost. I think it just could be done with a beefier block and good internals and decent flowing heads and a lot of boost is all?
 

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Your best bet is to go with an aftermarket 2 bolt 351W block. the Motorsport Sportsman III 351W block is a very good block and costs around than $1200. If your on a budget, you can use a pair of 4 barrel open chamber heads for your blow through setup and this block will hold the power.
Wow hey on that combo 351w block 4v h.o c heads with a blow threw carb is that a good combo ive got 2 sets of them heads and a built 351wand just got my first pro charger 1500sl.ive got a 351c in my old car now no pro charger but built a 351w solid lift flat tapet and top 60 over a long time ago .never run just wondering could i get some good hp out of that combo u think
 

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Some blocks have a less severe core shift than others. According to our observations, the two bolt blocks have the poorest. I'm not sure why this is the case. Due of rust deterioration, we sleeved numerous blocks. The boring bar would cut into the water jacket on the two bolt blocks during the boring for the sleeves. For whatever reason, I haven't observed that on the 4 bolt blocks. Pour half a cup of block filler into either water jacket to help strengthen the cylinders.
 
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