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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i AM LOOKING INTO DOING A 408 STROKER MOTOR. FOR THE STREET MOSTLY. i AM LOOKING FOR ABOUT 650 ON THE GAS. i WAS WONDERING WHAT TO ACTUALLY GO WITH. SHOULD I GO WITH A PRE-BUILT SHORTBLOCK FROM A COMPANY OR HAVE SOMEONE BUILD ONE SPECIFICALLY FOR ME? sHOULD I GO CARB OR EFI. i HEARD IT WAS HARD TO TUNE SUCH A BIG EFI MOTOR? iS THAT TRUE? iF CARB WHAT INTAKE, HEADS, AND NITROUS CAM?
 

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My thoughts....

AFR205-AFR 225's, Super Victor, Carb of your choice, large exhaust don't choke it 2" headers, 3" exh min, FTI custom grind..... Depends how Streetable you want it and what compression ratio you go. Most flat top pistons will bring you out over 12:1 so you'll need a dish piston to get it down to 10.5:1 or lower.

I personally suggest getting a kit and then assembling it yourself or have a local shop do the work....

If you want to go EFI I would go 50# inj, EFI Super Vic Spyder, 80-90mm TB, 4" intake tubing, 80mm Pro-M, and you should have some type of tuner, PMS, EPEC, FAST, etc...
 

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I love mine, its easy to keep it EFI.
I am making about 465 RWHP now.
200 shot and I am at 665ish RWHP.
If you wanted to go crazy.
90mm T-body.
AFR 225
Spyder intake, SUPER VIC.
Solid Roller
You could make 550RWHP, but you loose the street part of the deal.
 

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If your going to buy from a company... do some research about the company first. There are some very good companies out there. Do not buy stuff off ebay, you get what you pay for. Internally stick with scat parts. Heads, cam, intake... just decide what you like. I stuck with all TFS stuff on my stroker.

SVT
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what i mean by streetable is... drive the car around town, to church, and mainly street racing. I mean i want about 650 to the ground on about 150 shot of gas. I know i am going to go with a CHP super spyder intake and afr 225 heads. I was thinking about going bennet racing billet stroker kit. I was wondering what kind of block i should go with and if these motors have cooling problems. I have an aluminum griffin radiator in my car and thinking about going meziere electric water pump. are there any other down sides?
 

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So basically what you are telling us is you want a race car that can be driven on the street. This is just fine.. it's just that the setup is usually completely different than a street car that is raced.

Your top end sounds good. For the bottom end I would use a Dart block with 4340 internals. You don't need billet. If you are set on having it built mail order, Bennett is a good choice.

Electric water pumps are just fine on the street. Use the normal one and not the high flow version... the motors are rated at a few thousand hours and are replaceable by themselves so it's not too bad if one burns out after a couple years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was also wondering if a r block is as good as a dart block. whould i go with a 408 or a 393? I was also wondering if you could get a main girdle for a 4 bolt main block. any other people with information that could help me please post any information that you can.
 

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Get the Dart block. It will handle 3 times the power you'll be puting down. You won't need a girdle with a dart block. I'd go with the 4.125" bore Dart and 4340 internals. If you're starting from scratch do the 408 not the 393. If you alredy have parts laying around then do the 393. A 408 kit with 4.125 pistons will net you 427ci. The AFR 225s are a great choice, that's what my 393 is wearing.
 

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He really does not need to go to a 4.125" bore on a street car, that will waste a good bit of the block for future issues.

As mentioned you don't run a girdle with a Dart block or any other 4 bolt block. The Motorsport 351 blocks are also strong, they have Siamease and Non Siamease available. Both blocks are also available with Clevland mains, personally I do that to take some of the bearing surface area away.

Not to scare you away but you are looking at over $10,000 in mods to do this project depending on what parts an block you use even more! The drivetrain, chassis and suspension need to be good as well for this type of motor....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i understand the money thats involved thats no problem. I am running a tko, aluminum driveshaft, auburn locker, 31 spline axles, megabite senior uppers, heavy duty lowers, drag launch kit with airbag, 50/50 & 90/10'S, sub frames, and soon to be a cage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
what is the difference between a sportsman siamese and non siamese. when it comes to the heads... do they need to be worked? i know that the afr 225's are a flowing head out of the box but?
 

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Sportsman is a beefier 2 bolt main block, Siamease cylinders do not have coolant that go around them, the Non Siamease do (like a stock motor), you'll want the Non for the street to avoid any colling issues. The DART block is great.....

The AFR's out of the box should get you to your goal, however a little work on the exhaustand or hardware depending on the entore combo and cam would help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright i am really appreciating everyones help on this and now i have a few more questions. What does it mean to get a block o-ringed and what does it exactly do for you? I was also wondering if my friends dad has a 69 351 block should i use that or go with the dart just in case. everyone is saying to use a 3 or 4 inch tubing up to the intake but where do i get that from and is it something i'll have to custom make for the motor? i would like to hear anyones opinions on anything
 

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The 69 block is strong but the DART is much better, if you have the money go DART from the beginning and never worry about breaking it.

O-rings the heads or block means a groove is cut into the surface and either filled with a stainless steel wire (block) and using a soft gasket or copper head gasket. In the head you need to using a lock wire head gasket. I suggest just using a good quality head gasket like a Cometic, very strong and no need to o-ring the block or head.

You can buy the 4" rubber elbows and tubing and make it yourself or AFM sells a 4" power pipe.

Here's a pic of my old 302 set-up using a 4" AFM pipe..

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alright so o-ringing the block is not necessary if you go with a good head gasket like you said. the AFM power pipe is fine but i was wondering how you run your filter through your fenderwell. I was also wondering if you knew if MSD made a distributor for a fuel injected super victor intake because i konw they make one for the vistoc intake. i was laos wondering who made your valve covers in that picture.
 
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