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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I have an update on the 347. Today I went to work marking and notching the block. I am using I beams so the notches I think are less severe than some of the H beams require. I notched the lower part of the cylinders, about .25" deep on the oil pan side, for clearance of the cap screws and about .125" on the camshaft side for clearance of the beam, right where the big end tapers into the shaft. That side was kindof optional, I had clearance to begin with, but I wanted enough to not have to worry. I then put it back together to check it out and found a couple of places that I wanted to take off a little more material. I'll do that another day. I also noticed there's a little tab that sticks into the engine from around the oil pump boss, which must be clearanced as well. Make sure you look for that on your engine if you're notching. I mocked it up by using the rod and crank, but no piston as the bores have not been opened up for them yet.

In the middle of all of this, I was cleaning the block and reoiling it. I've fouind that every time i clean it, it gets cleaner. The oil has just saturated that block and more comes off every time. I've cleaned it 3 times already, and I just now found some paint marks in the lifter valley. Orange Blast by Greased Lightning works great. WD40 is what I'm using to displace water and oil the block.

It's coming along slowly...

Billy
 

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Ive allready had my block bored and honed before doing the notching like an idiot.....b/c I thought I was only gonna go with a 331.....I hope I dont run into problems....im going to have my machinist do the notching....
 

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i notched mine with a dremel after bore and hone, no problems
 

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I used a shop that builds lots of 347s, I had them do it all the block prep. I did not want the hassle. ;);)

Actually, I dropped off my bare 302 roller block and took home the bare CNCd roller block with main support and ARP studs that the shop had in stock ( they did hone it for my SRP pistons). The machinist did ALL my block prep. I did one final cleaning and it was good to assemble. Took about 10 days to get the rotating assembly balanced.

You want around .060-.070 clearance in the bore notches.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The number I heard was .050 clearance. I have alot more than that, which is why I said the cam side notches were optional. By the way, some of the main, cam, and rod bearings looked pretty bad. I didn't have any knocks, but I would guess I could have developed one at any time. I think the cam bearings were bad due to stabbing so many cams over the years. All the more reason to go with the right cam the first time (custom or a very well thought out shelf).

Billy
 

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I'm new to the mustang owners and when I rebuild the engine I've been thinking of building a stroker. What do you mean by notching the cylinders? Billy what stroker kit did you go with? Thanks
 

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Either or is fine for the rod bolt clearance, I feel more comfy with a smidgen more. Can't hurt anything with a flexible cast crank or a novice engine builder. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
93featurelx said:
I'm new to the mustang owners and when I rebuild the engine I've been thinking of building a stroker. What do you mean by notching the cylinders? Billy what stroker kit did you go with? Thanks
I got a Scat 9000 crank, Scat 4340 I beams, and SRP flat taps from Brain at www.Adperformance.com. He's also known as "Eagle" on this board.
Billy
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update:

I pulled all the freeze plugs today, which was EASY. Just knock them in with a punch and pull them out with pliers. The block drains sucked! The smaller one (3/16" hex) was brass and came out, but the two steel ones (1/4" hex) were frozen in. I ended up having to drill them out and pull them with an extractor. What a PITA!
 

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Can you post some pics of the notching?
 

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I have a whole disposable camera and half another one filled with pics of my 347 short block build, and installing the new springs/seals on the TFS heads that need to get developed, scanned and uploaded. I'll have it up by the weekend I hope.
 
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