[Nitrous SSC]

Mine has lived for a long time. I've done 4 open track day's where the car will go 60-80 minutes and not being lower than 3500rpm and wide open. Including 5th gear pulls to 150-155 on the main straight at Miller Motorsports Park. Also I've autocrossed several events, ran out at the salt flats, 1/4 mile track 2-3 times a year, and typically drive the crap out of it once a week up a few canyon roads. I've had this current shortblock for about 7 years now. I put about 3k a year on the car. Whenever someone tells me they did a 331, I don't get it. (unless you have a specific CI class to be in)

And yes, I'm pushing my luck with a stock block. Open track I do run a slightly smaller 9-10psi pulley and 10.5:1 A/F tune. Probably would dyno about 520ish rwhp for my open track settings.

 

[jeffskar]

I've wondered why they still sell/bother with a 331, if a 347 is just as robust.

 

[Enjoy_the_Ride]

this is just an observation/ opinion, but it seems like the thrust side of the stroker cylinders seems to take more abuse.


That's why I went with a 331, to minimize the thrust side wear.

 

[289nate]

You will have to turn more rpm with a 331 to match the power of a 347. A typical 347 piston will be lighter than a 331 piston. I don't see any real world benefit to the 331 compared to a 347.

 

[fast_frank_d]

No one has mentioned the requirement to clearance the block for a 347 stroke, vs. not required for 331. Some people prefer the plug and play assembly of the 331. Has the 347 clearance requirement gone away with some new rod design or something?

Frank

 

[ZSR]

No one has mentioned the requirement to clearance the block for a 347 stroke, vs. not required for 331. Some people prefer the plug and play assembly of the 331. Has the 347 clearance requirement gone away with some new rod design or something?

Frank

No the standard clearancing is still required. It's really no big deal but I have heard the same thing from customers in the past

 

[strokeme]

It depends on the rod design and height of the capscrew. Clearancing the bottom of each cylinder is a 15 minute ordeal, its not some lengthy or expensive operation

 

[Goody_Seven]

My wifes Coast High 347 short block turned over 100k miles (her only car for about 7 years, then spent about 3 years at 400whp). It was about 375hp (320whp) most of its life, eventually done in by a big end rod failure. It had the cheapest rods available, they were the bolt and nut style.

 

[fast_frank_d]

It depends on the rod design and height of the capscrew. Clearancing the bottom of each cylinder is a 15 minute ordeal, its not some lengthy or expensive operation

Yes, 15 minutes for an experienced builder that already knows it needs to be done... and knows how much to take off... and exactly where.

However, someone that's asking questions on the fundamental differences between stroker kits would not discover this until he has half the rotating assembly installed, and then he has to decide if he wants to make metal chips with it in there, or take it back out... And he still has to identify the location of 8 notches with or without the interfering parts installed, then clean it up and put it all back in. That sounds more like half a day, so I think its worth mentioning for less experienced builders reading this.

Frank

 

[dstolarc]

Does having main studs with a main stud girdle help to keep the block from splitting?

dstolarc

 

[strokeme]

Main studs help to prevent the main caps from walking and chattering.

 

[BlackCoupe]

It's my understanding that the 302 roller blocks tend to split in the lifter valley. If this is correct then a girdle isn't going to make much, if any, difference to reliability. That said, I put one on the motor I put in my car, I figure it was cheap enough that it couldn't hurt.

 

[strokeme]

It's my understanding that the 302 roller blocks tend to split in the lifter valley. If this is correct then a girdle isn't going to make much, if any, difference to reliability. That said, I put one on the motor I put in my car, I figure it was cheap enough that it couldn't hurt.

The cracks start at the main bolt holes from the caps chattering. If you see a lifter valley split, its the result of, not the starting point. The cracks go from the main bolt holes, to the cam tunnel, then the lifter valley

 

[wytwolf]

Save the worry, save some money and find a good aftermarket block. Then build whatever the hell you want! I found a virgin Dart IE(all 5 mains 4 bolt) for $1700. It's a 4.00" bore, so I'm going 331 as I got a 3.25" crank and rods as well. Everyone wants to say go big bore, but I don't see the point when I have a fresh block. I can run this block for the next 50 years and never wear it out.

 

[COP TZR]

Stop overthinking and stop trying to convince yourself to save money and everything will be fine. If you only have so much money and no interest in spending more down the road, keep it mild, keep it safe. If you have some money, but will have more in the future and have time to mess around, than build what you can and upgrade with better parts as you go and test what type of combo you like. If you have a bunch of money and want to do it right and do it once, go with better stuff.

306 vs 331 vs 347 factory 'XXX' block - asked over a million times I'm sure by now
306, cheap and easy
331, for those scared to go all out
347, for those who want the most

what size is best, who knows.
will a girdle help, only to keep parts together when it blows.

For the previous 10 replies, I have sitting on my floor:
302 'XXX' block
forged girdled balanced 331
6000km street km
cap walk - yes
future type of use - door stop

 

[86mustang408w]

Have Woody build you a Dart or equivalent 363, and you won't have to worry about anything but getting it freshened up depending on what you do with it.

 

[dstolarc]

I'm really curious what the OP ended up doing. I wonder how happy he has been with his decision.

I'm going tomorrow to meet with a reputable shop about 45 minutes from me. That may not sound like very far at all but I will be going past a few shops to get there. The one shop I have dealt with before is about 6 minutes from me. In fact I worked there 5 years ago. I still have a great rapport there but like what I'm finding out about this farther away place.
They build engines and claim he can do one in 4 to 5 weeks. They do there own work in house and use many brand name suppliers. The same name stuff we have discussed in this thread. The time frame really interests me. I would get a short block from them, heads from Woody and cam from Ed. A spread the wealth approach.
While the block and rotating assy are being machined, I can order the heads and cam and have everything ready to assemble in about a month or so.
Shipping the short block won't be needed so that saves money and time. From what the owner has said I get a price break because my good friend Jerome works there. I'll get Jeromes's employee price.
Tomorrow when I sit down with the owner I'll find out exactly what it will cost in writing. No here say bs. As much as I want to order from Woody and have been ready to pull the trigger, I need to see what others can do for me. If there machines look good and machinists answer all my questions honestly, I may sign on the dotted line. I really want to talk to them about a super accurate balance job. Also see what warranty they give on their assembled short blocks. I have a list of operations Woody performs and want to compare it to their list of operations.

Ok it's late and I'm rambling. Time to go to sleep. They open at 9:30 AM.

Goodnight.
dstolarc

 

[cleanLX]

306, cheap and easy

guess that depends on how it's built.

 

[dstolarc]

Update. I went to the speed shop and talked to the owner.
I found out they don't do the machine work in house. In fact, they send it to the place 6 minutes from home where I used to work
In the end, his price for a short block would be more money.
BUT, He did give me a good price (I think) on a New Dart 347 short block.
It would only take a week to get. $3823
The thing I noticed is it says it has forged rods, forged flat top pistons and
"high quality cast steel crank".
How much hp can the Dart short block with a cast crank put out safely?
N/A no boost or Nos. Can it handle 500 without issue?
Everyone says get a Dart, but it comes with a cast crank?
I'm sure the block is stiffer and won't allow the crank to flex like a stock block
will. I'm just surprised it has a cast crank...

dstolarc

 

[GilroyRacing]

Don't go cast crank in a dart block.

Go forged, internally balanced crank.