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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of building a stock block, crank, and rods 306 street engine for my 93 GT

Here is what I have done so far:
-Fully machined block and balanced rotating assembly with Trick Flow (Wiseco) +2cc pistons. The rods have been resized. Block has been decked .005". I figure it will have approx 10:1 compression. I assembled the bottom end and measured all the bearing clearances with a micrometer and bore gauge. I also used Speed Pro plasma moly 1.5mm file fit rings and 3mm standard tension oil rings.

-ARP main bolts, rod bolts, and head bolts. I believe the rocker studs are ARP

-Jones Cam Designs camshaft and drop in hydraulic roller lifters installed and degreed to his spec.
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-Summit 9-way adjustable roller timing chain set.

-Mid 90's TFS TW170 62cc heads. They have been surfaced .005" to get the slight warp out, ported, new valves and viton installed. 9333pt1 head gaskets

-Power Bond SFI 50oz harmonic balancer

-Explorer intake with EGR. I'm planning on sending the upper and lower to Tmoss to have his shop work his magic.

-Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 ratio 7/16 stud roller rockers (ordered), and then I can get the pushrods measured once they arrive.

-Standard flow and pressure Melling oil pump with ARP oil pump driveshaft

-JBA Cat4ward headers, BBK Xpipe with cats and Borla catback exhaust

-Canton stock appearance drag race 5qt oil pan.

I have a Moates QH with Binary Editor for when this engine is ready to be tuned.

I'm stuck on which injectors, MAF and throttle body I should get. I know I want the Pro-M 75mm Bullet MAF, and was thinking 36lb Holley injectors or Deka 60's. I was also looking at either the 70mm SVE throttle body and EGR plate, or BBK 70mm. I like Accufab, but I don't want a polished TB. I would also like to keep the stock air filter housing and duct for simplicity and stock appearance.

Are there any suggestions you all have? Is there anyone here that could write a base tune once I decide which injectors, MAF, and TB? Should I get the MAF with matching injectors? Would that make a tune easier?

This engine will remain naturally aspirated and I'm contemplating a 125hp NOS 05115 dry kit.

So what do you all think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't have a tuner currently. In my first post I asked if there was anyone here that can do a base tune remotely. Where I live is a bit of a desert when it comes to shops like that. If it isn't a diesel, new Mustang, or import nobody wants to deal with it.

I've also asked on eectuning and efidynotuning with no responses. I guess I'll try to figure it out myself.
 

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This set up doesn't need a chip or custom tune. The stock ECU would work just fine. 24lb or 30lb injectors with a calibrated maf and an adjustable FPR and find a Dyno shop and dial in the air fuel at wot and enjoy. BBK T-body over a SVE for sure. The dry nitrous kits add fuel pressure when the bottle is on.
 

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Ran my old N/A 302 with 12.5 comp, n111 cam, at 8000+ rpm with a stock A9L, no tune or chip for YEARS. No problems with idle, cruising, cold start etc….also ran no O2 sensors, BAP, IAC, EGR, but I ran it with distributor spout removed to bypass the factory rev-limit and ran locked timing. Also with a single nitrous shot

A9L/A9P’s are unbelievably forgiving….to a point.

I will say C&L meters seem to work a bit better on computers with stock tunes. If you want or have to get it tuned GOOD tuners do not like to work with C&L. Pro-M is the better meter hands down.
 
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With a Pro-M mass air meter matched to the injectors it'll start up and run good, a proper tune will just make it run gooder. I'd go with an 80MM Pro-M minimum, and at least a 75MM throttle body. Once you get close to getting it running PM me and I can send you a tune to get you going.
 
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Will a 80mm MAF fit the stock intake duct?
Never tried it myself, missed the part about the stock airbox. You are limiting yourself though, this set up in the pic is easy and fairly cheap to do, and will make better use of the other parts in your setup.
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If you want to retain the stock air box then just run an unflanged mass air meter (C&L 76mm), or an unflanged pro-m but I think they only go up to 75mm bullet but that will be plenty for this setup as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I looked up some CFM figures for 70mm accufab TB, 75mm MAF, and a ported Explorer intake as well as did a calculation for maximum CFM of a 306cid engine assuming 100% VE (I know in reality it would be around .8 to .85) as a absolute best case scenario.

So a 306 engine at 100% VE will flow 548CFM at 6200 rpm.

Accufab 70mm TB flows 787CFM
Pro-M 75mm Maf flows 964CFM from what I can find.
And an Explorer intake at best flows 210CFM at each runner?

So, seeing all that. A 75mm MAF and 70mm Tab will flow far more than the engine will at 6200rpm.

What would the main benefit of a 75mm TB and 80mm MAF be?
 
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