Ford Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 86 5.0 Hatch.The T5 in it had 168k on it. When the engine was running it was completely stock down to the air box and the T5 shifted great. No grinding or anything. Should I rebuild it or just leave it be for now? But for the new engine. I’m planning on building the internals stock and doing a HOLLEY SYSTEMAX INTAKE MANIFOLD, BBK 76mm MAM,65mm BBK throttle body And BBK inner finder cold air intake and long tube headers with flow masters. Or do y’all have any other recommendations for the build or anything. Should I rebuild it with a cam for around the same price and keep all stock intake or just build it with an intake
Thank y’all.

I don’t have a ton of money. Due to being a college student. Should I spend the money set aside for the enginr upgrades on the trans Or just let it be for now and see what happens
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,568 Posts
If you have access to a press you can rebuild the t5 for around 500$ with all Tremec parts. I've rebuilt a few, they are very easy to do. I would recommend adding a counter gear billet bearing retainer. The countershaft has a tendency to get loose over time. A billet plate eliminates that possibility. Since it's not grinding you most likely will just need to replace all the bearings, keys, springs, pads and syncros which are all included in the Tremec master kit. Ericthecarguy on youtube has a 2 video series for disassembly and rebuild. I'll post links to videos and the parts kit i use later At an absolute minimum I'd do the bearing retainer and then you can check tolerances on your syncros. 2nd gear is the most common syncro to go bad followed by 3rd.

Intake and cam will help wake it up. You'll need valve springs for a better cam. If you're on a budget, the explorer intake from 96-01 explorer is a good choice, it also cheap and plentiful. You can also do 3bar gt40 heads too if you can find some. Those are also on explorers. I'd avoid the gt40p heads as the plug angle causes issues with headers. If you end up with gt40 heads look into fti cams for gt40 heads and intake. He makes one specific for gt40 setups with long tubes. Alexs parts for valve springs. You have to call them to get springs, nothing shows in stock right now but they will allow you to order springs if you call them. I got springs for my gt40s through then a few months ago.
 

·
Registered
1986 Mustang 5.0 5 speed coupe
Joined
·
1,211 Posts
If you have access to a press you can rebuild the t5 for around 500$ with all Tremec parts. I've rebuilt a few, they are very easy to do. I would recommend adding a counter gear billet bearing retainer. The countershaft has a tendency to get loose over time. A billet plate eliminates that possibility. Since it's not grinding you most likely will just need to replace all the bearings, keys, springs, pads and syncros which are all included in the Tremec master kit. Ericthecarguy on youtube has a 2 video series for disassembly and rebuild. I'll post links to videos and the parts kit i use later At an absolute minimum I'd do the bearing retainer and then you can check tolerances on your syncros. 2nd gear is the most common syncro to go bad followed by 3rd.

Intake and cam will help wake it up. You'll need valve springs for a better cam. If you're on a budget, the explorer intake from 96-01 explorer is a good choice, it also cheap and plentiful. You can also do 3bar gt40 heads too if you can find some. Those are also on explorers. I'd avoid the gt40p heads as the plug angle causes issues with headers. If you end up with gt40 heads look into fti cams for gt40 heads and intake. He makes one specific for gt40 setups with long tubes. Alexs parts for valve springs. You have to call them to get springs, nothing shows in stock right now but they will allow you to order springs if you call them. I got springs for my gt40s through then a few months ago.
If that's the original 86 shortblock, it has true flat top pistons with ZERO valve reliefs which drastically reduces PTV clearance when it comes to a cam swap. I've personally done 4 GT40P head swaps using MAC and BBK longtubes with zero plugwire issues using 90 degree boots. Plus they have smaller CC chambers for more power. I've done both 40's and 40p's and the P headed cars were always faster and quicker but each to his own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,568 Posts
I've personally done 4 GT40P head swaps using MAC and BBK longtubes with zero plugwire issues using 90 degree boots.
How easy is it to change the plugs? Ive yet to see P heads in a mustang with easily accessible plugs. It may work but the hassle isnt worth it in my opinion..
 
  • Like
Reactions: 90lxwhite

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,568 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
I love the "im in college and on a budget" stories. Maf conversation is at the top of the list. headers wont do a damn thing except look good so forget that. neither will dronemasters. Go over all your grounds and upgrade them. Go over your starting and charging system. do a 3g conversation and a 95 mustang starter. Check your fuel system and lines, feed and return. make sure there aren't any kinks. replace fuel pump with a 190lph. check connections at the the pump.

Go over the engine. smoke test for any vacuum leaks. So at least you have a sound engine that you dont have to worry about.

I would also look into upgrading the brakes. 86 had 10" rotors.

Save up for a better trans. the 86 is rated to about 250ftlbs.

Your money. do what you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
579 Posts
I have 86 5.0 Hatch.The T5 in it had 168k on it. When the engine was running it was completely stock down to the air box and the T5 shifted great. No grinding or anything. Should I rebuild it or just leave it be for now?
On a budget, leave it alone. Change fluid, call it good. Prices on parts have gone way up and some are hard to find. I just ordered a 4th gear synchro ring it was $50 for just a single ring.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bentley

·
Registered
1993 Mustang GT
Joined
·
12 Posts
Lots of good advice here. My advice, buy a rebuilder 87-93 HO motor and do a bearing/re-ring refresh on an engine stands as funds allow. If your 'stang is running fine as-is, don't tear it down until you have all parts and cash to complete the job. Way too many garages full of cars that people starting working on, ran out of funds or interest, and then left to sit. Most of us seasoned gearheads have at least one of these experiences. Not much worse than walking out into your garage and seeing a non-running car that was doing fine until you tore it down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,349 Posts
I love the "im in college and on a budget" stories. Maf conversation is at the top of the list. headers wont do a damn thing except look good so forget that. neither will dronemasters. Go over all your grounds and upgrade them. Go over your starting and charging system. do a 3g conversation and a 95 mustang starter. Check your fuel system and lines, feed and return. make sure there aren't any kinks. replace fuel pump with a 190lph. check connections at the the pump.

Go over the engine. smoke test for any vacuum leaks. So at least you have a sound engine that you dont have to worry about.

I would also look into upgrading the brakes. 86 had 10" rotors.

Save up for a better trans. the 86 is rated to about 250ftlbs.

Your money. do what you want.
Agree with nearly all this. I wouldn't bother with the starter change. Stock style works fine. I also don't agree with the brakes upgrade at this point in time. The OEM brakes in '86 were pitiful but they work fine on the street at sane speeds. Race track can be a different story. If he's in college the race track is probably not on his list at this time and the expense of the brake upgrade is probably also not in the budget right now.

Since you are still in college. Make it run well and reliably. Drive it and enjoy it as is until you are done with college and then modify it as time and money and experience allows. If you must change anything at this point, get 3.73 gears in it. Use only Ford Racing gears and make sure whoever does it really knows what they are doing. Also a catback will make it sound good and a little more fun ti drive. Won't add much power, if any. But it'll sound goooood. Fix the little stuff while your in college. Last thing, get a shifter on it if it doesn't have one. You can find them used. Perfect for budget builds. I like the Steeda Tri-Ax personally, but the Pro 5.0 is a quality piece and I ran a UPR shifter on a '98 GT that was a nice unit too. Really any aftermarket shifter is way, way better than OEM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
Agree with nearly all this. I wouldn't bother with the starter change. Stock style works fine. I also don't agree with the brakes upgrade at this point in time. The OEM brakes in '86 were pitiful but they work fine on the street at sane speeds. Race track can be a different story. If he's in college the race track is probably not on his list at this time and the expense of the brake upgrade is probably also not in the budget right now.

Since you are still in college. Make it run well and reliably. Drive it and enjoy it as is until you are done with college and then modify it as time and money and experience allows. If you must change anything at this point, get 3.73 gears in it. Use only Ford Racing gears and make sure whoever does it really knows what they are doing. Also a catback will make it sound good and a little more fun ti drive. Won't add much power, if any. But it'll sound goooood. Fix the little stuff while your in college. Last thing, get a shifter on it if it doesn't have one. You can find them used. Perfect for budget builds. I like the Steeda Tri-Ax personally, but the Pro 5.0 is a quality piece and I ran a UPR shifter on a '98 GT that was a nice unit too. Really any aftermarket shifter is way, way better than OEM.
86 v8 brakes suck but can wait.
i hate 3.73s. i wouldn't go any higher than a 3.31 with a factory 3.27 first gear in the trans. you will be in 5th gear in 4 seconds.
A quality shifter will make a tranny live.

flowmaster does have a flowfx cat back that does sound a lot better without the drone.

the starter is a cheap reliable upgrade. and easy to do. but it can wait until your old one leaves you in the parking lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,349 Posts
86 v8 brakes suck but can wait.
i hate 3.73s. i wouldn't go any higher than a 3.31 with a factory 3.27 first gear in the trans. you will be in 5th gear in 4 seconds.
A quality shifter will make a tranny live.

flowmaster does have a flowfx cat back that does sound a lot better without the drone.

the starter is a cheap reliable upgrade. and easy to do. but it can wait until your old one leaves you in the parking lot.
I wouldn't do less than 3.55's in any foxbody myself.

I ran a MagnaFlow stainless setup on a '98 GT that was just about perfection for a daily driver. Sounded awesome and no drone. Goldilocks system really. Everything was just right. Not too loud. Not too quite. No drone. Stainless so no corrosion (I drove that car through 5 NY winters and it looked the same as new when I sold the car). Awesome fitment. Wasn't the cheapest option, but everything else was all I could hope for.

You know what I like about the "not a mini-starter" starters is that when the car is warm you can barely bump it and the car is running. It's totally trivial, but I like it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
magnaflows are awesome. the flowfx mufflers are similar. i drove with 355s for years. then I drove 3.31s. preferences will differ but whatever. all good info/suggestions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,349 Posts
magnaflows are awesome. the flowfx mufflers are similar. i drove with 355s for years. then I drove 3.31s. preferences will differ but whatever. all good info/suggestions
Agree.

I recently upgraded to a TKO600 in my '93 GT that has 3.73's from before. The close ratios and the 3.73 are like a match made in heaven for my car. I have 4.10's but the 3.73's drive sooo nice I hesitate to even consider changing them. But I might. LOL

A 2.95 box with 3.73's is like having 3.31's with the 3.35 1st, but then the 2-4 with 3.73's. I have a 2.87 1st, but it's effectively the same. It's perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
Stay away from BBk throttle bodies. If you're going to replace it, get an Accufab. I've had the same one for over 20 years with zero issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kjb302ho

·
Registered
1985 Mustang GT
Joined
·
378 Posts
magnaflows are awesome. the flowfx mufflers are similar. i drove with 355s for years. then I drove 3.31s. preferences will differ but whatever. all good info/suggestions
4.10s in my daily 85. All personal preference. I don’t drive much highway though haha. I also have an Astro A5 .59 5th trans waiting. Personally 3.73 or 4.10. Also agree on your “sort it before touching performance parts”. 85 has the same brakes and if you do new rotors, pads and lines with a good fluid flush they are pretty good. Good tires will help that as well but fade is present. 11 inch is cheap and easy enough for a quick budget upgrade. Foxbodybrakes.com has a 4 lug 13in setup that’s pretty cheap as well. Sort it out and save for some TW heads for mild build or 11r heads for a more wild build. No valve reliefs for 86 so the valve angle is important if you’re staying SBE
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,052 Posts
What I did with my 86 GT T5 car was first swapped the rear gears from the 2.73s to 3.27s. I found a complete 8.8 housing with the 3.27s stock from an auto car so I was pretty sure they weren't beat to death from side-stepping a clutch. Made a lot of difference right there but the car still ran out of breath at around 5500.

The next mods were to swap e7 heads on it, an upper 87+ intake with 55mm TB, swapped in a DB1 computer and added BBK unequal shorts. This really woke up the car and I could run it to about 6K. Still kept the stock T5.

Finally, I went all in and rebuilt and stroked the motor to 347, custom cam, Trick-Flo Track Heat, 75mm Accufab TB, Canfield 195s and 1.75" mid-length Accufab headers and 3.55s with 31 spline axles. But I still have the stock T5. Yes, if I power shift it, breakage is likely to occur. Since I don't drag race (built for autocross and open track), I can be careful. When the time comes to replace the trans, I'm going with TKX or Astro.

My advice would be to follow a similar path until you have the money. Those 87+ stock parts are very cheap. The car will respond to the mods I mentioned without breaking the bank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,568 Posts
Stay away from BBk throttle bodies. If you're going to replace it, get an Accufab. I've had the same one for over 20 years with zero issues.
Why do you say this? Ive had a BBK on my car since I bought it and it works fine. IS there an issue with the fox version I am unaware of?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
[
magnaflows are awesome. the flowfx mufflers are similar. i drove with 355s for years. then I drove 3.31s. preferences will differ but whatever. all good info/suggestions
I went from 3.73’s to 3.31 & I’m never looking back. The “don’t fear the gear” guys always over-sell the performance difference between say a 3.08 and the 4.10’s on a street car. We’re talking “split seconds,” like hundredths at best. At the drag strip a millisecond might make or break someone but not in the real world.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
[

I went from 3.73’s to 3.31 & I’m never looking back. The “don’t fear the gear” guys always over-sell the performance difference between say a 3.08 and the 4.10’s on a street car. We’re talking “split seconds,” like hundredths at best. At the drag strip a millisecond might make or break someone but not in the real world.
i went from 3.55s to 3.08 in my 408 sc. it just pulls and pulls lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
What I did with my 86 GT T5 car was first swapped the rear gears from the 2.73s to 3.27s. I found a complete 8.8 housing with the 3.27s stock from an auto car so I was pretty sure they weren't beat to death from side-stepping a clutch. Made a lot of difference right there but the car still ran out of breath at around 5500.

The next mods were to swap e7 heads on it, an upper 87+ intake with 55mm TB, swapped in a DB1 computer and added BBK unequal shorts. This really woke up the car and I could run it to about 6K. Still kept the stock T5.

Finally, I went all in and rebuilt and stroked the motor to 347, custom cam, Trick-Flo Track Heat, 75mm Accufab TB, Canfield 195s and 1.75" mid-length Accufab headers and 3.55s with 31 spline axles. But I still have the stock T5. Yes, if I power shift it, breakage is likely to occur. Since I don't drag race (built for autocross and open track), I can be careful. When the time comes to replace the trans, I'm going with TKX or Astro.

My advice would be to follow a similar path until you have the money. Those 87+ stock parts are very cheap. The car will respond to the mods I mentioned without breaking the bank.
i dont think astro is in business anymore.
 
1 - 20 of 49 Posts
Top