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Yes. Was his fastest run so far. But it was 42° out that day as well. We’ve been running since then and the closest come to that time is 11.92 at 111 mph
Thank you for the reply. My turbo stick shift car ran 12.4 @ 111. I know I have more tuning to do. Just trying to compare apples to oranges.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you for the reply. My turbo stick shift car ran 12.4 @ 111. I know I have more tuning to do. Just trying to compare apples to oranges.
Torque is torque in my eyes. He didn’t start getting decent times until we really started to work on suspension. Strange single adjustable in the back with the ET Street SS’s. We’re going to the track today to test out the Strange Single adjustables and springs we just put up front. I expect this will help with times and/or 60’ a little bit since we took out coil overs that didn’t have much travel. Trying to get the weight transfer setup mastered so we can get the other motor built and installed. No point in making more power if we can’t get it to stick.
 

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Torque is torque in my eyes. He didn’t start getting decent times until we really started to work on suspension. Strange single adjustable in the back with the ET Street SS’s. We’re going to the track today to test out the Strange Single adjustables and springs we just put up front. I expect this will help with times and/or 60’ a little bit since we took out coil overs that didn’t have much travel. Trying to get the weight transfer setup mastered so we can get the other motor built and installed. No point in making more power if we can’t get it to stick.
Look forward to hearing how the track day went. I am mostly working on my clutch release and shift timing. I would like to add more boost but it might be best to get a better fuel before I do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Look forward to hearing how the track day went. I am mostly working on my clutch release and shift timing. I would like to add more boost but it might be best to get a better fuel before I do.
Went decent for the Temperature. Around 87* ambient.
best time was 12.21 & 108.68.
We’re going again with new single adjustable shocks in the front to try and get 60’ times down
 

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What is the current 60' time? Is it spinning? Get some video from the right side is it sperating or compressing? Might be worth plotting the rear suspension. Changing the bar angle can make a big difference.

My car has a good bit of starting line rato and Lakewood / Southside control arms. I put the two step at 5k. It 60's ok for a low powered car.
 

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I am the last person that you should take tuning advice from. It did look like the rear squats. Maybe stiffen up the rear shocks? I would try that before spending money to move bars around.

If it's not spinning can you hit it with more power, and or more RPM.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I am the last person that you should take tuning advice from. It did look like the rear squats. Maybe stiffen up the rear shocks? I would try that before spending money to move bars around.

If it's not spinning can you hit it with more power, and or more RPM.
Yeah, it’s not spinning. Stiffen the Passenger Rear and loosen the Fronts is what I’m thinking. Want the front end to get the most upward/reward momentum as possible correct?

Would love to throw more power at it, but it’s stock Lincoln Mark VIII internals already putting 400ish to the pavement, so it’s on the ragged edge already. Only thing I can think of to maybe safely squeeze out more is Meth/Water injection to help control the combustion process with the NO2
 

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I read one time you should keep the shocks the same, but that was for a street car so it maybe ok to try it different at the track, I have run an air bag in the right rear before it was ok. If it's not spinning I would be surprised if loosening the front will make it faster. Is free to try so go for it. The thought is anytime it picks up or compresses the suspension that is power going to move the car up and down vertically and not being used to go forward down the track. In the video it looked to be the rear was going down that's why I would tighten the rear first.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
I read one time you should keep the shocks the same, but that was for a street car so it maybe ok to try it different at the track, I have run an air bag in the right rear before it was ok. If it's not spinning I would be surprised if loosening the front will make it faster. Is free to try so go for it. The thought is anytime it picks up or compresses the suspension that is power going to move the car up and down vertically and not being used to go forward down the track. In the video it looked to be the rear was going down that's why I would tighten the rear first.
Thanks for the advice. Sorry for the delay. Had COVID, then got a promotion at work, so time has been taxed severely.

We did do some adjustments at the last test and tune on 3/15. We loosened the front Struts to the lowest setting of 1, with no measurable difference in 60’ times. I love our hometown track, but they are very conservative with the prep for some reason. So, the times we got were not indicative of the adjustments we made.

We also tried stiffening the Passenger Rear by one point, to 4 instead of 3, and it blew the tires off from the line. (Byproduct of lack of Prep)

Taking the car back to Tony on Tuesday to get it Dyno’d again on NA and Spray.

We participated in the NMRA event at the beginning of the month, and we’re not able to be competitive in the 12.0 index because of the heat. Best run was 12.15 @ 109. Trying to squeeze a little more out of the 180K Lincoln Intek 😳💥 for the summertime racing.

Also, just an FYI for anyone using this donor motor, our Tuner, Tony Gonyon @ Tuners Inc in Orange Park, FL, said that the stock crank in these motors is good for 500-600 HP before they start to twist. The weak link in the rotating assembly is the pistons and rods. He flat out refused to do a 125 Shot of NO2 because of this. He really didn’t want to do the 100 Shot we already got from him. Never the less, we are hoping to get the new tunes so we can compete while we are accumulating parts for the 1200HP NO2 motor.

I know not many people are doing these motors anymore, god knows why since the parts are cheap, other than anything to do with the head assemblies. But if you take a junk yard Intek and toss some decent rods and pistons, it’s an easy 500-600hp motor for cheap on Spray…

 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Also, I’m seriously considering this Rotating Assembly from MMR:


The Aluminum CR’s really grabbed my attention since we are planing to shift the new motor around the 9K RPM area.

Anyone have any input or suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
With 28" tire and a 4.30 gear, 6500 is 125MPH, I think you're safe.
What calculator are you using to get these numbers? Or are you just doing the math for 1st, 2nd & 3rd with gear ratio’s from 02 4R70W and rear diff gear value with traction at 100 efficiency?
Where would I factor in a loose converter? We’re running 3800 stall.

Thinking about mixing and matching AODE/4R70W parts to make the best Xmission ratios possible. We have 2 spares here at the house and an already built 1994 AODE that could handle 800 all day long. Those early AODE’s have a very nice numerically high 1st gear that would work nice with a tall tire I believe.
 

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if you download this and run it, it has a calculator under the speed tab, you input gear ratio, tire size and trans ratios, and you'll have the option to select RPM at a specific MPH, or MPH at a specific RPM.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Fun evening at the Dyno. Learned a lot:

1.) Lincoln Intek is pretty strong.
2.) 96-98 Cobra Manifold (with IRMC deletes) is horrible for NA upper RPM Hp.
3.) We’re not spending $10k to build a 1200hp NO2 breathing dragon.

So with no further stalling, here’s the numbers.

NA posted previously, 298 HP 307 TQ

Today with a 125 Shot, 377 HP & 431 TQ

Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern Schematic


and the ‘blip’ on 3.5k-3.8k is the converter flashing. What’s the significance of this, other than losing power while it does?
Map Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel
 
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