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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a 1994 Ford Mustang GT Convertible with a 302 cu.in. 8 cylinder 5.0 motor. since we bought it it has had several problems with cutting off. after changing various parts it runs fine driving but as soon as motor gets to operating temp, when ever you come to a stop it decides to die.

My husband replaced the following parts.
Water Pump
Vacuum Hoses Behind Intake
Starter
Battery
Charcoal Canister
Evap Valve
and recently the Distributor.
 

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Mine has done that since I bought it in 1998. Even after (essentially) 2 motors and Lord knows what all else I have had to do to it the last 3 or 4 years, it still wants to cut off when shifting from P to R or D. I have set base idle, tried a new IAC, adjusted the idle air bleed screw, you name it.

I hope someone has an answer for you because it will help me as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine has done that since I bought it in 1998. Even after (essentially) 2 motors and Lord knows what all else I have had to do to it the last 3 or 4 years, it still wants to cut off when shifting from P to R or D. I have set base idle, tried a new IAC, adjusted the idle air bleed screw, you name it.

I hope someone has an answer for you because it will help me as well.
Omg That's awful, Yeah we've tried everything. I'm really losing hope in it and it's a really nice ride when it does run...It's my first mustang :). The Husband bought it for me for our 1 year wedding anniversary last year. We were not aware of the issues it had.
 

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Try a New Tfi Module I had almost the same problem on my 94 Gt 5.0 5 speed , It would run fine until it got to operating temp And than it would start Misfiring , trying to stall Out, Bucking (you'll need a Special Ford tool 5.5 Mm can buy them at autozone , advanced etc like $7 ) What does it do ? Does the Tach Jump up And down ?
 

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Omg That's awful, Yeah we've tried everything. I'm really losing hope in it and it's a really nice ride when it does run...It's my first mustang :). The Husband bought it for me for our 1 year wedding anniversary last year. We were not aware of the issues it had.
have you taken it to a shop, that has a scope and scanner?

they would be able to find out exactly is going on, without replacing parts.

most likely parts have been changed, like the TB, or someone messed with the TB stop screw

with scan data, they can see what the ecm is commanding, and what is actually happening.
 

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Omg That's awful, Yeah we've tried everything. I'm really losing hope in it and it's a really nice ride when it does run...It's my first mustang
. The Husband bought it for me for our 1 year wedding anniversary last year. We were not aware of the issues it had.
have you taken it to a shop, that has a scope and scanner?

they would be able to find out exactly is going on, without replacing parts.

most likely parts have been changed, like the TB, or someone messed with the TB stop screw

with scan data, they can see what the ecm is commanding, and what is actually happening.
Don't go to a shop. This code reader would be cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW
 

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Many had problems with PIP sensor (hall sensor inside the distributor) . The remanufactured distributors and some new ones (MSD) don't solve the problem . You have to change the PIP sensor to a new Motorcraft unit (Part #DU50 , U$32.79 on Rockauto) .

Other strange problem that causes stalling , is the electrical terminal contacts in the fuel pump hanger/bracket inside the tank . They start to come loose and the car will stall (I had this problem and was very difficult fo find out the problem) . I had to buy another hanger .

 

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Don't go to a shop. This code reader would be cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW
you are comparing a scope and scanner to that?

you should have suggested a paperclip,,,,,for even better results.
Yeah you're right, a paper clip is all they need. Scope... I don't think they've even pulled codes and they're just throwing parts at it. Start with codes. Either count flashes w a paperclip or buy a $25 reader. At least they'll know where to start.
*Edit* Her problem isn't in the tb. I beleive its stock.
 

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I can't speak for the OP, but I've pulled codes so many times the car sees me coming with the scanner and just hollers the new ones out to me. And no fixing of problems indicated by codes or adjustments has improved the situation.

Just curious, but can live data be read from an OBD I system?
 

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Just curious, but can live data be read from an OBD I system?
Yes , with a tuner device in J3 service port in PCM (tweecer, Moates quarterhorse , Anderson PMS, Etc.) .
 

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I can't speak for the OP, but I've pulled codes so many times the car sees me coming with the scanner and just hollers the new ones out to me. And no fixing of problems indicated by codes or adjustments has improved the situation.

Just curious, but can live data be read from an OBD I system?
real time datalogging has a lot of hardware options out there.

or you can just watch the 02 cycling with a DMM
 

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I found on my 94 that it would die like that if

it just petered out it was too lean

if it surged it was too rich

timing could also be a factor
 

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Hello, I have a 1994 Ford Mustang GT Convertible with a 302 cu.in. 8 cylinder 5.0 motor. since we bought it it has had several problems with cutting off. after changing various parts it runs fine driving but as soon as motor gets to operating temp, when ever you come to a stop it decides to die.

My husband replaced the following parts.
Water Pump
Vacuum Hoses Behind Intake
Starter
Battery
Charcoal Canister
Evap Valve
and recently the Distributor.


a stock 5.0 should be reliable and have good driveability.
The very first thing to do is to pull codes. Either buy a scanner or take it to a shop. Some car parts stores offer free code checks. Call around to find one.

A rookie mistake is to throw parts at the car without having reason to suspect a given part.

Pull codes, let us know what you get.
Also tell us any mods you have and any other performance problems. Is the Check Engine light coming on occasionally? Does the car seem to lose power? Does the car have an e-cam and the engine is trying to idle at 600 rpm? Let us know.
 

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I have the Moates QuarterHorse, but with out a wideband I found the switching O2 sensors were too slow to respond to the lean out as I came to a stop. There is a balance between timing and fuel ratio that worked for me. I had real problems on my car for a while. Either dying (lean), surging (rich) or floating high speed idle(dash pot)

WarpXspeed
Try this Idle Air 101 / EFIDynoTuning
 

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Hello, I have a 1994 Ford Mustang GT Convertible with a 302 cu.in. 8 cylinder 5.0 motor. since we bought it it has had several problems with cutting off. after changing various parts it runs fine driving but as soon as motor gets to operating temp, when ever you come to a stop it decides to die.

My husband replaced the following parts.
Water Pump
Vacuum Hoses Behind Intake
Starter
Battery
Charcoal Canister
Evap Valve
and recently the Distributor.


a stock 5.0 should be reliable and have good driveability.
The very first thing to do is to pull codes. Either buy a scanner or take it to a shop. Some car parts stores offer free code checks. Call around to find one.

A rookie mistake is to throw parts at the car without having reason to suspect a given part.

Pull codes, let us know what you get.
Also tell us any mods you have and any other performance problems. Is the Check Engine light coming on occasionally? Does the car seem to lose power? Does the car have an e-cam and the engine is trying to idle at 600 rpm? Let us know.
This guy is correct. Slow down on the tuning talk, yall are muddying the waters too much and getting to techicnical. OBD I cars were fixed for years before the invention of a USB port. Pull the the codes. Then you can google "what does obdI code 511 mean?" You'll more than likely have to by your own reader because most if not all parts stores only have obd II readers behind the counter that they'll do for free (but there's one on the shelf that they can sell you). The diagnostic port is in the engine bay. There is a "dummy port" below the dash but it doesn't work unless the car has a v6 which was obd 2.
By the way I think yall scared her away w all the 1/4 horse talk.
 

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Don't go to a shop. This code reader would be cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW
Cheaper? Not necessarily if the OP doesn't know what to do with the info. Having a shop with scope and scanner read what's happening will have a much better chance of finding the problem without just throwing parts at the problem.
Research what the code is before buying parts. Or have a mechanic sell you an O2 sensor for $800....
 

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By the way I think yall scared her away w all the 1/4 horse talk.
I'm thinking poor Trisha. Trying to help hubby and her post gets more or less hijacked. Ask hubby to remove and clean the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds then clean the MAF sensor element with MAF cleaner. Be careful as the MAF sensor element is a thin wire. Let us know if these easy fixes helped.
 
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