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As a side note - knowing what I do now on the fitment, an offset/offset muffler would have been a better choice.

 

[Leadsled Coupe]

I did not see mention of where you got your hood side vents. If you don’t mind sharing I’d like to know as I’ve thought about such for years but never made the leap.

Love the updates. Keep them coming!

 

[Top Heavy]

Hey @Leadsled Coupe the hood vents are from a 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - they seemed to fit the look with the shape of the Mustang and the hood scoop

I did not see mention of where you got your hood side vents. If you don’t mind sharing I’d like to know as I’ve thought about such for years but never made the leap.

Love the updates. Keep them coming!

 

[Leadsled Coupe]

Thanks my friend I’ll have to check those out.

 

[Top Heavy]

It’s a pretty easy installation if you can grab the lower drip trays too. These are what holds the tension between the inner/outer pieces, with a little trimming they can look like they may have came that way.

Good luck, whatever vents you go with - Share pics! 👌👌

Thanks my friend I’ll have to check those out.

 

[Top Heavy]

Still having a run issue. At this point I’m unsure if it’s a ground problem, an ignition problem, or an ECU problem.

The fuel pump still will cycle at the start, the engine may/may not start. Though shortly after the start, the fuel pressure bleeds off and the car stalls out. There are 2 real options I want to test this weekend first.

1. Is the spark signal from the TFI reaching the ECU to maintain the fuel pump in a run situation?

2. is there a newly surfaced ground issue at the ECU on fuel circuit that only surfaces in the run condition?

Part of me thinks it’s better to disconnect all of the stock fuel pump wiring system and start from scratch utilizing the “blue” ground signal from the ECU as a trigger. Which won’t really help at this point if the issue is ignition signal related, but would allow a battery direct source for power (the battery is only 24” from the pump”.