[Top Heavy]

One of the areas I was concerned with was the fuel system as a whole. Typical of a stock fuel system, it really isn’t designed for performance applications in the fox body. I can say that the stock Mustang fuel tank isn’t perfect, but does have some internal baffling to assist in fuel control in acceleration, handling and braking situations. It isn’t an autocross or rear sump drag tank, but it’s a pretty solid overall staring point.

No matter what the intent of the car is, I had concerns with the ability of the stock system to keep up and the aeration of fuel on the return line in the tank. One of the interesting things about most fuel injection tanks is the return is placed right by the intake it may or may not pose a problem. Personally I would rather spend on a little prevention just in case.

The injectors won’t be anywhere near taxed at this power level. If I opt for more displacement or a low boost turbo in the future, this system should be good and not require any major upgrade.

Here's a quick system rundown:

• Stock Mustang gas tank, sanded, primed, painted and clear coated
• Pro-M Racing 3/8” + 3/8” fuel pump hanger
• Aeromotive 340L per hour pump
• PW billet fuel filter
• -8 braided stainless feed w/ -8 braided stainless return
• -6 braided stainless lines to fuel rails w/-6 braided stainless lines to regulator
• Aeromotive Compact EFI Regulator
• Edelbrock billet aluminum fuel rails
• Autometer fuel pressure gauge
• Ford Racing 47lb injectors

 

[qtrracer]

Does your ECU have the ability to data record? If so, does it have a fuel pressure input? The reason I ask is that my Holley Terminator X does so I bought the fuel pressure sensor to check what is going on under heavy load. Turns out the stock system can keep up. But I'm running 36# injectors on the 349 stroker. I was worried too because of the g-loads produced during hard cornering and exit acceration.

 

[Top Heavy]

Does your ECU have the ability to data record? If so, does it have a fuel pressure input?

Yes, but not fuel pressure.

The idea on the fuel system was to build something that won’t need upgrading in the future (maybe injectors if the next build is Dart block and turbo), though getting this one running and fun for at least a season is primary.

When I started the build and bought the injection system, there wasn’t much on the market for a plug and play system. Without the foresight on what my available “spare time“ would really be when I started the build (2017), I thought I’d have been finished by spring if 2018.

Knowing what I know now, and realizing that that the build has taken much longer than anticipated, I could have bought any system and rewired harnesses fairly easily over almost 5 years.

 

[Top Heavy]

Good news........... There is fire!

Thanks to @qtracer, something struck me. There is no fuel pressure data log.............. When I would try to start it, it would die out, and always just about catch.

I had my father come by this morning, and had him crank it for me. The fuel pressure at start up stayed at 40psi, but when I cranked it, it would drop. leaving not enough fuel pressure or volume to run. After all of the programming adjustments on fuel, it's now pig rich and pumping black smoke even after a few seconds of starting. I couldn't see this condition because i was in the car trying to start it, and the remote starter died on us, preventing me from being able to activate the starter while monitoring fuel.

Today is my daughter's birthday, so I won't even get a chance to play with cars until tomorrow.

I'll plug the laptop in tomorrow and see what the O2 readings are, I know the idle is low and timing might be off by a few degrees.

I'll upload a start up video at somepoint, is there any way to perform this outside of YouTube?

 

[Top Heavy]

Prior to the start up today; last night i had pulled the valvecover to ensure that TDC was right on the money.

So, I thoguht what better time to install the ARP bolts in the valve covers to match the rest of the engine?

The short term plan was install stainless steel sleeves into the valve covers as stanchions that allow the bolts to sit properly as the fabricated covers are angled and will not allow the bolt to sit correctly. Once the spacers/stanchions were cut to fit, it was noted that some of the bolts needed about an 1/8" cut off to allow the proper seating.

I prefer the ARP bolts to the provided cap/socket ones because they match. I prefer the fitment of the recessed look, but the finsh of ARP is so much nicer. In the next off season, I will order another set of ARP bolts (a little shorter than these) and throw them on the lathe to machine the heads for fit inside the recesses in the valve covers. Regardless, they look better by finish and match, and will do for 2022.

 

[fasterthangas]

I seem to have forgotten that I replaced the American Muscle smoked cobra headlight housings and side marker housings with clear recently. I found OEM quality Cobra housings at Rock Auto for ridiculously low prices! I liked the look of the smoked housings better, but the fit and quality of the OEM replacements is considerably better. View attachment 1081951

Jay

My '94 had aftermarket headlights when I bought the car. They were wannabe projector lenses. Pure junk! These aftermarket companies have no clue or care on how to manufacture a light that works properly. I went back to factory Ford pieces and Silverstar bulbs. The focus of the beam along with width is miles better. I can see again!

 

[Top Heavy]

The road on a build is full of hiccups, delays and changes, it’s normal - at least I tell myself that.

Getting through the last 10-15% of a project (that has been 60 or so other projects) seems to take the most time. Once you get to hear it run, the finish line feels so much closer.

The manufacturer of the SDS EFI stopped by for a visit last night, he took away the ECU to make a few modifications and bring it up to the latest circuitry relating to ignition control. Pretty exciting stuff.

There are a few things I plan to work on while the ECU is away, but what I really wanted to do was move onto the exhaust - no ECU means I cant drive it over to the other shop and get it on the drive on hoist. Unfortunately for now, this shop is without hoist.

One of the items I’ve been struggling with is getting the Lokar dipstick tube installed. I‘ve tried a few times and I think I’ll need a second person. I can’t seem to be able to guid at the bottom, pushbfrom the top, and get a pry bar in to press it into the hole. If there’s a trick to it, I haven‘t figured it out yet.

What will be coming up - teaser pics of the hood finishing. We test fit the hood last night and there’s a few thing I want to modify, but it looks fantastic. Today I’ll be heading to the spray booth to finish the scoop, vents and new mirrors in red. The hood modifications and final spray of that will occur over the next week or so…….…… updates to come!

 

[petmotel]

So what was the problem that caused loss of fuel pressure to drop after cranking? Sounds like pump was losing pressure with the key in on position?

Jay

 

[Top Heavy]

It was a small issue of initial pressure spike and bleed off.

When the car starts, the pressure drops about 8 psi while running, the initial pressure spike is now set to 48psi with running condition at 40psi.

Seems to work fine now with the current pressure arrangement.

So what was the problem that caused loss of fuel pressure to drop after cranking? Sounds like pump was losing pressure with the key in on position?

Jay

 

[qtrracer]

The road on a build is full of hiccups, delays and changes, it’s normal - at least I tell myself that.

Amen to that. But at some point, you have to stop changes unless critical to the theme. Otherwise, getting it on the street may never occur. Happened too many times.

Getting through the last 10-15% of a project (that has been 60 or so other projects) seems to take the most time. Once you get to hear it run, the finish line feels so much closer.

When we finally got ours to run, there were still a number of things to work out - most notably the tune. We had a power steering leak that turned out to be a cracked fitting on the pump. But now I have a heating issue, a hot oil pressure issue, and an exhaust noise issue - not to mention getting this beast through CA smog.

 

[Top Heavy]

That‘s one thing I’m grateful for - we still don’t smog test here.

Everything else seems to be standard fare for a Foxbody - the youngest one is encroaching 30 years old and the oldest are over 40!!!!

Was everything new when you were chasing down gremlins? That’s what drives me nuts, when new parts fail, and 30+ year old parts are working fine.

not to mention getting this beast through CA smog.

 

[Top Heavy]

Spending some time in the booth today…….

Undersides of things are being sprayed, top sides will happen either tomorrow (hopefully), or next week at some point.

 

[qtrracer]

Was everything new when you were chasing down gremlins? That’s what drives me nuts, when new parts fail, and 30+ year old parts are working fine.

Until we had it running, I assumed all the new stuff would work as intended; I was skeptical of the older pieces. Well, the 34 YO power steering pump developed that leak, the original AC charge apparently leaked out so that was converted to R134, the 30 YO seat belts failed to lock, the new oil pump works fine but heat thins the oil out too much, the new underdrive pulley and/or the Evans Water Substitute aren't playing nice and the new GPS speedo sending unitl was worthless until I found a mounting place clear of obstructions. I'm sure more gremlins will pop-up as we put more miles and track time on the car.

 

[Top Heavy]

@qtrracer we walk a similar path!

The difficult question becomes - how far do you go? Is it preventative maintenance or preparation on the project?!?!

Part of the issue is; you replace 5 things in good faith of the project build and find 5 other things that are needed after you replace the 5 things you just did!

 

[qtrracer]

@qtrracer we walk a similar path!

The difficult question becomes - how far do you go? Is it preventative maintenance or preparation on the project?!?!

Part of the issue is; you replace 5 things in good faith of the project build and find 5 other things that are needed after you replace the 5 things you just did!

No question, this hobby is a slippery slope. I guess that is why these projects are never really "done". I also have a freak'n rattle from the glove box that is driving me nuts - probably because the Flo FXs I put on are so loud, everything vibrates.

 

[Top Heavy]

probably because the Flo FXs I put on are so loud, everything vibrates.

You have a sound clip? A video? Anything to hear the roar?

 

[qtrracer]

You have a sound clip? A video? Anything to hear the roar?

Not yet. But I'll work on it.

 

[Top Heavy]

Many updates will be coming soon, as there have been some distractions and changes coming..........

Though as of a couple of weeks ago, the hood was able to go on!

I haven't finished polishing it out as of yet, you will have to excuse the current state of affairs, but it closes, lines up ok, and is one step closer to storming the streets again!

I am well aware its a love it or hate it look, BUT I think next year I'll buy the fiberglass one I would have rather and modify it. Hopefully once I'm done I can swing a deal with a carbon fiber group to build it and finagle a "free one".

 

[Leadsled Coupe]

Very well and tastefully done!

 

[Top Heavy]

Started the 3” exhaust, and plagued with some ground issues at the panel. The exhaust has to come out (one piece), lay on the bench, receive a grinding and clean up and have all the seams rewelded.

BUT…. It’s progress and means I’ll be driving it next week to the last meet of the year - or even possibly this weekend

(actually, I did drive it open headers to my fathers shop……..)