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Discussion Starter #801
More work done on the car today. I focused on getting the rear coilovers and the sway bar end links installed. I also put the rest of the tail pipe on the car. The tail pipes turned out good I'm happy with the way they look. I started first with hanging a plumbing bob from the exhaust hanger to measure the distance from the end of the exhaust to the fishing line hanging from the plumbing bob.



Then measured out what I needed and cut the pipe. Then used a chrome butt joint clamp to hold it together. The clamp blends with the tail pipe good its hard to tell there is a clamp on it.



Then put the coilovers and the end links in the car. There not in the car permanently since I will have to remove the springs when I do the bump steering on the rear end but I do want to set the car on the ground and see how need to adjust the rear coilovers.





I should be able to install the front struts in the car tomorrow. Then the plan is to bleed the brakes after I do one more run through to make sure everything is connected right.
 

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Discussion Starter #802
I got more ABS work done this weekend. I was able to finish up the wiring of the ABS sensors in the car. I finally got the ABS sensor brackets mounted to the car and the connectors run.





I also had to put new front hubs on the car that had the tone rings on them the one on the car didn't have them. It wasn't a problem since the hubs had never been replaced.



The next step is to bleed the brakes on the car. If that goes fine I will lower it back on the ground get the ride height set and the alignment done so I can set the bump steer the front and rear of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #803 (Edited)
Quick update bled the brakes last night. It did go perfect but better then I thought it would. I only had one very tiny leak. The only down side is I couldn't get it to stop leaking with tightening the fitting so I will have to make a new line for one of the connections luckily its a short line.
 

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Those struts and shocks are gorgeous!

I'm glad you posted pictures of the exhaust exits, it really highlights how much difference there is between the Fox bodies and the New Edge rear bumpers. The exhausts pass through cut-outs in the rear bumpers of the New Edge styles, whereas they are well below the bumper of your Fox. Obviously you do not need the tight dimensional control of the later model hangars to keep the tips in their cut-outs. Not sure how it will wind up with my SN, chances are I probably don't need the later style hangars either, but I have them if I should need them.

You're starting to get pretty close to having her track worthy soon, exciting!

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #805
The car is back on the ground for the first time since Nov 25. I got the brakes bled fine and everything is pretty good so far. I even have a working parking brake so that is nice no more wood block. I got the ride height set and the camber set in the front still need to work on getting the camber done in the rear of the car and working on the toe front and rear. Its nice to see it on the ground again.





Once I have the base alignment done I should be able to take it for a test drive after I do a nut and bolt on all the suspension and brakes. Can't wait to get her back on the road for a test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #807
Yes the plan is to corner weight the car at some point. I'm just trying figuring out if I'm going to take it to someone to do it or get the stuff to do it myself. I have all the stuff I need to align car I just can't do the corner weights. I've been searching the used race equipment sites to look for scales and scale levelers with very little luck right now. I just need a basic set of scales I don't need anything fancy and a good set of levelers.

Another note I was out setting the camber on the car. The front was easy at first when I got it back on the ground it had almost -5 degree of camber which I got back to -3 pretty easy. The rear of the car was a little weird. The drivers side was at about -1 degree the passenger side of the car was -2 which through me off I didn't think you could get that much even with the modified camber bolts. I measured out all my ride height settings so I'm going to put the car back on jack stands tomorrow and start messing with the camber bolt to see if I can get the rear to -1 to -1.5 on both sides. Then I want to work on the toe settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #808
Update on the car I did some work on the rear of the car to get the camber set. I was able to get the driver side to -1.2 degrees of camber so I balanced them out and set the passenger to the same. I'm not sure why I can get -1 degree more camber out of the passenger when everything looks the same. Now its on to setting the toe on the car I will probably keep the front at .5 degrees of tow out the rear I'm going to zero the tow for now and maybe play with that later on. I still have to set the bump steer on the car which I will start to mess with once its aligned.
 

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Discussion Starter #809
Started work on getting the toe set on the car. I picked up this string alignment kit from B-G racing which works really nice. It took a bit of setup but its nice not having the jack stands to trip over while trying to set the alignment.



It was easy to set the rear toe on the car I loosened the jam nuts on the tie rods then just turned them until I zero toe in the rear of the car. I still have more work to do on the front. I swapped out the power steering rack on the car with a Flaming river power rack a while back when I was having the power steering issues. The steering feel from the rack is amazing its worth the money. The other upside to it was I could raise up the rack in the car since it had better clearance then the AGR rack that was in the car for years.



The drawback to it in the cars current setup is when I put it next to the AGR rack it was a bit narrower which is why you need there tie rod ends when you buy the rack for install. I was still able to use my bump steer kit fine since I had one that was meant for a fox rack with the SN95 length arms. Now that I have the SN95 arms its going to be close. They only thread in a little over 3/4 of an inch. I did read that you only really need .663 of an inch threaded into the tie rod end for it to work but not sure how I feel about that since I run 315 tires in the front. I'm going to dig into it more tonight and work on getting the toe set in front then see how much is threaded into the tie rod end.
 
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