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Discussion Starter #761
I was doing some research last night I'm finding it is really easy to find the ABS front wheel speed sensors but the rears are extremely hard to find. I found a couple sets for sale on ebay but you can't find them new. I read at a few places that they've been discontinued. I know these things go bad over time just not sure how long the wheel sensors last. I might have to buy one of the sets off ebay to have shelf spares.
 

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I had all four sensors included with the two axles I bought, one was slightly damaged, the outer covering had been abraded through in a spot. I picked the two best and they cleaned up like new. My daily driver '95 has ABS stock, so I will be hoping the 2001 sensors are good, and get along with the 95 control module. The GTS track day car was not originally equipped with ABS, I won't be adding it.

I won't be putting all the new hardware in the street car till it comes out of storage in spring, by then you will have shown me how to do the brake lines! Thanks!

I have since received the 12mm swivel socket, I can get it on the driveshaft bolts but it rubs fairly badly, I will be using the torque adapter to tighten the bolts on the track car. I got the large pattern pinion flange and flange yoke on the for the daily, access is great with those pieces, no special tools required. If I were to change things on the track car, I'd use a Strange pinion yoke

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #763
I had all four sensors included with the two axles I bought, one was slightly damaged, the outer covering had been abraded through in a spot. I picked the two best and they cleaned up like new. My daily driver '95 has ABS stock, so I will be hoping the 2001 sensors are good, and get along with the 95 control module. The GTS track day car was not originally equipped with ABS, I won't be adding it.

I won't be putting all the new hardware in the street car till it comes out of storage in spring, by then you will have shown me how to do the brake lines! Thanks!

I have since received the 12mm swivel socket, I can get it on the driveshaft bolts but it rubs fairly badly, I will be using the torque adapter to tighten the bolts on the track car. I got the large pattern pinion flange and flange yoke on the for the daily, access is great with those pieces, no special tools required. If I were to change things on the track car, I'd use a Strange pinion yoke

Jay
Well mine are only going to work if you have nothing under the dash. I have the rear ones run now its just finishing up the front. I'm going to go up through the cowl then through the firewall. Igot started on it today. Not sure how much I like the idea but it was one of my only options. You can see from the pictures below how I'm going to run everything. Since there is a line for the front right brake and the prop valve I'm going to tie into those lines. The line that runs across for the right front brake I'm going to cut and angle up to the fitting pointing to the passenger side close to the
center of the car.



The fitting closest to you in the picture will run to the prop valve for the rear master cylinder connection. The fitting in the back pointing towards the driver side of the car will go to the left front brake. There is another fitting not in the picture that will run to the front master cylinder connection. Don't mind the brake line in the picture I was just test fitting it.



These are the bulkhead connections that come up out of the ABS module into the cowl area. I really want to do two sets of bulkhead connections but it was the best way to do it. I should have time tomorrow to at least finish up the connections inside the cowl. Then I need to focus on getting lines in the engine compartment done. Then Monday I should have the parts to finish up the fuel system and start getting the IRS in for the final time. My goal is to have the IRS, fuel system and the brake lines finished by the end of next week. Its going to be a push but I think its possible. Then its time to focus on wiring up the ABS module.
 

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Discussion Starter #764
I was able to get the lines from the ABS module to the cowl and the cowl to the fire wall done today. They turned out pretty good a couple could have been better but all in all I'm happy with it.







Now its time to move on to the engine bay which is going to be a pain in the ass I can already see it. But hopefully by the end of the week I should have it all done. Then its on to wiring up the ABS module. I ordered the connectors I need to connect the ABS sensors to the wiring harness I have to create for the ABS sensors. I found them on amazon they weren't a bad price so I bought them. I should have those on Tuesday.
 

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Discussion Starter #765
I finally got a chance to work on the car again last night. I got the fuel lines hooked up and test fitted the tank to make sure the lines would reach.



Everything reach and went in fine another step closer to getting the IRS installed for the final time.
 

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Do the rear brakes get a separate brake line from the control module, or are they tied together as in a non-ABS system?

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #767
Do the rear brakes get a separate brake line from the control module, or are they tied together as in a non-ABS system?

Jay
They have separate brake lines from the control module. I talked with Jack about it a long time ago and he mentioned the only reason they are separate is due to traction control since you would need independent control of each wheel. If you get an ABS unit from a 94-97 car they only have 3 channels that's why most people normally use the earlier units in the fox body.
 

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Discussion Starter #768
I finally got the IRS and the gas tank in the car. I first got the front cradle mounts done then swung the back of the IRS down holding it uop with jack stands then used the lift table to put the gas tank in place and hook up the fuel lines. The I swung the IRS into place and put the bolts in for the rear upper cradle mount. If all goes well I shouldn't have to remove it. I still need to put fuel in it and make sure I don't have a fuel leak.



If the fuel system doesn't leak I'm going to get started on installing the brakes and looking at getting the rear bump steer set but I still have allot of work to do before I need to worry about it. I also started running the wiring to for the ABS sensors. I'm not sure where the ABS sensor connectors are in the 99-04 cobra's but I have a pretty good idea in how I'm going to run them. I'm going to follow the factory routing on the IRS cradle then I ran the along the front cradle mount to the body of the car and used the mounting bracket on the ABS sensors to mount it to the body of the car.





I'm going to have the connectors for the ABS sensors come out of the car area of the car which seems to be the easiest plan.



This way I can tuck the connectors up in this area and mount them so they stay out of the way and I can disconnect them if I have a bad sensors. My only real concern right now is a fuel leak. I will be bummed if I have to drop the IRS to fix a fuel leak. If it all goes well I'm going to start on the brakes so I can get the rear lines run and make sure the parking brake works. Then I can get the drive shaft installed and work on the exhaust. I will have to start the ABS wiring soon to get that out of the way. Still a very long list of work to do but I'm making progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #769
I primed the fuel system today and it went terrible I had a leak at the pressure line right where I flared it and used the tube sleeve and tube nut. I pulled the line back out of the car and the flare was good but not the best. I could feel something in the flare that made a mark on the fitting it was connected too so I made a new flare that felt really good but unfortunately it leaked also just not as bad. Not sure how to proceed now with it. It doesn't seem like flaring the line is going to work. I think I need to step back lick my wounds and figure out how to solve this problem.
 

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I finally got my torque adapter today, if you are serious about getting a proper torque value on those driveshaft bolts, this is the right tool. Don't even have to use a calculated setting if you keep the torque adapter at a right angle to the torque wrench handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #772
Is the inverted flare to AN fitting aluminum, or steel? If it is aluminum, I would try a steel version.

Jay
Its aluminum so the steel version might be better. I have one of these now that I'm going to give a try to see if it works.

Earl's Performance Tube Adapter Fittings AT165006ERL

These will hold up to 250psi so it should be plenty to hold what I'm doing if this fails I'm going to try a steel tube nut and tube sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter #773
I finally got my torque adapter today, if you are serious about getting a proper torque value on those driveshaft bolts, this is the right tool. Don't even have to use a calculated setting if you keep the torque adapter at a right angle to the torque wrench handle.
Do you have the part number of the torque adapter?
 

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Its aluminum so the steel version might be better. I have one of these now that I'm going to give a try to see if it works.

Earl's Performance Tube Adapter Fittings AT165006ERL

These will hold up to 250psi so it should be plenty to hold what I'm doing if this fails I'm going to try a steel tube nut and tube sleeve.
I used compression fittings like those to adapt to AN in the engine bay for both supply and return. They've been in there for a few years now, and have never caused any problems or leaks.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #777
I used compression fittings like those to adapt to AN in the engine bay for both supply and return. They've been in there for a few years now, and have never caused any problems or leaks.

Jay
I used the compression fittings and there working great no leaks so the fuel system is back to normal now time to focus on the IRS and getting everything installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #778
Got some work done on the car today. I was able to start it and there was no leaks in the fuel system so I feel good that the IRS is in and I won't have to remove it. I removed the steering rack in the car to put the SN95 arms in so I decided to torque them and get the steering rack back in the car. Since I had the steering rack zip tied to the sway bar I removed MM sway bar and installed the eibach sway bar.



Then I started working on getting the rear brakes in the car. I will say it was a pain in the ass getting the pads in the calipers



I also test fitted the shocks in the car to see how they worked and everything went good. I did install the springs on them yet since I'm going to have to set the toe and set the bump steer on the rear of the car.



Next I'm going to focus on getting the brake lines connected to the calipers and run so I can finish running the hard lines in the rear of the car. Then work on getting the parking brake cables run and connected.
 

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Man, your suspension is downright drool worthy! Great job, if it handles as good as it looks, should be a total beast. The MCS gear is downright sexy (if you're into that sort of thing) LOL.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #780
Man, your suspension is downright drool worthy! Great job, if it handles as good as it looks, should be a total beast. The MCS gear is downright sexy (if you're into that sort of thing) LOL.

Jay
Thanks man I hope it handles as good as it looks I'm betting it will. I feel like I've turned a corner with the car and I should be able to progress through the rest pretty quickly. The two major things I still need to cover is the rest of the brake lines and the wiring of the ABS unit.
 
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