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One set of frame brackets I bought came with the original bolts, one set I bought from FTBR, they measure 12mm x 1-3/8". All new nuts that are Ford stockers from Ford Parts Giant. I used the FTBR set on the track car, they do not have the captured washers on them like the stock set, and have 16 mm heads whereas the stock have a 15mm head. The holes on the side of the frame on an SN are exactly where they need to be, and have threaded nuts inside the rails, so it was pretty simple to install the brackets.

With the hole that just misses, I would probably weld the hole closed, and drill a new one.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #702
One set of frame brackets I bought came with the original bolts, one set I bought from FTBR, they measure 12mm x 1-3/8". All new nuts that are Ford stockers from Ford Parts Giant. I used the FTBR set on the track car, they do not have the captured washers on them like the stock set, and have 16 mm heads whereas the stock have a 15mm head. The holes on the side of the frame on an SN are exactly where they need to be, and have threaded nuts inside the rails, so it was pretty simple to install the brackets.

With the hole that just misses, I would probably weld the hole closed, and drill a new one.

Jay
I was thinking of using 1/2inch by 1-1/2inch long Grade 8 bolts for the ones that go through the bottom of the frame. The side one I'm most likely going to modify the bracket and move the bolt hole down to meet the factory quad shock mounting hole.
 

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Peter, have you seen the thread on ATS Brembo calipers? Possible new development with a larger piston rear caliper to accommodate the Brembo’s up front.


The autocross run looks great, I’ve gotta try that sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter #704
I did some work on the car last night. I pulled all the interior panels out of the trunk so I could get the upper control arm mounts for the 4 link out.



There's so many holes in the back of this car from the different suspension setups. I also mounted up one of the upper mounting brackets.



I have two plans I can do with the mounting of the upper brackets. The quickest less factory looking way would to be just drill holes in the bottom and side of the frame rails run a bolt into the frame rail and put a nut on the end and call it a day. this I could have done pretty quick because I can do it myself. I have all the factory mounting bolts so I would just have to find nuts that could go on the end. The route will take more time but look the cleanest. I could make a nut plate drop it into the frame rail through the trunk then cut the hole off the end of the mount and weld a new tab on the mount to make it line up with the second factory quad shock hole.



This is something I would need help with since I have no way of welding it myself. The guy that opened up the fenders on the rear of the car for the flares could do this in his sleep but its finding out if he has time. I'm not that concerned about making it look factory its not a show car and I doubt anyone would care. Let me know what you guys think. I'm going to check with my guy tomorrow to see what kind of availability he has for the next couple weeks. I also have someone else but not sure if they will have time to help out. I think its time to figure out how to get enough power in my garage to run a welder and learn how to weld.
 

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Is there a threaded nut on the inside of the frame at the rear quad shock location? If that is the case, I really like the welded tab idea.

For the vertical bolts, I ran the bolts up through the bracket and bottom frame rail, hole sawed a hole big enough to get a socket through, and bolted it up without using a nut plate. A bit tricky getting the nut started, and holding it from above while wrenching the bolt from below, but it worked out and wasn't too bad in the end. Another set of helping hands would have been very useful.

Jay
 

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BTW, a 115 Volt MIG welder will do just about anything a car hobby person would need, unless you want stainless and aluminum TIG capability, but that's a different conversation, and requires a fairly advanced skill set.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #707
Is there a threaded nut on the inside of the frame at the rear quad shock location? If that is the case, I really like the welded tab idea.

For the vertical bolts, I ran the bolts up through the bracket and bottom frame rail, hole sawed a hole big enough to get a socket through, and bolted it up without using a nut plate. A bit tricky getting the nut started, and holding it from above while wrenching the bolt from below, but it worked out and wasn't too bad in the end. Another set of helping hands would have been very useful.

Jay
The hole is threaded in the side so if I added the tab it would bolt right in. It would look the cleanest but take the most time to do. The first event of the season is Feb 8-9 so I'm shooting to have it done and ready to test drive no later then Feb 1 to make sure I don't have any problems. Obviously I want to have it done asap so I can get as many test miles on the car before I go race it.

Once I have the brackets in the car I don't think the assembly part of the IRS is going to take much time. I just want to get the sub frame in the car so I can see if there is any issues I just don't see right now. I'm going to drain the rest of the tank today and drop it then get the passenger side bracket mounted with the one bolt that lines up and test fit the sub frame. If I can get it in the car without an issue and it all lines up fine then I can do some of the other work on the car that also needs to get done while I figure out getting the brackets welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter #708
I got the tank drained and out of the car. I had to cut a little bit of bracket connected to the frame rail to get the bracket on the driver side to sit right. I got the bushings in the sub frame and ready to test fit it into the car.



I tried to attempt it myself but it wasn't working very well. I have to come up with a new plan for test fitting it. If the car was lower to the ground it would probably help.
 

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I tried to attempt it myself but it wasn't working very well. I have to come up with a new plan for test fitting it. If the car was lower to the ground it would probably help.
Put the floor jack under the cart and up she goes. At least that's how I got it into place.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #711
Put the floor jack under the cart and up she goes. At least that's how I got it into place.

Jay
I'm going to give that a try. I tried again last night by putting the jack under the sub frame and started to get it into place but I found you really need to get both sides of the lower mounts in at the same time or one side won't go in if its leaning to one side or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #712
I decided to give something a try getting the sub frame into the car. I had seen someone else use a lift cart they got at harbor freight to install the IRS they said it made it allot easier to install. So I went and picked one up and it does make it allot easier.



I had it most of the way in when I noticed one main problem. It hits the fuel hard lines.



I thought this might be a problem last night when I had it part of the way in now I know its a problem. I have a few options to fix the problem.

The first thing is to see if I can move the lines back which I know is going to be a bit of an issue since the subframe connectors are what pushed them towards the rear of the car in the first place.

I could cut the hard line on one of the straight sections take a few inches out and use an AN junction to reconnect them. This could open up other problems further down the line.

I could cut the lines just before the kick up to the trunk floor put an -6 AN tube nuts on hard lines and run the rest of the line using steel braided to route the lines clear of the suspension. I could also use a -6 AN 10 micron fuel filter and place it some where more accessible.



I could also replace all the hard lines with -6 AN steel braided which wouldn't be too big of a deal since I already have steel braided lines running from the hard lines to the fuel rails on the car. This would also give me the same size feed an return line not that I think that matters since I have to run the stock fuel rails for smog. It also has the benefit of placing the fuel filter where it might be more accessible.

Let me know what you guys think. I already have a really good tool for doing 37 degree AN flares on the stainless steel tube so that route shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #713
I looked it over more last night and I can't move the lines back anymore then they already are right now. I think my best bet is to either cut the end off and add a tube nut and replace the last part of the fuel line with steel braided line or just replace all the line with steel braided line. If I do the first one I will most likely remove the lines from the car to cut and put the ends on. I want to make sure they are as clean as possible since this will be after the filter.

I figure what I will do is cut this straight section in the middle and possibly use a 45 degree adapter to kick the lines up towards the floor of the trunk.



Then I will remove the factory style filter and replace it with a Aeromotive 10 micron filter and possibly mount it right in this area.



I'm going to get the lines cut tonight so I can try and get the IRS cradle in the car and see what other issues I might have with the install.
 

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That hydraulic lift cart is awesome, I would have built the whole assembly on the cart and put it in the car if I had one of those. It is a bit constricted sometimes building the assembly in the car. The upper control arms at the least need to be installed before the frame is fully bolted up or you can't get the bolts in. Getting to the sway bar mounts and the inner tie rod mounts are a whole lot easier out in the open.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #715
That hydraulic lift cart is awesome, I would have built the whole assembly on the cart and put it in the car if I had one of those. It is a bit constricted sometimes building the assembly in the car. The upper control arms at the least need to be installed before the frame is fully bolted up or you can't get the bolts in. Getting to the sway bar mounts and the inner tie rod mounts are a whole lot easier out in the open.

Jay
The cart is the way to go I'm going to fully build the IRS on the cart the roll it under the car. When I started to test fit the IRS cradle into the car I could tell assembling it once its in the car is going to be a pain especially the upper control arms.
 

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The coolness factor of seeing an IRS under my car is off the charts, pretty sure you're going to dig it as well once she's all buttoned up!

I still haven't bought the exhaust yet, or figured out the emergency brake cables, so not quite complete yet. I think if I had to do it over again, only thing I would change would be the rear brakes. I didn't realize when I bought the TCE system the rotors were only .840" thick (stock Cobra) as opposed to the MM kit which is 1.25" thick. The added thermal capability of the thicker rotors easily is more important to my track car than the emergency brake. Probably still plenty though for an HPDE car doing 20 minute sessions.

Jay
 

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While I'm thinking about it, one last detail I needed to deal with on the IRS build. On the passenger side of the center section, the front mount was not relieved enough for the aluminum spherical washers to sit down on the ears of the case. I had to relieve some material from both the upper and lower washer set to get them to seat properly. I don't know if my case was unusual or not, just something to keep an eye out for.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #718
The coolness factor of seeing an IRS under my car is off the charts, pretty sure you're going to dig it as well once she's all buttoned up!

I still haven't bought the exhaust yet, or figured out the emergency brake cables, so not quite complete yet. I think if I had to do it over again, only thing I would change would be the rear brakes. I didn't realize when I bought the TCE system the rotors were only .840" thick (stock Cobra) as opposed to the MM kit which is 1.25" thick. The added thermal capability of the thicker rotors easily is more important to my track car than the emergency brake. Probably still plenty though for an HPDE car doing 20 minute sessions.

While I'm thinking about it, one last detail I needed to deal with on the IRS build. On the passenger side of the center section, the front mount was not relieved enough for the aluminum spherical washers to sit down on the ears of the case. I had to relieve some material from both the upper and lower washer set to get them to seat properly. I don't know if my case was unusual or not, just something to keep an eye out for.

Jay
Yeah I can't wait to see the IRS under the car. When I had the cradle part way under the car I was getting excited then it hit the fuel line. I'm bummed about the fuel line issue since I will have to remove the hard lines to do the flaring but I think just flaring the hard lines and adding tube nuts is going to be the best route. Since I will have them out I'm thinking about cutting off the ends up front and putting AN tube nuts on those so I can go straight to the lines running to the fuel rails.

I really wanted to go with better brakes in the rear but for what I'm mainly going to do with the car the factory cobra calipers should work fine. If the day comes it moves to more of a track day car I will look at doing bigger brakes all the way around.

Thanks for the heads up I want to get started on building it right away but I would like to get the mount stuff worked out first. I just need to figure out if I'm going to do it the quick way or the clean way.
 

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Discussion Starter #719
I got more work on the car done last night. I marked and cut the fuel lines to get them ready to flare for the tube nuts. Then I went to install the IRS cradle I had it most of the way installed when I ran into a problem.



The IRS cradle hits the upper control arm mount. I got the lower mounts lined up where I could almost get the bolts through I just need something like a spud wrench to get the lower bolt holes lined up. The uppers won't go up far enough because the cradle is hitting the upper control arm mount. The passenger side of the car isn't as bad but I know once I get the IRS cradle further up it will start to become a problem.



I've read allot of threads on people doing IRS installs on fox bodies but never heard of someone running into this issue. I thought maybe the cradle is to far forward but the lower bolt holes line up fine. I'm going to take my cutting wheel tonight and cut out the section that is hitting the the cradle so I can hopefully get it test fitted tonight. Another note when I almost had the cradle into place I can see I won't be able to mount the fuel filter where I was planning. The upper control arm mounts get in the way.

I can already see doing any kind of work on the IRS when its in the car is going to be difficult to say the least. I can now see how much help this cart is going to be installing the IRS fully assembled.
 

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Yeah, that cart is going to make it so easy it's almost like cheating. Just out of curiosity (and the fact I have another IRS to mount) how much did that little jewel set you back?

Jay
 
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