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Discussion Starter #681
I finally got some time to work on the car today. I decided to do some work on the IRS. I got the upper control arms primed and ready for paint. I'm still debating whether or not I will paint the lower control arms.



I also got the knuckles put together and ready to install in the car.





Now that my work schedule is going back to normal I should be updating the thread more often. I'm going to be pushing to get the IRS done so I can start to install it as soon as the last autocross event is over.
 

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Obvious you don't live in the Rustbelt, no way I was going to leave my hubs unpainted! Your IRS project is coming along nicely, should have it in the car before long. Can't wait to see how you mount the brackets, and what you do with the exhaust, I'm sure you will do it well whatever direction you choose.

Maybe Jack will help us out with initial set-up suggestions (bump steer, toe, and camber) and if there would be differences between an autocross, and open track recommendation. I am thinking with the lack of compliance with the Delrin bushings, minimum bump steer, 0* toe, and a healthy amount of negative camber would be in order, but I'm actually fairly clueless as this is my first venture into the IRS arena.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #683
Obvious you don't live in the Rustbelt, no way I was going to leave my hubs unpainted! Your IRS project is coming along nicely, should have it in the car before long. Can't wait to see how you mount the brackets, and what you do with the exhaust, I'm sure you will do it well whatever direction you choose.
The hubs I got were zinc plated so they should hold up fine plus I live in CA so I'm not to worried. I already went with the Magnaflow exhaust for the car. I found a new kit on ebay never installed $600 plus I had $30 in ebay bucks plus free shipping so it was a good deal. I got the exhaust and it was brand new didn't even look like they opened the box but it was marked as an open box. He has 3 more of them if you decide to go Magnaflow. I have my ideas on how I want to do the brackets but I know once I have the axle out of the car and I look at it for a bit I will come up with a plan. I just need to get the cradle ready to test fit

Maybe Jack will help us out with initial set-up suggestions (bump steer, toe, and camber) and if there would be differences between an autocross, and open track recommendation. I am thinking with the lack of compliance with the Delrin bushings, minimum bump steer, 0* toe, and a healthy amount of negative camber would be in order, but I'm actually fairly clueless as this is my first venture into the IRS arena.

Jay
The setup is the only thing I'm not to sure on right now. I'm guessing what I have learned on the front is going to change now that the car will have an IRS rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #684
I finally finished up the big project at work and the last part shipped out yesterday. Now its back to working on the car. I finished up painting the upper control arms. I'm going to work on getting the bushings in them tomorrow.



They came out good hopefully the finish will hold up. I used an engine paint since it can handle heat, oil and other fluids. I'm also going to do the lower control arms I just need to clean them up a bit then get the primed. My current focus on the car is getting the power steering worked out and ready for the last event. I have a few weeks so I should be able to get it done. I'm also making my plan for the end of the season so I can jump right into all the things I'm going to do before the new season starts.

The suspension update

Obviously top of the list is the IRS install in the car. That's going to take the bulk of the work. I'm also looking at put SN95 length arms on the front of the car to see if I can start to eliminate some of the wheel spacers. To help in this I've been looking at a 10.5 inch wide wheel since a 315 will still fit on them. I also have a set of MCS coilovers coming for the car with 8inch front springs that should help with clearance since part of my problem right now is I had to add more spacers to keep the tire from hitting the spring on the coilovers. I'm also trying to get more camber out of the front. Right now maxed out I can only get about 2.2 degrees negative before I start to hit the strut tower. I'm hoping moving everything out I can get to 3 degrees.

The brakes

Installing the ABS module which might actually be more work then the IRS install. I have a pretty good plan for this right now. I had originally thought I would run all new lines to each wheel and the master cylinder. Now I'm going to run lines where ever I can to connect to the factory lines to the wheels instead of running new lines out to the wheels. I'm also going to get straight lines with fittings on them and just bend them how I need to avoid having to do a bunch of flares. I think this will be the quickest way of handling the lines. I also got the steel braided lines for the IRS from MM and there brake hardline kit for putting an IRS into a fox mustang. My plan is to run the rear lines to MM lines and using unions to connect them. The wiring I have all the wire I need for the power and sensors. I still need the fuse holder and relay. Which I'm planning on getting in the next few days.

The body work

This going to be the last thing I'm going to focus on all the mechanical stuff comes first. I do want to make the car look better not show quality but a good 50 footer. The main part will be getting the fenders bonded to the body of the car then work on blending the flares to the car. The last part will be getting the car ready to wrap. I'm not going to get fancy with it just straight red with black side molding. I also have a set of race louvers for the car that I'm going to add to the hood. I've also looked at doing a lexan spoiler for the rear of the car. Something like this owner did on his car.




This should get me to a point of just maintaining the car for a long time. The only concern I have for the car is how long the trans will hold up. Right now I think its the only weak link in the car. I'm going to keep running it until its done but during that time look at either new gear set for the car or new trans. I've also looked at going to a T5Z super duty trans. I'm not going to launching the car hard or anything crazy so it should hold up fine behind my motor.

The fun part will be getting all of this done in a hopefully two month window. I'm going to start on some of it now. I can mount and wire the ABS unit now since I can just leave it unplugged. I'm also getting all the parts I need now so I have everything ready and don't have to wait on anything. Its going to be a ton of work but it should be possible.
 

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Peter those upper control arms look fantastic! I wish I had ordered the two new hubs I bought with the plating, ultimate corrosion resistance for sure.

I'm curious about your decision to add the ABS to your braking system, is there a tendency in autocross to lock the brakes? Do you think the ABS will contribute to lower lap times? With most modern cars already equipped with ABS, do those drivers often employ it on the course?

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #686
Peter those upper control arms look fantastic! I wish I had ordered the two new hubs I bought with the plating, ultimate corrosion resistance for sure.

I'm curious about your decision to add the ABS to your braking system, is there a tendency in autocross to lock the brakes? Do you think the ABS will contribute to lower lap times? With most modern cars already equipped with ABS, do those drivers often employ it on the course?

Jay
The ABS will help keeping from locking up the brakes. The few events I've done I locked up one of the fronts at least once mostly when the tires are cold. Its just add insurance to protect the tires. I might not trigger it but its nice to know I have it just in case. If it keeps me from ruining a new $350 dollar tire it will be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #687
Got some work done on the car nothing really major. I installed the upper control arm bushings. I thought it might be more difficult put them in the freezer for a day then installed went in pretty easy.



I test fitted the arms to the sub frame and they went together easy. I also painted the lower control arms. They came out good it should look good all together.



Now I'm working on cleaning up the sub frame so I can start to paint it this weekend.



Almost have it all cleaned up still have a couple of nights working on it before its ready. Its probably going to take a couple weekends to get it painted. I figure this weekend will be getting primer on it then next weekend will be paint. Then I still need to work on the rear sway bar center section brace. The upper sub frame mounts I'm going to hold off on until I make a plan for mounting them.
 

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Discussion Starter #688
IRS

I got the rear sub-frame in primer now I'm happy with the way it came out. I'm going to let it sit for the week then paint it black next weekend.



I'm going to take the center section to get rebuilt on Tuesday so it will be all ready to go in the car when I need it.

ABS

I've been doing more research on how I want to do the hard lines. My biggest issue was the 12mm and 10mm lines and getting the right bubble flares. I did some research and I found some adapters that go 12mm ISO Bubble flare to 3/8-24 inverted flare and 10mm ISO Bubble flare to 3/8-24 inverted flare that I can use on the ABS unit to convert all the lines. This should make things allot easier. Then I can get sections of 3/16 lines with the 3/8-24 inverted flares already made to cut down on the number of flares I will have to create. This should speed up the process.

Steering

I seem to have the steering worked out. Basically I've been rebuilding it by resealing everything and checking all the line connections. I also took the rack out to make sure there wasn't anything wrong with it. I took the car on a few mile drive and everything seems in order when it comes to noise. The only problem I ran into is some how I messed up and didn't get it installed straight. When I drove the car down the street with the steering wheel straight the car would go to the right not bad but I had to turn the wheel to the left about a 1/4 of an inch maybe more to keep it driving straight so that was annoying. I'm going to work on getting that fixed this week so I can test drive it next weekend.
 

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Your axle is going to look fabulous! As always nice work. Glad you got the steering noise sorted, looking forward to your next outing.

Picked out an exhaust for the track car, it's a 3" Stainless Works system. I looked at the Magnaflow system for my daily, I'm going to use something made with 304 stainless, the 409 will still rust, again probably no concern in your location.


Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #690
Your axle is going to look fabulous! As always nice work. Glad you got the steering noise sorted, looking forward to your next outing.

Picked out an exhaust for the track car, it's a 3" Stainless Works system. I looked at the Magnaflow system for my daily, I'm going to use something made with 304 stainless, the 409 will still rust, again probably no concern in your location.


Jay
Its good the noise is gone but we will see if the problem is solved it drives fine on the street but I won't really know if its fixed until the next time I run it.

That's a really nice exhaust system. I looked at it but I knew the magna flow system will meet the noise requirements I have at the autocross. I really didn't want to go over sound and have to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #691
This week I did work on the steering of the car to get it ready to test drive this weekend to make sure the steering is straight. Next weekend is the last event of the year so I need it to be good since I won't have another chance to test drive it before the event so fingers crossed. I centered the steering wheel and set the toe on the car.



ABS

I got the adapters for the ABS module. I didn't pay enough attention to notice that only one of the ports is a 12mm and the other 5 were 10mm so I was short on my 10mm adapters. I ordered another 10mm adapter which should come next week.



The other issue is the 12mm adapter doesn't seem to be long enough I think it bottoms out on the threads before it reaches the bottom of the ABS module. Its really close but I think it won't make a good seal so I might have to try and locate another one.



If the threading went to the top I think it would work but its a bit to short. Again I'm going to look for a longer one if I can't find one since these were hard to find then I will see what I can do with what I have now.

IRS

I got the center section out for rebuild now. They ran a pattern on the gears and they look really good so I don't need to replace them. They were pretty back logged so it won't be ready until next week. I'm going to work on getting the sub frame painted this weekend so its ready to start test fitting as soon as the live axle is out of the car. I should have all the parts I need for the install so I won't need to wait for anything. I also got a picture of the MCS coilovers that are going into the car from Race Ready Motorsports yesterday. They have a couple things they need for them but hopefully they will be able to get them out to me next week.



I think I'm ready to start the install of the IRS on the car. It will be the main focus and the first thing I'm going to try and complete. I think once I have the sub frame mounted the rest should go pretty easy or at least that's what I think now who knows what issues are lurking once I get it mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter #692
Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to test drive the car this weekend. I had to take care of something on Sunday and just couldn't get time to do it. I did get the IRS sub frame painted I'm going to do another coat but it came out pretty good so far.



Another step closer to getting it ready for install. I still need to clean and paint the sway bar and axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #693
I got the center section back from Pro Gear today and everything looks good. The cleaned it out checked the gears replaced all the seals, bearings installed the torsen and new diff cover.




Its all ready to go into the car once I get all the mounting of the sub frame done.

ABS

I've been doing more thinking about the ABS install. The plan is to mount the unit in the car under the dash. I will have to pass the lines from inside the car to the outside. I'm been thinking about using -3 AN bulkhead connectors to pass through the fire wall and back of the car. Then I was thinking of covert -3an though out the system using tube nuts on all the fittings. I would have to make my own lines I don't need to run the lines to the wheels I can just connect to the hard lines that are already up front and in the rear I can connect to the MMBAK-21 IRS swap brake line kit that I have for the back of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #694
Last night I started working on getting the ABS module mounted in the car. The first part is getting rid of mounting tab on the back of the ABS module bracket.



I had to drill out the spot welds and pull it off.



I'm going to mount it as low as I can in the car it shouldn't get in the way to much with the foot area on the passenger side of the car.



I was going to run bolts through to hold the bracket but due to placement I'm going to use rivnuts.



I also need to add another mounting hole to the bracket around the bottom center to hold it down.



I'm going to try and get the bracket mounted tonight so I can start to figure out how I'm going to run all the brake lines. The hard part I'm finding is where I'm going to run the 4 lines though the firewall for the master cylinder and the front brakes. I did some mapping out last night but finding its going to be a little harder then I thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #695
I got the ABS module bracket mounted under the dash. I had to mount it about an inch higher then I wanted but I still have plenty of clearance for connecting the brake lines.



I need to get new bolts to hold it in the ones I had barely reached but it was enough to hold the bracket in the car. I still need to cut a notch in the carpet and fix some of the boom mat but it came out good.
 

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Discussion Starter #696
I got the car out for a 50 mile drive today. The car steered straight when the wheel was centered so that was nice I really didn't want to have to deal with that plus it would have meant missing the event at least with the mustang. So fingers crossed it does well at the event and comes home under its own power. Then bring it home and start taking it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #697
Last event in the books for the year and it really went good. I still ended up 5th today but instead of being 1.5 seconds off the leaders I was less then half a second. The steering felt good and worked really well so I that problem should be solved. I had the lead on my first run but just could keep it up but happy with the results. Here's the final run of the year.


Now its time to start the IRS install on the car can't wait to get started.
 

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Discussion Starter #698
Day one of the update out with the old.







I got all the rear suspension out of the car. I was hoping to keep the gas tank in the car but it looks like it will have to get pulled to get the sub frame installed.
 

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That looks very familiar! Are you going to be able to use those brakes on the IRS?

In my SN model tank was in the way of being able to drill holes for the vertical bolts in the frame brackets, I'm pretty sure it would make access to rearward components (sway bar, tie rods) difficult if not impossible.

My plan to drill holes in the trunk area to access nuts worked very well and made for a clean install. I used a one inch hole saw which is big enough to pass the nuts through (bolts were slightly larger). I found some 1" nylon plugs at the hardware store to cover the holes in the trunk. I don't know if this would work for your application, it was a no-brainer for mine.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #700
That looks very familiar! Are you going to be able to use those brakes on the IRS?

In my SN model tank was in the way of being able to drill holes for the vertical bolts in the frame brackets, I'm pretty sure it would make access to rearward components (sway bar, tie rods) difficult if not impossible.

My plan to drill holes in the trunk area to access nuts worked very well and made for a clean install. I used a one inch hole saw which is big enough to pass the nuts through (bolts were slightly larger). I found some 1" nylon plugs at the hardware store to cover the holes in the trunk. I don't know if this would work for your application, it was a no-brainer for mine.

Jay
The brakes won't work on my car so I'm going to use the factory cobra brakes on the car. I'm going to try and drop the tank today and get the sub frame bolted up to the lower control arm mounts so I can start looking at how I'm going to mount the upper sub frame mounts. The hardest one to figure out is the one on the side at the rear of the bracket. The quad shock hole doesn't line up it just misses. What size bolts did you use to hold the brackets in the car?
 
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