'87 20th Anniversary Cougar7.0 427W
While "throwing parts" at it is wasteful and hoping on luck, I'm eager to see if Indy is willing to fly to where this person lives and show them how to do these basic tests.
I’m fully a beginner and I have a lot to learn. I also don’t want to screw something up by fiddling with the wrong stuff.While "throwing parts" at it is wasteful and hoping on luck, I'm eager to see how if Indy is willing to fly to where this person lives and show them how to do these basic tests.
Ok, what do you suggest?
I don’t have an EGR on the car anymore, so I’m not sure if it’s related to that systemYou have the EGR not opening correctly code.
IF the EGR valve has stuck in the open-or partially open-position, it will idle very poorly to not at all if the EGR valve is allowing EGR gasses into the intake at idle. It is supposed to happen only at part throttle (cruising).
This would also cause a lean condition as unmetered air (gasses) are entering post MAF.
If you have a vacuum hand pump, attach it to the EGR valve, pull vacuum on it and see if the valve moves in and out.
Even if it does, though, it could have carboned up to the point it will not close properly.
Consider picking up an EGR valve gasket, pull the valve and take a look at it.
Hmmm I did try this. Disconnected the battery, turned the headlight switch on (to drain residual charges/current from the system, idk someone said todo that) and waited an hour and then reconnected the battery. No changes from doing that, it still shuts off same as it did before.Well, you can try to reset KAM.
Disconnect battery for ~30 minutes, reconnect and start it up and see what happens.
If it continues to run after it warms up, seems like you can look into the O2 issue.
I’ve talked to a few local shops and some of my buddies in the car community down here and I really don’t understand how it could be anything but the O2 sensors. All the TPS/IAC stuff on the car is brand new and the car ran just fine for over a year and I haven’t adjusted or changed anything before this problem developed. The car does not have any issues other than at idle. It does not ping or belch smoke or anything. All the vacuum lines and **** are intact. All the electrical stuff appears to be intact. The computer was reworked with new capacitors relatively recently. Salt and pepper shakers were redone recently. New fuel pump, etc. The car does not have an EGR or a smog system. There are no melted wires or faulty connections or any of that.
I feel like I can run tests until I’m blue in the face but what is the actual theory as to what’s wrong here at this point? Does anyone have any actual thoughts on what the issue might be? What am I even looking for as far as a test result and what would that point to??
I’m a beginner and people say “test this test that” and I’ve done everything I can up to my skill level but people are saying oh check the electrical signals for this and that and I straight up don’t know how to do that ****.
“therefore, check sensor signal at the ecm, then at the sensor connector”
I don’t know how to do this. I don’t know where this ** is and I don’t know even know what the ** I’m looking for.
I’m gonna be sticking electrical probes in random connectors in the far without a clue. None of these tutorials online show exactly what to do. It’s just “make sure the voltage is XYZ” and I have not a ****ing clue how to do that.
Dont underestimate how new I am to this. Yes, I have to be told exactly what to use to perform the electrical test and exactly where to stick the wires. Don’t assume I know any of that **** because I dont
I honestly don’t think anyone has any idea what the actual problem is. I’m trying to get the car to a shop but everyone is booked up for weeks and I’m starting to feel like I’m chasing my tail here.
people that already know system design and theory of operation, are telling you what to test for
no one is beside you to tell you what to connect and how, THAT IS UP TO YOU TO DO
YOU NEED WIRING DIAGRAMS IN FRONT OF YOU, YOU WANT TO LEARN, BUY THEM
NOBODY CAN DO THIS WITHOUT THEM
sounds like you want to fix your car, with this ‘simple’ fix from the internet
PEOPLE MAKE A LIVING. fixing cars like yours, you are the one that decided you want to fix, without any prior knowledge, how did you think it was going to turn out?
AND STOP WITH THE, ‘I DONT UNDERSTAND IT WAS RUNNING FINE ONE MINUTE THEN THE NEXT NOT’
all things work UNTIL THEY DONT
so shall we stop with diagnosis?
sounds like you are a quitter
And there we have it, folks. Of course it's not going to turn out well. I guess my mistake was trying to fix it myself and asking people on the internet for advice."PEOPLE MAKE A LIVING. fixing cars like yours, you are the one that decided you want to fix, without any prior knowledge, how did you think it was going to turn out?"
So I'm supposed to just know this **** huh? Just like magic? I'm not asking you to fly down here and do the tests for me, dude."No one is beside you to tell you what to connect and how, THAT IS UP TO YOU TO DO"
Alright I'm going to order some. Did not know something like that existed.you need wiring diagrams, that tell you where the connectors are, and pin numbers, wire colors etc
they cost money, the wiring diagram you post are generic termination diagrams
rarely are the wiring home runs like in those diagrams
you can ask all the questions you like, I certainly dont have a problem with that
I have a problem when you dont put the effort in to learn, USE YOUR TIME NOT mine.
go to the 02 sensor and follow the wiring to the connectors back to the ecm
I will explain what and how you need to test it
want to learn, or not?
dont feel bad if you, this aint for a lot of people, that is why you can HIRE them
Oh wow you got me, I posted on a different forum to try to get as much advice as possible. Lmao asking questions is wasting people's time? Feel free to move on if you have nothing to add, boss man. Sounds like you don't have any theories on what it is either.