Aside from the distributor and two TFI’s eating themselves, the car ran fine as far as I can tell. It has issues that I’m not sure are entirely unusual for a cammed car, like sometimes it would stall coming to a stop with the AC on. But it ran and drove well enough without any obvious issues of being too lean or rich, or anything like that. I’m sure it’s not making as much power as it could be if it had a tune, but it has run well enough. The guy who sold it to me told me it had not been tuned.this car ran perfect for 5K miles without a tune?
I have never seen one do that.........
yep typical, but far from fun to drive in my opinionAside from the distributor and two TFI’s eating themselves, the car ran fine as far as I can tell. It has issues that I’m not sure are entirely unusual for a cammed car, like sometimes it would stall coming to a stop with the AC on. But it ran and drove well enough without any obvious issues of being too lean or rich, or anything like that. I’m sure it’s not making as much power as it could be if it had a tune, but it has run well enough. The guy who sold it to me told me it had not been tuned.
engineering perfect or real world perfect? ive run 110mph with hci ,a stock computer, full accessories and 22mpg with 3.73s and a 5spd. most guys did stuff like this back in the late 90s early 2000s. it isnt complicated. you are splitting hairs. if you have the answer give it to him. sounds like you dont.
Yea I mean you’re not wrong. The hot and cold start issues are more intermittent though, and I always assumed the bucking at low RPM was more just due to the cam. The car vastly improved when I bumped the timing to 14 degrees. I think it was set at 10 beforeyep typical, but far from fun to drive in my opinion
I am sure there issues with starts hot and cold, and low load bucking
I'd start with a compression test to rule out things like a flat cam lobe, rocker arm that came out of adjustment, broken lifter, etc. It's quick and easy. Look for consistency across cylinders, if one is low, that's where to look. It can run on seven cylinders. Rule out the valvetrain, if there is a problem you'll break more parts until you do. New parts break sometimes and get out of adjustment.I have not done a compression test, but the heads and the entire valve train are pretty new with less than 5k miles on them (all Ford Racing and Trick Flow hardware for the valve train, including the lifters) and about 1k miles ago I had a professional go through and adjust the rocker arms and in the process I also had him replace all the pushrods and some other hardware (including guide plates) out of an abundance of caution. Also the car isn’t exhibiting other symptoms of compression issues at any RPM. The only issue it has is it dies at idle. It runs fine otherwise as far as I can tell
lol ford tech...I did try disconnecting the battery and letting it drain down and I also verified that the timing is set properly (14 degrees base timing) but I don’t know if it would make a difference as far as the battery disconnect.
I really would like to diagnose the issue but it seems as though I’m at a dead end. I also had my mechanic friend do a once-over and make sure everything looks good visually, and he couldn’t find anything. He’s been a Ford tech for 30 years and he’s done quite a few foxbody builds over the years so I dunno. He didn’t do any in-depth stuff though.
I may just have it towed to a shop honestly
im afraid your reading comprehension is clouded by your attempts at demonstrating your superior knowledge.
that is exactly how my car ran. and still does. tuning with fuelpressure and playing with timing. daily driver.
your mind would probably implode if u knew the same car and an strim ran 124mph, stock computer, fmu, and a btm. same idle, same driveability. same daily driver. and ya that was 20yrs ago lol.
90s tech, says the guy running a 30yr old ecu with a tweecer.
you are the gfub master, no doubt. but a good running 302 isnt black magic.
Ok so what does that mean as far as WOT press, do I check the codes with the engine off but throttle to the floor?You could do cold, but will get codes saying temp sensors out of range. Do again warm, or skip cold altogether. Then do koer. Be aware it takes a little time to get the cylinder balance codes after entering that mode (wot press after koer codes are done).