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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
this car ran perfect for 5K miles without a tune?

I have never seen one do that.........
Aside from the distributor and two TFI’s eating themselves, the car ran fine as far as I can tell. It has issues that I’m not sure are entirely unusual for a cammed car, like sometimes it would stall coming to a stop with the AC on. But it ran and drove well enough without any obvious issues of being too lean or rich, or anything like that. I’m sure it’s not making as much power as it could be if it had a tune, but it has run well enough. The guy who sold it to me told me it had not been tuned.
 

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engineering perfect or real world perfect? ive run 110mph with hci ,a stock computer, full accessories and 22mpg with 3.73s and a 5spd. most guys did stuff like this back in the late 90s early 2000s. it isnt complicated. you are splitting hairs. if you have the answer give it to him. sounds like you dont.
 

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Aside from the distributor and two TFI’s eating themselves, the car ran fine as far as I can tell. It has issues that I’m not sure are entirely unusual for a cammed car, like sometimes it would stall coming to a stop with the AC on. But it ran and drove well enough without any obvious issues of being too lean or rich, or anything like that. I’m sure it’s not making as much power as it could be if it had a tune, but it has run well enough. The guy who sold it to me told me it had not been tuned.
yep typical, but far from fun to drive in my opinion

I am sure there issues with starts hot and cold, and low load bucking
 

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engineering perfect or real world perfect? ive run 110mph with hci ,a stock computer, full accessories and 22mpg with 3.73s and a 5spd. most guys did stuff like this back in the late 90s early 2000s. it isnt complicated. you are splitting hairs. if you have the answer give it to him. sounds like you dont.

and they all ran like crap, unless you are WOT, livin 1/4 mile at a time, udder crap.

far from splitting hairs......


what answer are you talking about? this is diagnosing........
 
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
yep typical, but far from fun to drive in my opinion

I am sure there issues with starts hot and cold, and low load bucking
Yea I mean you’re not wrong. The hot and cold start issues are more intermittent though, and I always assumed the bucking at low RPM was more just due to the cam. The car vastly improved when I bumped the timing to 14 degrees. I think it was set at 10 before
 

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the spark change will help, because that is how the ECM controls idle rpm, IAC is for air changes

it thinks you have it at 10, it dont know you have it at 14,

so, its dropping spark and IAC control is all but shut, trying to achieve an idle speed it cannot

the timing adjustment, is just masking an issue, and has it negative effects....

but we will get to all that, in time
 

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I have not done a compression test, but the heads and the entire valve train are pretty new with less than 5k miles on them (all Ford Racing and Trick Flow hardware for the valve train, including the lifters) and about 1k miles ago I had a professional go through and adjust the rocker arms and in the process I also had him replace all the pushrods and some other hardware (including guide plates) out of an abundance of caution. Also the car isn’t exhibiting other symptoms of compression issues at any RPM. The only issue it has is it dies at idle. It runs fine otherwise as far as I can tell
I'd start with a compression test to rule out things like a flat cam lobe, rocker arm that came out of adjustment, broken lifter, etc. It's quick and easy. Look for consistency across cylinders, if one is low, that's where to look. It can run on seven cylinders. Rule out the valvetrain, if there is a problem you'll break more parts until you do. New parts break sometimes and get out of adjustment.
 

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lol what kinda n/a pushrod 5liter 1/4mi at a time car gets 22mpg with a/c and idles at 700rpm? just because you say something doesnt make it so.
 

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exactly MY point...........it wont happen

thats why your '90s "tuning" never worked like you said
 

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I did try disconnecting the battery and letting it drain down and I also verified that the timing is set properly (14 degrees base timing) but I don’t know if it would make a difference as far as the battery disconnect.

I really would like to diagnose the issue but it seems as though I’m at a dead end. I also had my mechanic friend do a once-over and make sure everything looks good visually, and he couldn’t find anything. He’s been a Ford tech for 30 years and he’s done quite a few foxbody builds over the years so I dunno. He didn’t do any in-depth stuff though.

I may just have it towed to a shop honestly
lol ford tech...
 

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im afraid your reading comprehension is clouded by your attempts at demonstrating your superior knowledge.

that is exactly how my car ran. and still does. tuning with fuelpressure and playing with timing. daily driver.

your mind would probably implode if u knew the same car and an strim ran 124mph, stock computer, fmu, and a btm. same idle, same driveability. same daily driver. and ya that was 20yrs ago lol.

90s tech, says the guy running a 30yr old ecu with a tweecer.

you are the gfub master, no doubt. but a good running 302 isnt black magic.
 

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im afraid your reading comprehension is clouded by your attempts at demonstrating your superior knowledge.

that is exactly how my car ran. and still does. tuning with fuelpressure and playing with timing. daily driver.

your mind would probably implode if u knew the same car and an strim ran 124mph, stock computer, fmu, and a btm. same idle, same driveability. same daily driver. and ya that was 20yrs ago lol.

90s tech, says the guy running a 30yr old ecu with a tweecer.

you are the gfub master, no doubt. but a good running 302 isnt black magic.

drove like a turd, had all the typical symptoms, you just didn't mind it

you probably carried a spare TFi, flatblade so you could adjust things that are not adjustable
 

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yea, that is what i thought

keep flapping

if what you claim was remotely true, there would have been no need to hack the binary

you are not alone, so dont feel special, there are still people like you on youtube claiming the same thing

then their turd acts up, and they bring out the flat blade tuner…..entertaining i tell ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Code reader got here just now. Working now so I’ll check later.

Could my issues possibly be related to a dying ignition switch? One of my buddies mentioned he had similar issues and it was the ignition switch.

Will pull codes after work. I’m assuming I should do key on engine off with the car cold?
 

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You could do cold, but will get codes saying temp sensors out of range. Do again warm, or skip cold altogether. Then do koer. Be aware it takes a little time to get the cylinder balance codes after entering that mode (wot press after koer codes are done).
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
You could do cold, but will get codes saying temp sensors out of range. Do again warm, or skip cold altogether. Then do koer. Be aware it takes a little time to get the cylinder balance codes after entering that mode (wot press after koer codes are done).
Ok so what does that mean as far as WOT press, do I check the codes with the engine off but throttle to the floor?
 

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No.
KOEO, turn reader on, turn key to run (don’t start), press test on reader. wait for codes.
I forget the exact preceedure for KOER, but I think you do the same except start engine then press test. After codes are read if you want to do a cylinder balance test, you do 1 quick wot press to enter that mode. Then wait.
It’s all in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Ok, I just ran the codes.

81 - air diverter solenoid fault, intake aircontrol circuit fault/air injection diverter

82 - integrated relay control module

84 - EGR vacuum regulator circuit failure

No “stored” codes(just says “11” after the 10 code break)

My smog system has been deleted since before I’ve had the car so I’m really at a loss here
 
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