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Aside from the distributor and two TFI’s eating themselves, the car ran fine as far as I can tell. It has issues that I’m not sure are entirely unusual for a cammed car, like sometimes it would stall coming to a stop with the AC on. But it ran and drove well enough without any obvious issues of being too lean or rich, or anything like that. I’m sure it’s not making as much power as it could be if it had a tune, but it has run well enough. The guy who sold it to me told me it had not been tuned.
yep typical, but far from fun to drive in my opinion

I am sure there issues with starts hot and cold, and low load bucking
 

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engineering perfect or real world perfect? ive run 110mph with hci ,a stock computer, full accessories and 22mpg with 3.73s and a 5spd. most guys did stuff like this back in the late 90s early 2000s. it isnt complicated. you are splitting hairs. if you have the answer give it to him. sounds like you dont.

and they all ran like crap, unless you are WOT, livin 1/4 mile at a time, udder crap.

far from splitting hairs......


what answer are you talking about? this is diagnosing........
 
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the spark change will help, because that is how the ECM controls idle rpm, IAC is for air changes

it thinks you have it at 10, it dont know you have it at 14,

so, its dropping spark and IAC control is all but shut, trying to achieve an idle speed it cannot

the timing adjustment, is just masking an issue, and has it negative effects....

but we will get to all that, in time
 

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exactly MY point...........it wont happen

thats why your '90s "tuning" never worked like you said
 

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im afraid your reading comprehension is clouded by your attempts at demonstrating your superior knowledge.

that is exactly how my car ran. and still does. tuning with fuelpressure and playing with timing. daily driver.

your mind would probably implode if u knew the same car and an strim ran 124mph, stock computer, fmu, and a btm. same idle, same driveability. same daily driver. and ya that was 20yrs ago lol.

90s tech, says the guy running a 30yr old ecu with a tweecer.

you are the gfub master, no doubt. but a good running 302 isnt black magic.

drove like a turd, had all the typical symptoms, you just didn't mind it

you probably carried a spare TFi, flatblade so you could adjust things that are not adjustable
 

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yea, that is what i thought

keep flapping

if what you claim was remotely true, there would have been no need to hack the binary

you are not alone, so dont feel special, there are still people like you on youtube claiming the same thing

then their turd acts up, and they bring out the flat blade tuner…..entertaining i tell ya.
 

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since you are unable to perform engine running codes and you dont have maf or fuel trim codes

And you can keep the engine running with throttle


airflow is still on the table, dont you think?
 

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We could not call the ECM, until you can verify the inputs, and power and grounds to the ECM are good.


Since you said it can run with more air, should we not try to retrieve running codes at warm temp, ie keep it running on its own at temp, by increasing airflow at temp

what do you suggest do to get more air while at operating temp?
 

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Verifying the inputs/power/grounds is a little above my skill level unless someone can tell me how to do that.



The codes I ran were with the engine at operating temp; I held the throttle open to keep it running to get it there.

so I should run the KEOR codes with the throttle held open?
the codes you posted, does not specifically say engine running or off

do engine off
list them

then engine running

list them
 

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lol. no idea at all. keep chasing the "air pedal".

thanx for your admission, just it case you didn't know the throttle ONLY controls AIR


only chasing the data the testing has shown, something a parts thrower like yourself wouldnt know about.
 

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Lucky for you, brakes have been brakes since the dawn of brakes, or else i am sure ya F&%k them up as well
 
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For what it’s worth, I just spent about 20 minutes closely checking all the vacuum lines and electrical connectors (just visually). Everything looks brand new.

I may have reached the end of my competency here. I plan on having it towed to a shop next weekend. Otherwise I’m just gonna be throwing parts at it.

visual test can only go so far, actual smoke and meters will be needed

if you can keep the car running, with the pedal,

you could be able to turn a screw, that has been laid out for ya clearly by cougar…..

ensure you do not exceed 1.15v TPS, or at least measure before voltage and after

so if you need to g back, you have a reference
 
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did you learn your lesson with the IAC, it did not need replacing, but you couldn't resist

now you have a 91, what do you suggest first?
 

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Ok, what do you suggest?

see if the sensor is lying, for the ecm to trigger a DTC, it must have met the rich limit

therefore, check sensor signal at the ecm, then at the sensor connector

you could have an open signal wire, ie melted to exhuast...........

get dirty, start testing, or take it in.........
 
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