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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
do the test, i said it was good, why are you even thinking maf or tps?

STAY THE COURSE! ONE THING at ONE TIME!

report what you find.

and stop!! with the excuses
Ok here’s where I’m at.

I went outside and tried to crank it. It made crunching/clicking sounds almost like a dead battery but not quite, and wouldn’t crank. I adjusted the battery cable terminal and was eventually able to get it to start. (I have video of the noise it made).

I tried disconnecting the IAC. CEL came on, but the car would idle and did the same thing it’s been doing (dying after a few minutes).

I tried disconnecting the MAF. Same exact thing.

I tried disconnecting the TPS. Same exact thing.

I tried disconnecting the other sensor that’s in the cold air intake tube between the MAF and the TB. Same exact thing.

When I first reconnected the unknown sensor and started it with everything in place, it cranked for about 4-5 seconds before it would fire.

Observing the idle closely, it seems to sputter for just one rotation before it dies. It doesn’t struggle at a low idle, it just drops extremely quickly and dies. But prior to that, it idles at a normal RPM.

I also tried a few more times to start it and let it run with everything intact. A couple times it would fire and then IMMEDIATELY die.

My theory is that the IAC is physically stuck or clogged, and needs to be replaced or cleaned.
 

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you started it, then unplugged IAC, and it continued to run without any rpm drop?

what do you mean, you tried to disconnect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
you started it, then unplugged IAC, and it continued to run without any rpm drop?

what do you mean, you tried to disconnect?
Correct, and I also tried restarting it with it disconnected and it acted the same.

“Tried to disconnect” meaning I disconnected the other sensors and tried the same procedure.
 

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when it was running and you unplugged it, the idle did NOT drop or stall engine?

this is very important to be very accurate, unless you have a scope, internet diag requires you to be extremely accurate.

i am ignoring all the other stuff you are doing, i dont diag like a chicken with its head cut off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
when it was running and you unplugged it, the idle did NOT drop or stall engine?

this is very important to be very accurate, unless you have a scope, internet diag requires you to be extremely accurate.

i am ignoring all the other stuff you are doing, i dont diag like a chicken with its head cut off.
Honestly, it doesn’t keep running for long so I had to run around and disconnect it. It eventually stalled soon thereafter (maybe a few seconds), but not immediately.
I didn’t notice much of a change in the idle at all, it’s hard to tell with the cam it has. I did also restart it with it disconnected and no difference to how it acted otherwise.
 

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So it doesn't run cold?

you said it did????

if your information is NOT ACCURATE, this diag will get botched, much like your HCI install
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So it doesn't run cold?

you said it did????

if your information is NOT ACCURATE, this diag will get botched, much like your HCI install
What are you even talking about? Can you show me where I said it doesn’t run cold? Where are you getting this from?

I’m not the one who installed my ****ing HCI. Honestly man what is your deal? This is what happens when people treat newcomers like **** and then wonder why the hobby is dying
 

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Honestly, it doesn’t keep running for long so I had to run around and disconnect it.

what does the above mean?

i get, it dont run long enough...............

if it runs cold, why is there a issue with unplugging it and seeing if rpm drops or stalls?

is this beyond your capability?
 

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What are you even talking about? Can you show me where I said it doesn’t run cold? Where are you getting this from?

I’m not the one who installed my *ing HCI. Honestly man what is your deal? This is what happens when people treat newcomers like * and then wonder why the hobby is dying
can you stop whining, and just stick to the diag?
 

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what does the above mean?

i get, it dont run long enough...............

if it runs cold, why is there a issue with unplugging it and seeing if rpm drops or stalls?

is this beyond your capability?
I think what he is saying is that it only runs for about 15 seconds so he doesnt have enough time to get out to the engine compartment and unplug it before it dies.
 

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then i direct to the poster's first post

runs fine, until at operating temp

does this car get to operating temp, instantly?
 

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The issue im having is as follows:

From cold, the car will start and idle just fine for approximately 3-5 minutes, and then it will just shut off. It will NOT stumble, search or sputter. It just shuts off. Once it’s got a little heat in the motor, it won’t run for more than 10-20 seconds before it will shut off on its own. But it will fire back up immediately every time.
poster gots 3-5 minutes........................

what is the freaking issue, or is the OP lying?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
what does the above mean?

i get, it dont run long enough...............

if it runs cold, why is there a issue with unplugging it and seeing if rpm drops or stalls?

is this beyond your capability?
I purposefully allowed it to get to a temperature where it had the issue before i tried unplugging it. Is that concept difficult for you to understand?
 

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HOLY mother of pearl

what am i dealing with here......................

I never said to get it to temp, there is a reason

ONE MORE TIME

stop trying to jump ahead, like you know something, follow the direction to a f&^&ing T

allow the engine to cool, SO IT CAN RUN FOR 3-5 MINUTES LIKE IN YOUR FREAKING FIRST POST!!

ONCE ITS RUNNING, WALK TO THE IAC, UNPLUG IT,

WHAT HAPPENS TO THE rpm?

IS THIS CLEAR?
 

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You literally have done nothing but talk **** and tell me to figure it out. You have not offered any advice beyond trying to poke holes in what I’m saying

STOP WHINING,

i already told you, you are gonna learn from this, I AINT GONNA spoon feed you, capiche?

you dont like it, i can go........

what say you?

emotions, or diagnosing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
HOLY mother of pearl

what am i dealing with here......................

I never said to get it to temp, there is a reason

ONE MORE TIME

stop trying to jump ahead, like you know something, follow the direction to a f&^&ing T

allow the engine to cool, SO IT CAN RUN FOR 3-5 MINUTES LIKE IN YOUR FREAKING FIRST POST!!

ONCE ITS RUNNING, WALK TO THE IAC, UNPLUG IT,

WHAT HAPPENS TO THE rpm?

IS THIS CLEAR?
Dont be mad that you didn’t specify. Why would it be unreasonable to test it in the condition where it actually has the issue?Aren’t base idle resets done with the engine warm?
 

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Y'all stop bickering - we as an audience want to know what the solution is.
 
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