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you can keep it running by keeping the AIR pedal open, correct?

kinda rules out spark or fuel or compression,,,,,,dont you think?????

by keeping the AIR pedal open, what do you think the engine is missing?
 

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if it doesn’t run

ITS missing something, that is not up for debate

AND NO, i am not going to spoon feed you, you are going to put your diagnostic hat on.

so, again, if it requires you to ADD AIR to keep it running

what is it missing?
 

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Sorry missed that you could keep it running with your foot on the gas. Mine would not run at all no matter what when the msd box went out.


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there is no gas pedal

i seem to think, the OP is mixing it up with a carb
 

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you will learn, dont worry!

no amount of begging or sob story, is gonna get ya spoon fed.

so dont waste valuable time on that.

if the IAC was the issue, how could it start and run cold? it needs more air and fuel cold.

what test can we do do prove it, when cold?
 

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good test, but does NOT mean bad IAC
 

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do the test, i said it was good, why are you even thinking maf or tps?

STAY THE COURSE! ONE THING at ONE TIME!

report what you find.

and stop!! with the excuses
 

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you started it, then unplugged IAC, and it continued to run without any rpm drop?

what do you mean, you tried to disconnect?
 

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when it was running and you unplugged it, the idle did NOT drop or stall engine?

this is very important to be very accurate, unless you have a scope, internet diag requires you to be extremely accurate.

i am ignoring all the other stuff you are doing, i dont diag like a chicken with its head cut off.
 

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So it doesn't run cold?

you said it did????

if your information is NOT ACCURATE, this diag will get botched, much like your HCI install
 

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Honestly, it doesn’t keep running for long so I had to run around and disconnect it.

what does the above mean?

i get, it dont run long enough...............

if it runs cold, why is there a issue with unplugging it and seeing if rpm drops or stalls?

is this beyond your capability?
 

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What are you even talking about? Can you show me where I said it doesn’t run cold? Where are you getting this from?

I’m not the one who installed my *ing HCI. Honestly man what is your deal? This is what happens when people treat newcomers like * and then wonder why the hobby is dying
can you stop whining, and just stick to the diag?
 

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then i direct to the poster's first post

runs fine, until at operating temp

does this car get to operating temp, instantly?
 

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The issue im having is as follows:

From cold, the car will start and idle just fine for approximately 3-5 minutes, and then it will just shut off. It will NOT stumble, search or sputter. It just shuts off. Once it’s got a little heat in the motor, it won’t run for more than 10-20 seconds before it will shut off on its own. But it will fire back up immediately every time.
poster gots 3-5 minutes........................

what is the freaking issue, or is the OP lying?
 

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HOLY mother of pearl

what am i dealing with here......................

I never said to get it to temp, there is a reason

ONE MORE TIME

stop trying to jump ahead, like you know something, follow the direction to a f&^&ing T

allow the engine to cool, SO IT CAN RUN FOR 3-5 MINUTES LIKE IN YOUR FREAKING FIRST POST!!

ONCE ITS RUNNING, WALK TO THE IAC, UNPLUG IT,

WHAT HAPPENS TO THE rpm?

IS THIS CLEAR?
 

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You literally have done nothing but talk **** and tell me to figure it out. You have not offered any advice beyond trying to poke holes in what I’m saying

STOP WHINING,

i already told you, you are gonna learn from this, I AINT GONNA spoon feed you, capiche?

you dont like it, i can go........

what say you?

emotions, or diagnosing?
 

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honestly? i am gonna ask you to unplug the IAC when the engine doesn’t run??????????
 

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there is NO dead end, unless you want to give up and take it to a diagnostic based shop?

Your IAC works, the wiring is good, and the ecm has control

There is NO base idle reset with a HCI change, base idle reset is for stock engine airflow

After a HCI, depending on cam, will open the throttle stop, so that idle is no longer controlled by the ecm, like a carb

people that do this dont know how the ecm controls idle speed or dont want to do it correctly, recalibration is the only way

are you running the stock throttle body?

the ecm has adaptive learning, this goes for fuel, and idle speed control, the more starts, the more driving, adaptive will start adapting to achieve target conditions in the calibration

since you cannot meet the calibration conditions, things get worse

so now that we have proven the IAC works,

its time to start at the beginning, check for codes.
 

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closed throttle airflow, must equal what is inputted in the ecm for the stock throttle body

0.55lb/min
 

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contrary to most will say, unless you can match the airflow of the stock TB and keep long term IAC trims within spec

a throttle body increase in size, needs a tune/recalibration

for the code reader

amazon

or search youtube for the paperclip trick
 

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Maybe I missed it, after you pulled the IAC when cold and it was still idling around 500rpm, did you let it run until it shut off (keeping IAC disconnected)?

When cold, as stated earlier, the engine needs more air (and fuel) than at operating temp. If it's idling cold with IAC disconnected, it should continue to idle when warm, so it wouldn't be an air issue.


read first post
 
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