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As already stated, send the ecu to get repaired IF IT'S DETERMINED THE ECU NEEDS REPAIR. Don't just throw parts at it. How did you adjust the tps voltage? Have you tried doing a base idle reset?
 
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
You can't buy foxbody Mustang V8 mass air ECU's at AutoZone. Haven't been able to buy them there for a long time. Even Rockauto is still out of stock on the Cardone remanufactured units. $120 to send it in to ECU Exchange and takes about a week to a week and a half depending on shipping if and when you are ready. They are in Georgia now. Saw some Blue Streak ECU's (BSE) but I wouldn't trust them. Anybody use one of those?
Okay guess I’ll be sending it to ecu exchange
 

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Reoccurring TPS and the symptoms point toward the 10 pin (salt and pepper) connectors. Not sure when you changed the hoses but if the stalling started after that, most likely disturbed the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Reoccurring TPS and the symptoms point toward the 10 pin (salt and pepper) connectors. Not sure when you changed the hoses but if the stalling started after that, most likely disturbed the connection.
The stalling was before I re did the hoses I replaced them in hopes it would help fix it and I recently just took them apart and split all of the pins in the salt and pepper shakers
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
As already stated, send the ecu to get repaired IF IT'S DETERMINED THE ECU NEEDS REPAIR. Don't just throw parts at it. How did you adjust the tps voltage? Have you tried doing a base idle reset?
For a full base idle reset what exactly are the steps and If I could I’d like to possibly FaceTime or text someone personally to help me figure everything out
 

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Base idle reset procedure:

Get the car to operating temp,
With the car running,
pull the timing spout
Unplug the idle air control valve
Adjust the throttle stop screw so the car idles as low as possible. With a stock cam this is usually around 550-575 rpm.

If the car dies when you unplug the IAC, open the throttle by turning the screw in 1/2 turn and try again. keep doing this until it will idle with the IAC unplugged then make your adjustments.

Once you have the car idling as low as possible, turn the car off, plug everything back in, unplug the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU, then test it out. Since you were throwing tps codes it would probably be a good idea to see where the voltage is after adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Okay will t
Base idle reset procedure:

Get the car to operating temp,
With the car running,
pull the timing spout
Unplug the idle air control valve
Adjust the throttle stop screw so the car idles as low as possible. With a stock cam this is usually around 550-575 rpm.

If the car dies when you unplug the IAC, open the throttle by turning the screw in 1/2 turn and try again. keep doing this until it will idle with the IAC unplugged then make your adjustments.

Once you have the car idling as low as possible, turn the car off, plug everything back in, unplug the battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECU, then test it out. Since you were throwing tps codes it would probably be a good idea to see where the voltage is after adjustment.
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Okay I will try this
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Honestly, my first thought was to check the ECU as well. Not being able to dump codes could be an indicator that there is a fault within the ECU. Either capacitors or a burned pin 46 trace.

Can you inspect the ECU? Can you remove the cover and look at the three capacitors and see if they have the typical green corrosion forming where they meet the board?

Also, using a multimeter, check for continuity from pin 46 to pin 40 and pin 60. You should have a connection there.
I’ve got the ecu out I’m just going to send it to ecu exchange and have them test it and take a look at it just in case
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Just checked their post on eBay they raised the price to $139 to go through the ECU. But still a good deal considering limited options these days.
Okay yeah I just looked at their website if nothing is wrong with it they give you half your money back if they can’t fix it they give you a full refund minus a $10 return fee
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Just checked their post on eBay they raised the price to $139 to go through the ECU. But still a good deal considering limited options these days.
Just checked their post on eBay they raised the price to $139 to go through the ECU. But still a good deal considering limited options these days.
So they finished the repair on my ecu and the fuel relay circuit wasn’t functioning and they fixed it and something else was wrong with the ecu and they fixed it as well and it is on the way back I will update you when it is back in the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I've never had to take the blower motor out to get the ECU out I'm not sure what happened there. Battery charged? Good voltage?
The battery was dead but today I put a new battery in started the car and took it on a drive with the new ecu and the same problem persists won’t run hot and has problems idling and also the throttle kept hanging at about 2k and when I was cruising in 5th gear I didn’t even have to hit the gas it was just on throttle by itself for a little bit then eventually stopped very weird I think possibly my tps is bad even though it’s new or maybe o2 sensors but I figure it would throw a code for that
 

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Okay back to the drawing board of diagnosing and start from Square One. Repeat everything that you've done from the beginning of these issues. I had one ECU out of the 25 of them I've had repaired by ECUexchange over the past decade that still had existing problems and still had intermittent problems after being repaired. Sent it back to them. They thought they had it fixed again. Still had problems for the second time through. So ECU exchange ended up buying that ECU from us. And we bought another used one. Only time that ever happened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Okay back to the drawing board of diagnosing and start from Square One. Repeat everything that you've done from the beginning of these issues. I had one ECU out of the 25 of them I've had repaired by ECUexchange over the past decade that still had existing problems and still had intermittent problems after being repaired. Sent it back to them. They thought they had it fixed again. Still had problems for the second time through. So ECU exchange ended up buying that ECU from us. And we bought another used one. Only time that ever happened.
I’m pretty sure it’s not the ecu and i checked the codes agyer starting it back up and 63,67,85 is what came ip
 

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Check the idle air control connector on the factory wiring harness. Mine would loosen up when it got hot under the hood and slide out of the IAC solenoid. So the IAC wasn't doing anything.

I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the TB slightly open or it would stall. A temporary fix was a tight zip tie around the connector, until my replacement connector arrived.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Check the idle air control connector on the factory wiring harness. Mine would loosen up when it got hot under the hood and slide out of the IAC solenoid. So the IAC wasn't doing anything.

I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the TB slightly open or it would stall. A temporary fix was a tight zip tie around the connector, until my replacement connector arrived.
Okay I’m gonna go check real quick and see if it’s loose because I do know that the clip for the connector isn’t on there but I haven’t had any issues with it sliding out before but give me one sec and I’ll reply back on what I found
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Check the idle air control connector on the factory wiring harness. Mine would loosen up when it got hot under the hood and slide out of the IAC solenoid. So the IAC wasn't doing anything.

I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the TB slightly open or it would stall. A temporary fix was a tight zip tie around the connector, until my replacement connector arrived.
Well I’ll be dammed I just looked under the hood and sure enough the idle air control plug was loose and I pushed it back in def ordering a new one I’m going to check on this more often but I do believe that might be it
 

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If the idle is hanging, it sounds to me like some sort of vacuum leak. I may have missed it, have you done a smoke test? Im helping a friend build a 331 and he pulled his old motor apart a couple weeks ago. The car never ran right and I wanted him to do a smoke test but he never got around to it. After pulling the upper intake manifold, we found the intake gaskets were cracked/ripped on most of the runners. The car had a serious vacuum leak all the time which explains the weird way it ran. Ive never seen an intake gasket ripped/cracked across all cylinders before but it just goes to show you. Issues can be hiding where you cant see them.

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