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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Why do you need to take the heads off? That intake could probably be welded if you have a good machinist closeby. Fans are available and so are clutches so you might as well swap them out.

As far as temp goes, don’t assume how hot it’s running. Verify temps with a laser thermometer.
Yeah Im almost 100% gonna swap the fan and clutch for a newer one that is in better condition. Also sorry I dont know what was going through my head but I thought that you had to unbolt the heads to take off the intake but its the other way around. I was also thinking of getting it welded but I asked a few people over the phone and they said that cast-iron intakes cant be welded. If it can be welded though then I would absolutely do that instead of spending $400 on a original 5.0 intake for a foxbody.

Also probably a stupid question but I havent looked into laser thermometers before. Are there laser thermometers that are able to read the temp of the engine and have it read on the gauge? I know what kind of laser therm. you are talking about but I am wondering if there is some sort of product that basically replaces the normal temp sensor with a laser one
 

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Yeah Im almost 100% gonna swap the fan and clutch for a newer one that is in better condition. Also sorry I dont know what was going through my head but I thought that you had to unbolt the heads to take off the intake but its the other way around. I was also thinking of getting it welded but I asked a few people over the phone and they said that cast-iron intakes cant be welded. If it can be welded though then I would absolutely do that instead of spending $400 on a original 5.0 intake for a foxbody.

Also probably a stupid question but I havent looked into laser thermometers before. Are there laser thermometers that are able to read the temp of the engine and have it read on the gauge? I know what kind of laser therm. you are talking about but I am wondering if there is some sort of product that basically replaces the normal temp sensor with a laser one
It’s all good I was just curious why you were going to touch the heads. And the intake is aluminum not iron. I know Tmoss can weld intakes and I’m sure a local machine shop that can weld aluminum can weld it. Otherwise they’re pretty cheap online. The same lower intake was used by many different models.

I’m not sure about the temp sensor. I know in the sn95 world you can make the temp gauge functional, but I’m not as versed in foxes like a lot of other guys here. An auxillary temp gauge from a company like bosch is your easiest route to monitor temps on the fly.
 

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The stock idiot gauges are okay as long as you know where the normal range is for them. Typically the coolant should run near the middle of the gauge, slightly above that is common and normal. The upper line of that range is where you should worry, that's likely in the 250* or more. Add Water Weter or another more expensive additive, those that improve heat transfer. The running temperature will drop a little with those.

If the intake has to come off, I wouldn't put an HO intake back on. Find an Explorer intake(GT40) from a 1996-2001 302, those are a big improvement over the prior intakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
The stock idiot gauges are okay as long as you know where the normal range is for them. Typically the coolant should run near the middle of the gauge, slightly above that is common and normal. The upper line of that range is where you should worry, that's likely in the 250* or more. Add Water Weter or another more expensive additive, those that improve heat transfer. The running temperature will drop a little with those.

If the intake has to come off, I wouldn't put an HO intake back on. Find an Explorer intake(GT40) from a 1996-2001 302, those are a big improvement over the prior intakes.
Sorry for my absence, I had some stuff come up.

Whenever I start the car and let it idle and warm up, letting it idle for 1-2 hours, the temp only reaches the middle of the gauge (I start the car and warm it up every weekend). It only goes above that whenever it is in overdrive, and it reaches near the top of the gauge within 10 minutes in od. In drive it stays at around the center, usually around 1 notch above, way better than overdrive's ~4 notches above. The whole situation is very strange and as I have been using drive only, it has never overheated. The whole situation is wierd. I suspect that overdrive overheats because it is at around 3,500 rpm at all times, but I am still puzzled by this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Also, another thing I have noticed is that (in drive only) if you punch it in 2nd at low speeds, it stays in 2nd for like 1.5 seconds before downshifting and really starting to pickup speeds. The downshift is really sluggish from 2-1, but 3-2 is just fine. And then this problem is only present in drive and not overdrive...

'Boutta put this AOD in the scrap yard and replace it with a T-5. If only it didn't have sentimental value...
 

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Sorry for my absence, I had some stuff come up.

Whenever I start the car and let it idle and warm up, letting it idle for 1-2 hours, the temp only reaches the middle of the gauge (I start the car and warm it up every weekend). It only goes above that whenever it is in overdrive, and it reaches near the top of the gauge within 10 minutes in od. In drive it stays at around the center, usually around 1 notch above, way better than overdrive's ~4 notches above. The whole situation is very strange and as I have been using drive only, it has never overheated. The whole situation is wierd. I suspect that overdrive overheats because it is at around 3,500 rpm at all times, but I am still puzzled by this.
That 3500rpm is way too high to be cruising at, that is not in overdrive(4th gear). The rpm at 70mph should be around 2000rpm cruising, with 3.27 rear gears and stock tire sizes.

Why would you let it idle for 1-2 hours?

The AOD is a reliable transmission when it's in good shape, and not abused or neglected. Yours is not functioning properly from what has been described. The valve body is a likely cause, as also possible the modulator. The clutches still might be okay, but as you drive it with it malfunctioning, that chance is dropping very fast. The shifts should not be slipping, or really slow, or really soft, firm shifts are the best, they result in less slipping of the clutches. Hard throttle is bad for the shifts, if the shift is slipping, don't be doing it at WOT or heavy throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
That 3500rpm is way too high to be cruising at, that is not in overdrive(4th gear). The rpm at 70mph should be around 2000rpm cruising, with 3.27 rear gears and stock tire sizes.

Why would you let it idle for 1-2 hours?

The AOD is a reliable transmission when it's in good shape, and not abused or neglected. Yours is not functioning properly from what has been described. The valve body is a likely cause, as also possible the modulator. The clutches still might be okay, but as you drive it with it malfunctioning, that chance is dropping very fast. The shifts should not be slipping, or really slow, or really soft, firm shifts are the best, they result in less slipping of the clutches. Hard throttle is bad for the shifts, if the shift is slipping, don't be doing it at WOT or heavy throttle.
So today was what will most likely be the last time I take it out until next summer. Its starting to get to 50-60 degrees around where I live so I think the time for the convertible is over :(

Whenever I took it out today I made sure to pay attention to what rpm it cruises at at 70 mph. If I want to maintain 70, I have to stay at nearly 4k-5k in both drive and overdrive, and this seems to be in second. When I was trying to get it into third, it just kept revving up and would just cruise at 5k instead of shifting. I could almost feel the trans try to shift at 3.5k rpm but it just stayed in 2nd. I only got it into what I believe is third by flooring it for a couple seconds then letting off, other than that it would not go. In a couple weeks I am probably going to pull it into the garage, drop the trans pan to do a fluid change and to clean the valve body.

Whenever driving today, both me and my 3 passengers smelled a very strong burning smell. I have smelled it faintly in the past but it was really bad then, like overwhelmingly bad. The temp and oil pressure were great, the gauge was right in the center for the temp and i was getting about 45 psi oil pressure at idle. The smell was only present while stopped, also. Whenever I parked and looked over the car, there were no coolant or fluid leaks and the smell wasnt even coming from the front of the engine, but from the trans dipstick. I dont know what that could possibly mean. I am starting to believe that the trans is on its last limb and that I will lose/fully lose 3rd soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
That 3500rpm is way too high to be cruising at, that is not in overdrive(4th gear). The rpm at 70mph should be around 2000rpm cruising, with 3.27 rear gears and stock tire sizes.

Why would you let it idle for 1-2 hours?

The AOD is a reliable transmission when it's in good shape, and not abused or neglected. Yours is not functioning properly from what has been described. The valve body is a likely cause, as also possible the modulator. The clutches still might be okay, but as you drive it with it malfunctioning, that chance is dropping very fast. The shifts should not be slipping, or really slow, or really soft, firm shifts are the best, they result in less slipping of the clutches. Hard throttle is bad for the shifts, if the shift is slipping, don't be doing it at WOT or heavy throttle.
I forgot to mention that the reason that I let it idle for about an hour is because I like to get the fluids circulated and get it warmed up since I am not driving it or anything. I know it might be a little excessive but I just really dont like my old cars sitting, especially my fox.

Another thing is that the shift from 1-2 is very firm. If I am cruising at low speeds I can feel it shift and the shift is very strong and it feels great. 2-3 though feels like it keeps trying to engage but it wont/cant until I sort of force it to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
There is also another thing that I have noticed. When driving, if I let off the gas completely then the rpm stays at around 1,500, but as soon as I touch the pedal, it will climb up to around 3,750 before it feels like it is maintaining speed. Not accelerating but you can just feel the powertrain keeping a steady pace. It has to rev up to nearly 5,000 before it falls off the end of the power curve and then it wont shift into 3rd at that point. Is this normal?

I have read a lot about the stock tachs being over 1k off at high rpm so I may test mine and see if it is correct, because the tach shows very high rpm for what it feels the engine is at. If I had to guess then I would say that it feels like 4,500 is actually about 3,250. It could be correct and I could be wrong, but this is just a guess.
 

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I think it's safe to say that the AOD is done, time to stop driving it and get it rebuilt. Driving anymore will create excess heat and begin to damage the internal hard parts which generally do no need replacing. So stop driving it at all, letting it idle won't hurt it but any driving to 2nd gear speeds will be adding to the rebuild costs. A rebuild kit and torque converter is around $400-$500 depending on current prices and your sources.

If they have to replace drums and other hard parts inside, add another $400+ and expect future failures before a normal service life. So stop driving it now, the costs will be much worse if you keep doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I think it's safe to say that the AOD is done, time to stop driving it and get it rebuilt. Driving anymore will create excess heat and begin to damage the internal hard parts which generally do no need replacing. So stop driving it at all, letting it idle won't hurt it but any driving to 2nd gear speeds will be adding to the rebuild costs. A rebuild kit and torque converter is around $400-$500 depending on current prices and your sources.

If they have to replace drums and other hard parts inside, add another $400+ and expect future failures before a normal service life. So stop driving it now, the costs will be much worse if you keep doing it.
Well it is the end of what I like to call "Convertible Season" and so it is just too cold. The only time I will drive it will be whenever I need to just move it in order to move cars around. I will probably clean the vb and if the problems continue then I will fully rebuild it. I have the time since it wont be driven for almost a full year haha. Kinda sucks to see the tranny trying to hold on but its just getting destroyed. It was an obedient tranny while it lasted, and after the rebuild, it will probably continue to be.

Thank you so much for all of your help Don. You have been very helpful to me. I appreciate your input and advice, even if it did end in the resolution that I was fearful for. I guess on the upside I get to rebuild my first AOD 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Okay I think I have found my issue. So the weather warranted taking it out again so this time I put about 1/4 inch of pressure on the cable and it shifts at around 2500-3000 now. 1-2 and 2-3 are perfect, hard shifts but I don't know whether or not I have overdrive yet. I'll probably take it out again today and see.
 
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