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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched, but I can't find any info. Do they exist for use with 00R Brembos and if they do where can I find a set?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's a good source. Worse case you have to get a custom rotor hat for the Mustang designed for a popular replacement 13x1.25 disk. These brembos should be able to take a thicker rotor, but you would have to use the Dodge Viper brake pads. 13x1.25 rotors are standard gear for the Vipers and they also use this same caliper. Thanks, Tim.
 

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It's possible that DBA makes them. I have a set of their 2-piece DBA 5000s for my Subaru. The stock rotors are 24mm thick, and the DBAs are a full inch (25.4mm) thick - basically, as fat as you can go with the stock calipers and pads.

I don't know anyone that has the 5000s for the Mustang, but they do make them for the Cobra. Maybe call these guys and see if they can measure a set for you?
 

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Baer has assembled several sets for us. We use them with the PBR C5 calipers. They are two piece, like the ones that come in the GT-Plus front Mustang kits. I can get them for you if interested.
 

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Baer has a part number now for the 1.25 rotors in the system.
Racer Net is $495.00. This is one pair of 2pc rotors, 13”x1.250”. The hats are 6061-t6 and the hardware is NAS stainless steel. Pricing is for plain rotor surface.

Add the following for each option below… All pricing are for a pair -
Slot only, , Racer = $45.00
Slot, Zinc, , Racer = $55.00
Slot, drill and zinc, Racer = $60.00
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info guys. Since rotors are a consumable item, one of the keys for me in exploring this option is improving on cost vs maintenance. I am still learning the Mustang's needs for open track, but having tracked a Corvette I have experienced how quick the rotors can go, and every rotor will eventually crack. I am glad that a thicker rotor is available though and will consider my need for them. Thanks.
 

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Darius: Are you running the 1.10" rotors, or the 1.25" ones? Wondering which pads you're using if you're running the thicker rotors... Also, do you think a set of the coleman rotors lasts any longer than the stock cobra ones from NAPA, etc? Wondering what the difference is in driveability, longevity, etc... I know the aluminum hats keeps some heat out of the hubs, but is that the only benefit? Thanks, ed
 

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I run DTC-60 and DTC-70's. VERY impressed with the braking and longevity. I have tried many pads, and these by far are my favorite.
I got them from Jay Andrew - [email protected]

The rotors are 1.1", and am STILL on the same set from 2005 (will replace this winter).

The hats are cooler(? dont know, no way to measure), but they are about 4# lighter than stock rotors. Dont really care about cooling, especially with my new cooling ducts (possibly even TOO cool for brake pads temps... :lol:






 

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Appreciate the pics and info D... My understanding is the aluminum hats transfer less heat to the hub and bearings, which makes them last longer. I've been contemplating going to the TCE setup (which you can now buy direct from TCE for $550 I think - hats and rotors). I just swapped my rotors, installed a spare set of Brembo's; the others lasted about 6-7 track events running HPDE2 and 3. I also run DTC70 pads up front, DTC60's in the rear, also from Jay. I too love the pads. I'm down to the last 3/16" or so of pad on the fronts, the rears are lasting a bit longer. I think the next time I need rotors I may get the TCE setup... unless something else breaks and I need to spend the $$ elsewhere... :shakehead
 

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will the C5 corvette caliper bolt right upto the SN945 spindle or are there mods required, if so, what are they?

besides being able to run a thicker rotor with the TCE setup is there any other advantage to the C5 caliper?

paul
 

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You need the Baer SN95 spindle specific caliper brackets to make the C5 calipers work. In testing the C5 caliper would out brake the 2000R Brembo kit. The nice thing about the C5 caliper is pad selection. The 731 pad is can be had at most parts stores. I think the Baer pricing is cheaper than TCE too on the rotors & comes with NAS hardware standard.
 

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You need the Baer SN95 spindle specific caliper brackets to make the C5 calipers work. In testing the C5 caliper would out brake the 2000R Brembo kit. The nice thing about the C5 caliper is pad selection. The 731 pad is can be had at most parts stores. I think the Baer pricing is cheaper than TCE too on the rotors & comes with NAS hardware standard.
thanks MTNMAN

can you PM me some prices?
 

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The Baer GT & GT-Plus systems using the C5(PBR pin-drive) calipers don't get much attention due to peoples desire for 4 & 6 piston calipers. All of the cars we've used these on have worked great. Plus they tend to fit with more wheels then the bigger calipers.

Baer Complete Systems | GT and GT-PLUS GT
The Baer Claw® GT brake system is designed primarily for late-model Mustangs and the Subaru WRX (excluding the STi). The large 2-Piston PBR pin-driven calipers provide increased pad volume for a measurable increase in performance. Rotors are 1-Piece and come in 12.75" to 13" diameters, depending on the application. Cross-drilled, slotted and zinc-coated surfaces are standard; a smooth, plain rotor is available upon request (optional).

Note: 17" or larger wheels are required. Check wheel fitment with Baer fit check templates.


GT-PLUS

The Baer Claw® GT-PLUS covers a wide range of larger, heavier cars, trucks and SUVs and is a cost-effective alternative the 6-Piston EXTREME-PLUS system. Featuring large 2-Piston PBR pin-driven calipers and a greater pad volume, performance of these vehicles is greatly enhanced. Rotors are 2-Piece and come in 12.75" to 14" diameters, depending on the application. This design incorporates an aluminum hat, reducing overall weight. It also allows for differential expansion of the rotor plates, reducing the "bell effect," lowering thermal transfer to the hub, and ultimately prolonging bearing life.

Note: 17" or larger wheels are required. Check wheel fitment with Baer fit check templates.
 

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Aluminum conducts heat much better than cast iron and steel, so a rotor setup with an aluminum hat will transfer more heat to the hub than a one piece rotor, but......

This assumes that the hat is bolted to the rotor, so there is a low thermal resistance between the two pieces and therefore good heat flow to the hub.

One of the major advantages of a two piece rotor is that it can reduce the stress in the rotor quite a bit if designed properly. There are two ways to do this. Both of them are different methods that allow the rotor to expand and contract on both sides evenly.

One is to use very deep aluminum hats. This is the technique that Wilwood tends to use a lot. The hat may be solidly bolted to the rotor in this case, but the hat is deep, so it can flex easily as the aluminum is loaded in bending, especially at the elevated temperatures that a brake system operates at. This allows the rotor to expand and contract the same amount on both sides of it.

Two is floating the rotor from the hat. There are several ways to do this, but in all of them, the hat is not rigidly bolted to the rotor. The joint is designed to be able to transmit torque rigidly. A common technique is to use shoulder bolts between the rotor and hat. This transmits the torque, but allows the rotor to move side to side a little bit and stops a lot of heat transfer between the parts.
 

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I am replacing the Coleman rotors and going to re-use the hats.
Is that okay? Do these TCE hats have a "life" to them...?

Can I re-use the NAS bolts that have been on there?
 

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I am replacing the Coleman rotors and going to re-use the hats.
Is that okay? Do these TCE hats have a "life" to them...?

Can I re-use the NAS bolts that have been on there?

There is no exact answer to that question. The hats however barring any obvious damages or such, should last for many years and for many rotor ring renewals. No reason for replacing it so long as the holes are not damaged or elongated. These hats are also designed to allow you to remove a damaged or seized bolt by simply grinding off the bolt head. On Wilwood factory hats that are threaded this is not an option and will require some fancy work or replacing if the bolt breaks off.

NAS hardware should be fine for a second use. That being said...it's common practice to replace any rotor hat bolt/nut when the ring is renewed for good measure. *Part of the reason most TCE hats and rotors use a basic socket head cap screw rather than the NAS bolts- cost.
 

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Subscribed for reference to Todd(TCE).
 
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