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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is there a way to use an oem clutch cable from a ‘96-‘04 in a ‘94/‘95 with the stock quadrant? The ‘94/‘95 cable is 62.5” and the ‘96 is 70’.5” I do believe.
 

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You might be able to with a firewall adjuster.
Maximum Motorsports sells an OEM cable kit for 82-04, and its 69” long.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You might be able to with a firewall adjuster.
Maximum Motorsports sells an OEM cable kit for 82-04, and its 69” long.
Yeah, I was looking at their cable and quadrant kit. I need a new cable their isn’t a “good” oem style cable made for a ‘94/‘95. Allegedly the part store cables are terrible, as in they break. But part store cable or adjustable kit type stuff are the only options.
I’m a little intimidated by the adjustable stuff. The quadrant install looks like a pain as well as routing the long cable. I’m leery about getting it adjusted just right so not to burn up the clutch.
What’s the way to go for the ‘94/‘95 guy who needs a new cable? A $40 “oem style” replacement ATP cable, or the $180 Max Motor kit? How hard is it to install? There’s a million adjustable cables and only a couple house brand type cables. It’d be nice if I could just run a new cable instead of reinventing the wheel with the use of a kit. If I don’t get the direct replacement 62.25” cable, what’s the second easiest option? Here’s the ATP. The one review says he uses it with a King Cobra clutch and it worked well. Not that it matters I don’t think, but I have a center force dual friction.
 

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Did your OEM cable break?

I have an adjustable on my car at the moment, but it’s been crap from day 1. i let my car sit for a bit while I did heads & cam, and the cable became unbearable. Took it off and lubed it and it’s acceptable now, better than when it was brand new.

If your cable is binding, and not broken, try lube.

I have one of the longer OEM cables, but it wouldn’t fit directly without taking up some of the slack at the firewall. I didn’t have a firewall adjuster though. I may have needed a different quadrant to make it work as well, I don’t know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did your OEM cable break?

I have an adjustable on my car at the moment, but it’s been crap from day 1. i let my car sit for a bit while I did heads & cam, and the cable became unbearable. Took it off and lubed it and it’s acceptable now, better than when it was brand new.

If your cable is binding, and not broken, try lube.

I have one of the longer OEM cables, but it wouldn’t fit directly without taking up some of the slack at the firewall. I didn’t have a firewall adjuster though. I may have needed a different quadrant to make it work as well, I don’t know.
No it didn’t break yet. The other day it was stuck in neutral idling. When I turned the motor off it shifted freely. I can also hear a rattling under the car. The clutch & throw out bearing are new. It’s shifter again but I don’t know for how long. I think the cable has stretched.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was able to “fix it” temporarily by taking up slack at the quadrant with zip ties. With two zip ties it’s great. The car starts to move with the pedal closer to the floor and it’s much smother going in and out. The shifter is also much smoother and it goes in gear much easier. It’s doesnt have as notchy a sound (or feel) as it used to either. I tried three zip ties to take out even more slack, but three was too tight and made it difficult to get it in gear.
The quadrant didn’t look like it had any broken teeth. I ratcheted it back while pushing up on the clutch pedal to see if I could get to “bite” and rest at a different position to try and take up slack. But I think it just came back to rest at the same place as before.
What do y’all think, bad cable? Bad quadrant? Both? I guess at this point one would just replace both? Is the MM kit really worth all that coin? I saw the cotter pins that hold the quadrant in place on the pegs. Is that all that’s holding it on there? It seemed like there was some play in part that the pegs were on.
 

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No it didn’t break yet. The other day it was stuck in neutral idling. When I turned the motor off it shifted freely. I can also hear a rattling under the car. The clutch & throw out bearing are new. It’s shifter again but I don’t know for how long. I think the cable has stretched.

the new clutch is your problem, not the cable

its aftermarket right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
the new clutch is your problem, not the cable

its aftermarket right?
My new aftermarket centeforce clutch? Why do you suspect that? When I say “new” it’s probably a year old but it hasn’t been acting up until a few weeks ago. It hasn’t been slipping, no burning smell.
Being that improved with the cable tightened doesn’t point towards a loose cable? Also, it recently starting making a rattling noise at the clutch fork one. No more noise once the cable was tightened. Could be the clutch. Or it could be someone speculating the worst? I don’t think you’d think it was the clutch in person.
Could be the clutch though. What aspect of the clutch would you address then?
Looks like the cable has been rubbing.
 

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Most aftermarket clutches have a different stack height from stock, this can mess with the geometry with fork and effective throw of the bearing

the stock adjusting system works with the proper lengths, the clutch fingers height must push on the TOB to take up the slack in the cable and have preload on the TOB bearing

If the clutch was working for a year, it is possible the cable stretched, but unlikely.

I would look to make sure the ends of the cable's housing, at firewall and bellhousing are not squished or or slipping through, this would make the effective cable length longer.

But before i would call the cable I would make sure the teeth on the quad pawl and spring stop are NOT stripped, if they are that will be the problem

the plastic teeth are not meant to handle heavier clutches and will strip.

take some pics of the teeth, pull up on the clutch pedal an look at how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I looked at the quadrant when I was under there and I didn’t see any worn teeth, but it’s hard to tell from under there. I pulled up on the pedal to try and take up some slack. I don’t think it did though. I also ratcheted back to try and get it to bite on a different spot but I think it went back to its original resting position.
Something made the cable looser than it once was though because I had a rattle under the car where I didn’t previously. Now that it’s tightened with zip ties it’s quiet and it shifts great. This probably isn’t the best fix, but could I use a firewall adjuster to do the same thing the zip ties are doing? Will a stock cable and quadrant work with a firewall adjuster? Seems like it should since max motorsports cable is a modified stock one.
 

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lifting up on the pedal ADDS MORE SLACK

that is how it works, as the clutch wears, you NEED MORE slack

your issue is the complete OPPOSITE. you have too much slack

try this

look at how works, lift the clutch pedal to disengage the arm, at the same time, pull the quad to take up the slack as much as possible, then release clutch pedal


step on the pedal, do you hear the teeth jump, is the pedal tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
lifting up on the pedal ADDS MORE SLACK

that is how it works, as the clutch wears, you NEED MORE slack

your issue is the complete OPPOSITE. you have too much slack

try this

look at how works, lift the clutch pedal to disengage the arm, at the same time, pull the quad to take up the slack as much as possible, then release clutch pedal


step on the pedal, do you hear the teeth jump, is the pedal tight?
I did that as well. I lifted it and ratcheted it back (so the line was tighter) I didn’t hear any clicks though and it felt the same. Bad quadrant maybe?
If it’s just a bad quadrant is worth the money and hassle to go with MM’s $180 universal kit? The cable is longer so the routing will be different.
 

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Are you sure that the clutch fork is still on the pivot ball?
 

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I did that as well. I lifted it and ratcheted it back (so the line was tighter) I didn’t hear any clicks though and it felt the same. Bad quadrant maybe?
If it’s just a bad quadrant is worth the money and hassle to go with MM’s $180 universal kit? The cable is longer so the routing will be different.

you should be able to get enough tension to disengage

if it stripped it will not hold, is it stripped?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
you should be able to get enough tension to disengage

if it stripped it will not hold, is it stripped?
I’m pretty certain it’s the cable. But at this point I guess I’ll replace the quadrant too since I think that’s the only way to run a non parts store cable. No oem cables made anymore for a ‘94/‘95.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if the cable stretched, you will be able to adjust the quad as said

do what you want its your money
The cable is starting to fray. Metal shavings are coming off where it enters the cabin. You’d let that ride? Not me.
 

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THEN its rubbing something most likely

if that is the case, then cable needs replacing, however now you enter cable quality land, better chose the well, not all cables are equal.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
THEN its rubbing something most likely

if that is the case, then cable needs replacing, however now you enter cable quality land, better chose the well, not all cables are equal.
I know it, that’s where the rock and a hard place comes in. There’s no “good” oem replacement cable made for a ‘94/‘95 but there’s tons of adjustable ones and quadrant kits. I wish there was, so I didn’t have to go “custom.” The maximum motor sports “kit” is a good $80 or so more than the rest. But it comes with an “oem” cable for a ‘96-‘04 which is supposed to be the way to go. It’s longer than a stock ‘95 cable by about 6-7 inches I think.
Is that the way to go? Max motor’s $180 vs everyone else’s $100 kits?
 
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