The Corral

MAF Re-Location Kit
by Mike Pompe

After recently purchasing a Vortech supercharger system, one of the first additions I wanted to add was a MAF relocation kit. Cooler air equals more power and under the hood of a blown 5.0 is no cool place to be. After pricing the kits available from various manufacturers, I decided to attempt to build a kit of my own. I formulated the idea, and headed down to my local hardware store and started shopping.

What I came up with is a very effective, economical kit that places the MAF inside the inner fender, yet is still easily accessible and protected from the elements. I have about $12.00 in materials invested in the kit. It is also important to note that my car is a 1992 model, yet while I have little experience with the 94 and later models, I believe this kit could easily be adapted to the newer cars.

PREPARATION

I will explain the parts list, and what to do with them. This installation assumes you have a K&N cone filter, a normal blower setup, with the flexible blower inlet that normally attaches to the MAF, and mounts against the side of the fenderwell (i.e. stock Vortech, Powerdyne, etc.).

Common hardware store PVC pipe with a 90 degree elbow - You'll need two pieces. On each piece, one end should be male, the other end female. If you can find one PVC elbow with a male end on each end, buy one piece like that, and another with a male/female end combination. I think the diameter is like 3 or 4". The flexible tubing from the blower fits over it perfectly, so pay attention to sizing. If all you can find are the pieces with one female end and one male end, you'll have to cut the female end off of one of them first to allow for connecting. This will make sense later.

6 inch long piece of rubber connecting hose - This hose will have a clamp on each end and should be close to the same diameter as the PVC elbows. They are found in the plumbing section of your hardware store near the PVC fittings. This will connect the final male end of the PVC to the MAF. I believe that it is designed to connect PVC, so it should be obvious in the store.

Small bottle of PVC cement

The blower's original short rubber hose - This piece is the piece that goes on the end of the MAF. Leave it where it is.

Three colors of 12 Gauge Wire - for extending the MAF harness.

Wire Cutters/Strippers - for cutting and stripping the MAF harness.

Shrink Wrap Tubing - for weather proofing the MAF extension.

Soldering Iron - for soldering the MAF extension.

1" x 3/8" Bolt - for MAF bracket mounting.

3/8" Nut and Washter

ASSEMBLY

This step is rather awkward, but it is not too difficult. It is easier to have a buddy help hold while you assemble.

1. Disconnect the MAF, MAF harness, MAF inlet and exit tubes, and the MAF mounting bracket. Set these pieces aside. I had to relocate the FMU closer to the radiator support, as the blower inlet tubing must pass through the round hole in the fender.

2. Take the PVC elbow with the male/female ends on it, and place the male end through the round fender opening. The male end should protrude into the engine compartment. (It will want to fall out at this point, so a friend to hold it is helpful.) We will call this piece E1. Connect your flexible blower inlet tubing to the male end of E1 that is now sticking out into the engine compartment. Tighten hose clamp. Now it will stay on it's own. You are trial fitting the pieces at this point.

3.The second PVC elbow will be called E2. From inside the fender well attach the male end (or the sawed off female end) of E2 to E1's female end. Adjust the fit as necessary by swiveling pipes. You want the elbows, and eventually the whole setup, to run closely along the inner fender near the plastic inner fender liner. While I could reach up from under the car into the fender, you may have to remove the inner fender liner to achieve access.

4. Attach the 6" rubber connection to the male end of E2. The other end is connected to the MAF using the blower supplied rubber tubing that is already on the MAF. This reduces the the 6" rubber connecting to match the MAF.

5. Attach K&N to MAF.

6. Take your factory MAF mounting bracket and mount it to the MAF upside down. When the elbows are swiveled into place, the bottom part of the bracket should be parallel with the inner fender liner. Once you have your placement correct, drill the appropriately sized hole in the plastic inner fender, and run a bolt through the relocated (backwards) MAF bracket and secure with a washer and nut.

7. Once you have the pieces "mocked up" and your placement is correct, mark the PVC elbows E1 and E2 so that you can reassemble them in the same position. Remove everything and cement all PVC connections using your markings to line the pieces up. Place the whole setup back up through the inner fender from underneath, and out the inner fender hole. Connect your blower's flexible tubing again, mount the MAF mounting bracket to the inner fender cover, and tighten. Your setup should now be very securely fastened. Mine will hardly even wiggle,

8. Now it is time to extend your MAF harness. This will be accomplished by by cutting the connector end off and splicing several inches of wire onto the harness. Cut the MAF connector off, making sure to leave several inches of wire on both the wiring harness and the connector.

9. Strip one inch of insulation from each wire. Put on a piece of shrink tubing on each wire on the harness and slide it out of the way.

10.Cut three equal lengths of different colored wire. These should be long enough to reach from the harness to the MAF's new location within the fender. Strip one inch of insulation from the end of each wire.

11. Solder the first colored wire onto one of the harness leads. Heat the first heat shrink tube around the new connection to weather proof it. Slide on another piece of heat shrink tubing.

12. Look at the harness wire's color pattern that the new extension is soldered to. Match the new extension to the same color wire on the connector. Solder the connection and then heat shrink the second piece of heat shrink tubing over the connection.

13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the remaining wires.

14. Use electrical tape to bind all the wires in the new extension together. This will protect them from being chafed against any metal and possibly shorting out.

15.Run the newly extended connector through the large oblong opening in the inner fender, and connect to the MAF.

Regarding the rotating of the MAF sensor. As long as the blower is designed to draw air through the MAF, as the standard Vortech/Powerdyne setups are, then it shouldn't matter as to the positioning of the meter. The top of my MAF (Black connection portion) is facing the outer fender on my setup, and my car idles like it did before the Vortech. In a blow through setup, such as with the ATI Procharger, placement is critical. Obviously this kit applies to the standard "draw-through" blowers.

Remember to mock up the whole setup before cementing any connections. The whole unit will swivel to allow you to align it properly inside the fender. SOLDER all MAF wiring! This is critical!

Good luck, and feel free to E Mail me with any questions!