Gutting the SOHC 80mm MAF
by modstang@usa.net
  This mod really works! There is a load of extra aluminum in this unit that just plain restricts the flow of air. This is a old 5.0 trick and it worked great on my 4.6L SOHC motor (I see no reason the Cobra's shouldn't benefit from the same mod) you'll notice snappy throttle response and a little more pull at the higher revs. It's a true seat-of-the-pants feel mod.

You'll save anywhere from $200-500 on a aftermarket MAF because you'll be creating what they sell, it's not magic.  Please note that if you are upgrading to larger injectors or a supercharger, you will need to re-calibrate professionally or purchase a re-calibrated unit.

Ford was generous enough to give us this large diameter MAF so lets put it to good use with that K&N filter you already own! You'll see larger HP gains with each modification after this particular modification.

TOOL LIST :

  •  Dremel tool (cordless or not - ask for one for Xmas ;)
  • a cutting bit (1/4" ball shaped tip)
  • a few grinding bits (for finish work)
  •  hacksaw (one of those small handle ones that the blade sticks out a few inches from)
  • T20 Tamper Proof Torx bit ($2.99 or less at most tool stores)
  • interchangeable bit screw driver (you'll be using that Torx bit with this)
  • 5/16" socket on a 1/4" ratchet.
  • 10mm open end wrench
  • some sand cloth (or paper, fine grit)
  •  

    The Grind! 
    1) Remove the negative side battery terminal (the computer will adjust to the increased air flow when you reboot in this way). You will need to keep it removed for about 2 hours to allow total re-boot of memory.

    2) Remove the bolt holding on the air box , remove the air filter and air box from the car. Disconnect the MAF sensor connector wire from the top of the MAF.  With the screwdriver loosen the hose clamp holding the MAF, pull the MAF from the car. You are now holding the complete MAF unit with it's plastic air box end piece, with screen, in your hands. 

    3) With the 10mm wrench remove the 4 nuts holding the end piece and screen onto the MAF, you are now holding just the MAF unit. (see first picture).

    4) Place the special Torx (Tamper Proof) bit in your screwdriver and remove the two screws holding down the sensor. CAREFULLY pull up on the sensor housing and remove it from the MAF, place it somewhere you won't hurt it!  You are now holding the aluminum 80mm MAF base unit.

    5) Remove the plate on the back side of the division that runs the length of the MAF (two Tamper Proof Torx screws hold it in place) you will no longer need this plate. 

    6) Bust out the hacksaw and Dremel tool, basically you want to remove the entire divider that is running from the sampling tube to the base of the MAF. DO NOT REMOVE THE SAMPLING TUBE, this is the small tube that runs along the roof inside of the MAF, the air that flows through this tube is read for temperature variations by the MAF sensors, you need this tube. everything else goes. You start by cutting out the largest portion of the divider with the mini hacksaw that you can. then with Dremel tool and the round cutter bit you grind away at the remaining aluminum that is leftover. use the other grinding bits and sandcloth you have to clean up the areas. When you are done, hold up the MAF in front of your face, all you want to see is that sampling tube attached to the roof the MAF, NOTHING else should be obstructing the air flow. 

    Go in reverse order and put the MAF back together again, drop it into your Stang and re-hook the battery. Take if for a spin, allow the computer to adjust, and you will notice a seat-of-the pants improvement!

    Good Luck! 

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