Additionally Baer, Saleen, and other companies have aftermarket braking kits with huge brakes, calipers, and price tags. Now SVO offers a system with equivalent performance at a fraction of the cost. This kit is known as the M-2300-K brake kit. It was first used in 1993 on Cobra R Mustangs and its production has continued through the 1996 model year as standard equipment on all Cobra Mustangs.

Pre-1994 platforms are somewhat lighter than the SN-95 platform thus they will get the most benefit. The M-2300-K kit comes with almost everything needed to bring your Mustang's stopping power within the super car range. The brakes themselves are composed of 13" front rotors with twin piston PBR calipers while the rears are made up of 11.65" rotor single piston calipers. The kit is a 5 lug kit so new rims are mandatory. 17" wheels are recommended because very few 16" rims will fit over the front calipers. Some people have ground down the front calipers to make a 16" rim fit, this is NOT recommended! This can weaken the front calipers and cause a catastrophic failure of your braking system!

You're looking at about 8 to 20 hours depending on how well things go. Get the parking brake handle and adjustable prop valve taken care of as soon as possible while people are working on other stuff. I had the parking brake cut and welded for $5 at a local shop.

I have had my kit on my 87 GT now for about 3 weeks and I LOVE it! It took about 5 days to get everything together and debugged but I think that's mostly because my friends and I hadn't ever done something like this before. Here's some of the tools you'll need that you may not have already:

• Torx 47 (I think)
• 36mm Socket
• Breaker Bar and a long pipe for torquing down the front hubs (>250ft/lbs)
• Torque Wrench (ours only went to 160ft/lbs so we had to make due one that goes to 280 ft/lbs might make torquing the front hubs a more accurate process)
• Line Wrenches (Standard not metric)
• Vice grip pliers in assorted shapes and sizes
• 5 lb hammer
• Die grinder or a REALLY big drill bit say 1/2" to 13/16"?
• Catch pans for gear oil and brake fluid (don't forget to recycle!)
• Floor jack
• Flare adapters for the adjustable proportioning valve, the ones that come with it are NOT correct, your kit may come with this problem corrected though.

• Lots of Brake fluid!
• Gear oil
• Ford Friction modifier
• Rear axle bearings if you think they need changing!

• You will need an alignment after this install is done, the car won't even be driveable without some adjustment. The new spindles cause some SERIOUS toe in such that if you straighten one wheel the other won't turn.
• You will need to "rework" (as Ford calls it) the driver's side strut tower. In other words bang the corner out with a hammer so you can get the brake booster in. You will need to put in at least a 1.5" dent covering a 4" x 6" area on the strut tower. This took me several hours until I figured out the proper technique then it was only a 30 minute process.
• You need to torque the front hub nuts down to 250ft/lbs+ of torque we accomplished this by torquing them to the limit of our wrench (160ft/lbs) then using a breaker bar and the handle from my jack we finished the job off.
• The brake booster is a PAIN to remove. It is way up under the dashboard you will need a couple of universal joints and some extensions. FYI it is held in by 4 14mm bolts.
• Check to make sure you have the proper fittings on your adjustable proportioning valve. The adapter sent with it on my kit had an inverted end and it needed the opposite, consequently it would not seal and kept leaking brake fluid no matter how hard you cranked the fittings. You may have to do some searching around to find the right ones.
• The parking brake handle needs to be modified. You will need to cut the spring, weld the pawl to the wratchet and cut the tab off of the adjusting assembly. It cost me $5 to have this done at a shop and it took all of 10 minutes for the guy to do.
• The yoke of the parking brake needs to be drilled out to about 11/16 (I think)
• You will need to drill or grind out the front hard line brackets as the brake hoses are larger than stock and won't fit in them without some drilling of the bracket.
• This will provide a good opportunity to replace your rear axle bearings if they need it.
• MAKE SURE THAT WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED NO BRAKE LINES ARE RUBBING THE RIMS OF THE CAR!!!! THIS WILL CAUSE A CATASTROPHIC BRAKE FAILURE, the voice of experience speaks.